Practice anchors install (w/ pictures!)
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Okay, I did a thing.
Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.
After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.




Some notes
- The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
- There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
- I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
- I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.
Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):
- Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
- Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
- 1" spade bit ($8.98)
- 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
- 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
- Free/on-hand items:
- Scrap wood (2x4)
- Power drill and drill bits
- Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
- Deck screws
- Total: $32.96 CAD
-
Okay, I did a thing.
Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.
After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.




Some notes
- The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
- There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
- I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
- I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.
Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):
- Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
- Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
- 1" spade bit ($8.98)
- 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
- 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
- Free/on-hand items:
- Scrap wood (2x4)
- Power drill and drill bits
- Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
- Deck screws
- Total: $32.96 CAD
@devnull I got that on my to-do-list… One day it actually might happen
I got inspired by the SkillzBoard https://skillzboard.com -
Okay, I did a thing.
Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.
After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.




Some notes
- The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
- There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
- I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
- I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.
Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):
- Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
- Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
- 1" spade bit ($8.98)
- 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
- 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
- Free/on-hand items:
- Scrap wood (2x4)
- Power drill and drill bits
- Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
- Deck screws
- Total: $32.96 CAD
@devnull I would recommend adding washers to those nuts to prevent them from digging into the wood over time, and 4 screws on the corners to prevent the board rocking when loaded/unloaded.
Not the typical reunion but I guess it works for simple practice.
I would tottally do something like that if I was allowed to in any case.
This is how it starts, and it ends with a climbable wall in the garage xD It's a matter of time.
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@devnull I would recommend adding washers to those nuts to prevent them from digging into the wood over time, and 4 screws on the corners to prevent the board rocking when loaded/unloaded.
Not the typical reunion but I guess it works for simple practice.
I would tottally do something like that if I was allowed to in any case.
This is how it starts, and it ends with a climbable wall in the garage xD It's a matter of time.
@rayko@mastodon.raykoworld.com ah that's good advice! Ironically the weakest part of this board is the actual attachment to the studs.
I need to buy longer screws and put four more. That'll be "super good enough" hopefully, as a certain someone says.
@bean no flex, although I also haven't fully weighted the board just yet. I've only practiced a top belay setup so far.
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@devnull I got that on my to-do-list… One day it actually might happen
I got inspired by the SkillzBoard https://skillzboard.comSkillzBoard
Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.
I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups

Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...
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SkillzBoard
Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.
I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups

Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...
-
SkillzBoard
Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.
I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups

Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...
@devnull Yeah, three is a must for me I think to get a grip on equalization and stuff. Not really sure I do need a board though. Might just put up three hangers on a beam in the basement.
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Today's faffery — Garda hitch shenanigans
Want a solution to a super contrived scenario whereby you have no belay device or HMS carabiner (for a munter hitch), but do have two non-locking carabiners and still want to haul something up with a makeshift progress capture device?

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Today's faffery — Garda hitch shenanigans
Want a solution to a super contrived scenario whereby you have no belay device or HMS carabiner (for a munter hitch), but do have two non-locking carabiners and still want to haul something up with a makeshift progress capture device?

@devnull
Funnily, #HowNot2 just shared a video a couple of days ago about tests he did with the #GardaHitch. -
@devnull
Funnily, #HowNot2 just shared a video a couple of days ago about tests he did with the #GardaHitch.@mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de indeed, that video is exactly why I even played around with it

So now one more esoteric tool in my quiver.
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