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General News

Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • A Climber We Lost: Kazuya Hiraide

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    climbingC
    Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community. https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-kazuya-hiraide/
  • Weekend Whipper: Big Ice Climbing Fall on… an Iceberg?

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    climbingC
    The setting was spectacular, the medium completely inappropriate for a fall. https://www.climbing.com/videos/weekend-whipper-big-ice-climbing-fall-on-an-iceberg/
  • The Fugitive is a Classic North Carolina 5.12d

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    GrippedG
    Watch a send of the steep route that has a big-move crux section The post The Fugitive is a Classic North Carolina 5.12d appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/the-fugitive-is-a-classic-north-carolina-5-12d/
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    climbingC
    From a climbable cave and a deep water soloing wall to a dog park, these climbing gyms and facilities go above and beyond. https://www.climbing.com/gym-climbing/7-unique-us-climbing-gym-amenities-facilities/
  • Fri Night Vid POSEIDON'S PLAYGROUND - Cornish Coastal Bouldering

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    UK ClimbingU
    This week's Friday Night Video takes us to the South-West, where Solly Kemball Dorey and Mikey Cleverdon help uncover the charm, and challenges, of Cornish coastal bouldering. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777993
  • Hamish McArthur’s Rowdy Flash of Fool Me Once V14

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    GrippedG
    A new film showcases the British climber's run through many of Squamish's hardest problems The post Hamish McArthur’s Rowdy Flash of Fool Me Once V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/hamish-mcarthurs-rowdy-flash-of-fool-me-once-v14/
  • 10 Hard Onsights and Flashes by Adam Ondra

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    GrippedG
    His history-making sends include the first-ever 5.15a flash and several 5.14+ onsights The post 10 Hard Onsights and Flashes by Adam Ondra appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/10-hard-onsights-and-flashes-by-adam-ondra/
  • 33 People Help Rescue Climber in Patagonia

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    GrippedG
    Fábio Selau was struck in the head by a rock, but was carried to safety during a successful rescue The post 33 People Help Rescue Climber in Patagonia appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/33-people-help-rescue-climber-in-patagonia/
  • Yosemite-Area Tribes Request Permission to Gather Plants

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    GrippedG
    Yosemite National Park is seeking the public's input and will be completing an environmental assessment The post Yosemite-Area Tribes Request Permission to Gather Plants appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/yosemite-area-tribes-request-permission-to-gather-plants/
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    climber-magazineC
    Alex Megos has ticked off the first ascent of a “long standing project” at Margalef climbing Tuareg Blanco (F9b/+) at the winter-sun sector, Raco de Espadelles. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/alex-megos-fires-off-tuareg-blanco-f9b-another-newbie-at-margalef/
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/standing-with-los-angeles-partners-supporting-the-community
  • Elias Iagnemma makes first ascent of The Big Slamm (Font 9A)

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    climber-magazineC
    Italian climber, Elias Iagnemma, has made the first ascent of Italy’s first Font 9A, The Big Slamm. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/elias-iagnemma-makes-first-ascent-of-the-big-slamm-font-9a/
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    GrippedG
    The climb was named in honour of Marc-André Leclerc by the first ascent team, which included Brette Harrington The post Second Ascent of Marc-André’s Visión on Torre Egger in Patagonia appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/second-ascent-of-marc-andres-vision-on-torre-egger-in-patagonia/
  • New Patagonia Granite Splitter Alpine Routes

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    GrippedG
    Good weather windows are resulting in several new routes throughout the region The post New Patagonia Granite Splitter Alpine Routes appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-patagonia-granite-splitter-alpine-routes/
  • Documentary on Cold Finland Mixed Cragging

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    GrippedG
    Samuli Pekkanen is the focus of an award-winning 2023 film called Send and Create, which just dropped online for free The post Documentary on Cold Finland Mixed Cragging appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/documentary-on-cold-finland-mixed-cragging/
  • The Future of an Iconic Australian Rock Climbing Is at Stake

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    climbingC
    The new film Save Arapiles Climbing calls upon global climbers to help https://www.climbing.com/news/australians-fight-to-avoid-losing-arapiles-climbing-area/
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    UK ClimbingU
    On the 3rd of December, Nathan Phillips made the first ascent of his hardest boulder to date,Deep Fake, 8C+. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777968
  • The Prescription—January

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    American Alpine ClubA
    It’s bouldering season in Hueco Tanks, Texas. While most consider bouldering relatively safe, it is perhaps the most accident- and injury-plagued facet of climbing. This month we bring you an accident that took place in 2024 on a famous John Sherman highball called See Spot Run.   This accident will be featured in the 2025 Accidents in North American Climbing. On January 22, I (Pete Korpics, 35) was attempting to climb a long-standing project of mine called See Spot Run (V6). I was well aware of the risks involved and that it would require ample padding.  During previous sessions, I had placed six or more pads in a wide area including the back of the fall zone. Six pads or more is ideal, but I was admittedly negligent on the day of the accident, as I felt I’d complete the route and was excited to do it. I also felt that the pad number and pad placement—five total and not as wide as prior attempts—was adequate, given the presence of two spotters. I felt very strong getting to the crux. After pulling through the crux, I got very pumped, lost momentum, and hesitated. We all know that moment when you feel uncertain about the next move. In those moments we tell ourselves, “Do it anyway.” Sometimes this works, but often it doesn’t. In this case, I fell.  I fell from roughly 15 feet up, with quite a bit of force. My spotters were hesitant to put their bodies in harm’s way. I had told them that, above the crux, staying clear was the best thing to do. Having two people injured is worse than one.  Due to the momentum of the fall and the poor pad placement, my left foot hit the rock and right foot hit the pad. I severely sprained my ankle. It was probably not helpful that it has in the past received the same injury.   Bouldering is inherently dangerous, and highball problems particularly so. Besides being a four-star John Sherman classic, See Spot Run is a notorious ankle breaker. It is 25 feet tall and described on Mountainproject.com as “one of the more notorious highball problems at Hueco.” During the same season that Korpics had his accident, other falls from the route caused multiple ankle sprains. Keep ‘Em On The Pad! On highballs, the impact forces of a falling climber can be equally hazardous to the spotter. The general rule for highballs (and all bouldering for that matter) is to ensure that the falling climber lands on the pads and stays on the pads after impact. Spotting might look less like controlling and guiding the fall, and more like giving the falling climber a shove to keep them on the pads. The spotter(s) should also protect the head and neck from striking bare ground, rocks, etc. Korpics wrote to ANAC: ”Preventable action would have included better pad placement and more pads. We could have used thinner pads to cover gaps between pads. This accident may also have been prevented by assertive spotting, and a strong shove from one of the spotters would have landed me on the pads. That possibility was negated because I had instructed my spotters to stand clear if I fell from above the crux. “Confidence should not lead to complacency,” he continued. “I’d been climbing a lot and climbing well, including numerous highballs prior to the accident, so I’d let my guard down. I do not blame the spotters, as I had given them specific instructions. I had placed the pads, I chose to climb despite knowing more pads would be better, and the injury was my fault.” (Sources: Pete Korpics, Mountainproject.com, and the Editors.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/1/14/the-prescriptionjanuary
  • The Future is Now: The Evolution of Alpine Climbing in China

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    GrippedG
    We look at some of the most legendary Chinese alpinists as Arc'teryx prepares to launch a new line of made-for-alpinists apparel The post The Future is Now: The Evolution of Alpine Climbing in China appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-future-is-now-the-evolution-of-alpine-climbing-in-china/
  • Newsflash Elias Iagnemma establishes new 9A boulder

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    UK ClimbingU
    Elias Iagnemma has made the first ascent of Big Slamm in Tintorale, Abruzzo, Southern Italy. He has proposed a grade of 9A/V17. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777963