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Practice anchors install (w/ pictures!)

General Climbing
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  • devnullD

    Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD
    martinsnyggM RaykoR 2 Replies
    1
    3
  • beanB

    Sweet! Have you tested it at all yet? Do you see any flex of you try to hang from it?

    Another idea might be just a piece of 2x4 screwed lower to the ground to act as a foothold while you're "on" the anchors

    1
  • devnullD devnull

    Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD
    martinsnyggM

    @devnull I got that on my to-do-list… One day it actually might happen 🤠 I got inspired by the SkillzBoard https://skillzboard.com

    devnullD 1 Reply
    1
  • devnullD devnull

    Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD
    RaykoR

    @devnull I would recommend adding washers to those nuts to prevent them from digging into the wood over time, and 4 screws on the corners to prevent the board rocking when loaded/unloaded.

    Not the typical reunion but I guess it works for simple practice.

    I would tottally do something like that if I was allowed to in any case.

    This is how it starts, and it ends with a climbable wall in the garage xD It's a matter of time.

    2
  • RaykoR Rayko

    @devnull I would recommend adding washers to those nuts to prevent them from digging into the wood over time, and 4 screws on the corners to prevent the board rocking when loaded/unloaded.

    Not the typical reunion but I guess it works for simple practice.

    I would tottally do something like that if I was allowed to in any case.

    This is how it starts, and it ends with a climbable wall in the garage xD It's a matter of time.

    devnullD

    @rayko@mastodon.raykoworld.com ah that's good advice! Ironically the weakest part of this board is the actual attachment to the studs.

    I need to buy longer screws and put four more. That'll be "super good enough" hopefully, as a certain someone says.

    @bean no flex, although I also haven't fully weighted the board just yet. I've only practiced a top belay setup so far.

    1
  • martinsnyggM martinsnygg

    @devnull I got that on my to-do-list… One day it actually might happen 🤠 I got inspired by the SkillzBoard https://skillzboard.com

    devnullD

    @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

    beanB martinsnyggM 2 Replies
    0
  • devnullD devnull

    @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

    beanB

    @devnull And so the scope creep begins hehe

    1
  • devnullD devnull

    @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

    martinsnyggM

    @devnull Yeah, three is a must for me I think to get a grip on equalization and stuff. Not really sure I do need a board though. Might just put up three hangers on a beam in the basement.

    0
  • devnullD

    Today's faffery — Garda hitch shenanigans

    Want a solution to a super contrived scenario whereby you have no belay device or HMS carabiner (for a munter hitch), but do have two non-locking carabiners and still want to haul something up with a makeshift progress capture device?

    1000004639.jpg

    1
  • devnullD devnull

    Today's faffery — Garda hitch shenanigans

    Want a solution to a super contrived scenario whereby you have no belay device or HMS carabiner (for a munter hitch), but do have two non-locking carabiners and still want to haul something up with a makeshift progress capture device?

    1000004639.jpg

    mkroehnertM

    @devnull
    Funnily, #HowNot2 just shared a video a couple of days ago about tests he did with the #GardaHitch.

    1
  • mkroehnertM mkroehnert

    @devnull
    Funnily, #HowNot2 just shared a video a couple of days ago about tests he did with the #GardaHitch.

    devnullD

    @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de indeed, that video is exactly why I even played around with it 😁

    So now one more esoteric tool in my quiver.

    1

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