Skip to content

Practice anchors install (w/ pictures!)

General Climbing
11 5 688 1
  • Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD
  • Sweet! Have you tested it at all yet? Do you see any flex of you try to hang from it?

    Another idea might be just a piece of 2x4 screwed lower to the ground to act as a foothold while you're "on" the anchors

  • Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD

    @devnull I got that on my to-do-list… One day it actually might happen 🤠 I got inspired by the SkillzBoard https://skillzboard.com

  • Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD

    @devnull I would recommend adding washers to those nuts to prevent them from digging into the wood over time, and 4 screws on the corners to prevent the board rocking when loaded/unloaded.

    Not the typical reunion but I guess it works for simple practice.

    I would tottally do something like that if I was allowed to in any case.

    This is how it starts, and it ends with a climbable wall in the garage xD It's a matter of time.

  • @devnull I would recommend adding washers to those nuts to prevent them from digging into the wood over time, and 4 screws on the corners to prevent the board rocking when loaded/unloaded.

    Not the typical reunion but I guess it works for simple practice.

    I would tottally do something like that if I was allowed to in any case.

    This is how it starts, and it ends with a climbable wall in the garage xD It's a matter of time.

    @rayko@mastodon.raykoworld.com ah that's good advice! Ironically the weakest part of this board is the actual attachment to the studs.

    I need to buy longer screws and put four more. That'll be "super good enough" hopefully, as a certain someone says.

    @bean no flex, although I also haven't fully weighted the board just yet. I've only practiced a top belay setup so far.

  • @devnull I got that on my to-do-list… One day it actually might happen 🤠 I got inspired by the SkillzBoard https://skillzboard.com

    @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

  • @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

    @devnull And so the scope creep begins hehe

  • @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

    @devnull Yeah, three is a must for me I think to get a grip on equalization and stuff. Not really sure I do need a board though. Might just put up three hangers on a beam in the basement.

  • Today's faffery — Garda hitch shenanigans

    Want a solution to a super contrived scenario whereby you have no belay device or HMS carabiner (for a munter hitch), but do have two non-locking carabiners and still want to haul something up with a makeshift progress capture device?

    1000004639.jpg

  • Today's faffery — Garda hitch shenanigans

    Want a solution to a super contrived scenario whereby you have no belay device or HMS carabiner (for a munter hitch), but do have two non-locking carabiners and still want to haul something up with a makeshift progress capture device?

    1000004639.jpg

    @devnull
    Funnily, #HowNot2 just shared a video a couple of days ago about tests he did with the #GardaHitch.

  • @devnull
    Funnily, #HowNot2 just shared a video a couple of days ago about tests he did with the #GardaHitch.

    @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de indeed, that video is exactly why I even played around with it 😁

    So now one more esoteric tool in my quiver.

Suggested topics


  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    7 Views
    Sander MeijerB
    Today is #InternationalMountainDay, where awareness is raised about the importance of mountains for sustainable development, water security, and biodiversity. The theme for 2025 focuses on the critical role of glaciers in providing water, food, and livelihoods for communities around the world.https://www.un.org/en/observances/mountain-day#Hiking #Climbing #Mountaineering #Mountains
  • Casino Lights

    Videos climbing hownot2
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    32 Views
    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5MBmybp748
  • The Prescription—Ground Fall

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    53 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    It’s Rocktober and across the continent climbers are sending their projects. This month we remind you that mishaps in “safe” genres like sport climbing can have serious consequences. This accident occurred in 2019 and was only reported this year. However, in the newly published 2025 ANAC, we feature several similar groundfall accidents. As you’ll also see below, we’re also featuring a human factors post-accident analysis that reveals some recurrent themes and behavior patterns. These are introduced in an article written by Dr. Valerie Karr. On June 22, 2019 B, a male climber was leading Where Egos Dare (5.12a) as a cool-down after a long session. The four-bolt route was easy enough to run a quick lap and as a result B, “didn't take it seriously and was climbing very arrogantly… without careful consideration of the consequences.” Besides being short and punchy, the route also has several hard clips that put the leader within groundfall range. B was, “…cooling down after a hard day of projecting. At the third bolt I pulled a bunch of slack to clip and my foot popped.” He had placed his foot carelessly on a bad part of the hold when it slipped. He had an arm full of slack and, “…decked straight on my butt.” He suffered lumbar compression fractures and fractured sacrum. “I was mere inches away from a shelf that, that had I impacted with my lumbar spine, I would've undoubtedly been paralyzed.” Though in serious pain, he, “walked out under my own steam. Likely due to adrenaline.” B fell approximately 15 feet. A pit/trough below Where Egos Dare created a ledge that one could hit in a fall. He had stick clipped the first bolt but, “Had I stick clipped the third, this accident wouldn't have happened. Back then I considered it ‘cheating’ to clip more than the first, which in retrospect is silly.” He adds, “Sport climbing is flippin’ dangerous! For all the sketchy gear routes I've done in my life it was a 35' tall 12a sport climb that nearly cost me the ability to walk. Unfortunately, I don't think most sport climbers have a clue about this.” Finally, the fallen climber said, “I’d add that one should climb more carefully. Because this route was well below my redpoint level I didn't take it seriously. Ultimately, I put my foot to the right of the actual foothold and that is what did me in. Luckily, I'm physically 100% now, but it was such a close call that I definitely have residual psychological effects. My wife still has trouble belaying me despite it not being her fault. I think the psychological impacts of such accidents cannot be overstated.” (Source: Anonymous Climber.) This groundfall is a classic case of risk normalization in which repeated exposure to hazards without consequence, lowers the perception of danger. Over time, shortcuts—clipping from poor stances, eschewing procedures like a higher stick clip, and a casual approach to moderate climbing—diminish the perceived hazards of consequential terrain. On the day of his accident, B admitted he was climbing “carelessly,” on a warm-down route that was well within his ability. Other distracting factors contributed to an atmosphere of informality and distractions at the base of the crag that compounded a sense of invulnerability. B’s narrative also reveals how cultural values within climbing can magnify risk through what he called the “purity ethics.”Beyond simple overconfidence, B acknowledged an internalized idea that stick clipping beyond the first bolt was “cheating.” This belief overrode pragmatic risk assessment. Only after his accident did he reframe those values, prioritizing safety over style with an understanding that it’s “all contrived anyway.” (Source: Dr. Valerie Karr.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/10/15/the-prescriptionground-fall
  • Alex Honnold Gets Bouldering Speed Record

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    111 Views
    GrippedG
    The world's most famous free-soloist gets a speed record on a tall problem called Plumber's Crack The post Alex Honnold Gets Bouldering Speed Record appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-gets-bouldering-speed-record/
  • How to get LESS Pumped on climbs...

    Videos climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    139 Views
    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ8CaE0s_vo
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    104 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    There are climbing partners, and there are the climbing partners. The partner you want to climb to the ends of the Earth and back with. The one you’d follow all the way to the moon. The one who eats, drinks, and breathes climbing. The climber who is not only skilled but also a student of… https://climbingzine.com/replacing-the-seamstress-corner-with-dave-marcinowski-by-luke-mehall/
  • Emma Twyford Ticks Another E9 Trad Route

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    96 Views
    GrippedG
    This is her fifth redpoint of the grade and a rare repeat of the run-out gear climb The post Emma Twyford Ticks Another E9 Trad Route appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/emma-twyford-ticks-another-e9-trad-route/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    161 Views
    UK ClimbingU
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=771687