-
Frequently Asked Questions, Community Guidelines, and more
-
Discussion about general climbing topics. A great place to talk about gear, technique, and the climbing community!
-
Discussion about the OpenBeta website, forums, and community
-
Share stories and pictures from your climbing trips!
-
News and media
Share or browse articles, videos, and news about climbing from around the web
-
Discussion about OpenBeta (and related projects) development
-
Continuous Ropes Course Safety - Choose Edelrid Smart Belay for advanced locking, easy operation, and guest confidence.
Continuous Ropes Course Safety - Choose Edelrid Smart Belay for advanced locking, easy operation, and guest confidence. Ready to enhance your course?
https://zurl.co/XZPRe #adventurepark #thrillride #safetyfirst #amusementpark #climbing
-
How Squamish made $25 million off climbing (and what that means for access)
One way to maintain climbing access? Show people the money. That's the approach places like Bishop, Red River Gorge, and, now, Squamish have taken.
The post How Squamish made $25 million off climbing (and what that means for access) appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
How Squamish made $25 million off climbing (and what that means for access) - Gripped Magazine
One way to maintain climbing access? Show people the money. That's the approach places like Bishop, Red River Gorge, and, now, Squamish have taken.
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
-
The Line—A Sensational Spire in Pakistan
One winner of a 2025 Cutting Edge Grant from the AAC was alpinist and photographer Tad McCrea, who, along with fellow American Jon Griffin and German climber Thomas Huber, traveled to the Karakoram for their second expedition to attempt two sensational peaks. The first part of Tad’s trip report is shared below. For the second half, you’ll have to wait for your 2026 American Alpine Journal, coming later this year.
Jon Griffin, Thomas Huber, and I had visited the Choktoi Glacier in 2024, our goals the west summit of Suma Brakk and the southeast pillar of Latok III. Initially, the weather was stunning, but as our preparation was beginning to pay off, we were hit by five weeks of wet and restless weather. Our objectives quickly became out of reach.
On July 14, 2025, the three of us reconvened in Skardu, in northern Pakistan. The approach this time to base camp, at around 4,400 meters on the east side of the glacier, was challenging due to hot weather and raging river crossings.
Then, five days into our stay at base camp, Thomas and I were called to assist in the attempted rescue of Laura Dahlmeier on Laila Peak. [The German athlete was a two-time Olympic biathlon champion and friend of Huber’s. She was retreating from the peak when she was hit by rockfall, fatally, around 5,700 meters]. Along with Americans Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau, who were on another expedition in Pakistan, we were airlifted to the peak, where we located her body from the air and realized any attempt to retrieve her would be futile. We hiked out to Hushe, then were helicoptered back to our Choktoi base camp on August 2.
Two days later, we made an acclimatization trip to 5,700 meters near Suma Brakk. At 12:30 a.m. on August 9, we set off from base camp for the climb.
Suma Brakk is a triple-summited peak that has been climbed at least a couple of times by different routes. [The first ascent of the central and highest summit (6,166m) was made in 2007 via the southern slopes and southeast ridge, by Americans Doug Chabot, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson. In 2018, Fabian Buhl and Alexander Huber—Thomas’s brother—completed the south ridge, with more than 56 pitches of climbing]. The west summit, which we dubbed Eye Ri (6,120m), was unclimbed. It appears as a spectacular needle when seen from the Choktoi side; moving around the peak to the west exposes a gash splitting the entire summit tower. There is a giant chockstone wedged 15 to 20 meters from the top that mimics Sauron's Eye.
We started up loose ribs and even looser rock gullies just left of a 300-meter icefall blocking access to a hanging glacier at the base of Eye Ri’s northwestern aspect. We had been here the year before, so we knew where to find the best path to the notch leading to the upper glacial basin. The climbing ranged from steep walking to scrambling. A hike up the glacier, then steep snow and névé with occasional stretches of ice and mixed (50°–75°), took us to the previous year's high point at 5,600 meters on the west ridge, between the first and second gendarmes. While I chopped out a site for the tent, Jon and Thomas took our two single ropes and a tag line and fixed three pitches to the top of the second gendarme.
The next day, we continued past three more gendarmes to a bivouac below the final tower. There were a few rock pitches up to 5.10+ on textured golden granite, and ice up to 80°, and we needed the full quiver of alpine tactics and trickery to get our under-acclimatized bodies up to 6,000 meters.
In the morning, we climbed three challenging pitches up the tower, utilizing 12 bolts for protection and anchors. Free climbing up to 5.11, we also employed a variety of aid tactics. At a bus-sized platform four meters below the top of the tower, we fixed lines and rappelled 85 meters to our camp.
On August 12th, we jugged our lines and did a short boulder problem to the summit, for what appears to be its first ascent. We laughed, danced, and cried a little as we soaked in the expansive vista, then descended all the way to our 5,600-meter camp, making at least 15 rap...
The Line—A Sensational Spire in Pakistan — American Alpine Club
One winner of a 2025 Cutting Edge Grant from the AAC was alpinist and photographer Tad McCrea, who, along with fellow American Jon Griffin and German climber Thomas Huber, traveled to the Karakoram for their second expedition to attempt two sensational peaks. The first part of Tad’s trip report is s
American Alpine Club (americanalpineclub.org)
-
The Epic Story Behind Antarctica’s Longest Rock Climb
The first ascent of the northeast ridge of Ulvetanna by a five-person team in 2013
The post The Epic Story Behind Antarctica’s Longest Rock Climb appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
The Epic Story Behind Antarctica’s Longest Rock Climb - Gripped Magazine
The first ascent of the northeast ridge of Ulvetanna by a five-person team in 2013
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
-
James and Ed by Luke Mehall
“He always called me James instead of Jimmie.” Jimmie Dunn told me these words each time I’ve had a conversation with him about his dear friend, the late Ed Webster, over these last few months. Jimmie has thousands of climbing stories and has climbed with hundreds of people, but it’s not hard to tell that…
-
A Look at the New Metolius Climber’s Edge Hangboard
The new Metolius Climbers Edge Training Board replaces their popular Wood Grips Compact and Deluxe boards
The post A Look at the New Metolius Climber’s Edge Hangboard appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
A Look at the New Metolius Climber's Edge Hangboard - Gripped Magazine
The new Metolius Climber's Edge Training Board replaces their popular Wood Grips Compact and Deluxe boards
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
-
Une dégaine neuve peut-elle casser à la première utilisation ?
Une dégaine neuve peut-elle casser à la première utilisation ?
Mise à jour avec la retour d'analyse de Simond : le mousqueton a bien cassé à cause d'un crochetage du nez : "la rupture est survenue avec le doigt en position ouverte, en crochetage sur la plaquette".
-
A new 5.11c, 5.12d and 5.13b/c developed atop Squamish’s iconic Cheakamus River
Two guides open up ‘The Enterprise’ near the ever-popular Star Chek route in Cheakamus Canyon.
The post A new 5.11c, 5.12d and 5.13b/c developed atop Squamish’s iconic Cheakamus River appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
A new 5.11c, 5.12d and 5.13b/c developed atop Squamish’s iconic Cheakamus River - Gripped Magazine
Two guides open up ‘The Enterprise’ near the ever-popular Star Chek route in Cheakamus Canyon.
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
-
Climbers Stranded for 10 Days in Epic 1960s Alpine Rescue
A multi-day rescue on the Petit Dru became one of mountaineering’s most legendary events
The post Climbers Stranded for 10 Days in Epic 1960s Alpine Rescue appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Climbers Stranded for 10 Days in Epic 1960s Alpine Rescue - Gripped Magazine
A multi-day rescue on the Petit Dru became one of mountaineering’s most legendary events
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
-
Michaela Kiersch Climbs an Adam Ondra 5.14c
Kiersch is on a tear – after establishing several problems on a bouldering trip to Oukaïmeden, Morocco, she has taken down a technical 5.14c in Arco
The post Michaela Kiersch Climbs an Adam Ondra 5.14c appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Michaela Kiersch Climbs an Adam Ondra 5.14c - Gripped Magazine
Kiersch is on a tear – after establishing several problems on a bouldering trip to Oukaïmeden, Morocco, she has taken down a technical 5.14c in Arco
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
-
New Technical Alpine Mixed Climb on Famous Alps Peak
Mutant is a 520-metre M8 that climbs corners and slabs before entering an upper gully on Petites Jorasses
The post New Technical Alpine Mixed Climb on Famous Alps Peak appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
New Technical Alpine Mixed Climb on Famous Alps Peak - Gripped Magazine
Mutant is a 520-metre M8 that climbs corners and slabs before entering an upper gully on Petites Jorasses
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
-
Roseberry ToppingRoseberry Topping
Yesterday G and I took Lindy to the North York Moors National Park for her first big climb. It started out a bit chilly which helped get us up the 200 metre elevation and the views were as worth it as I’d remembered. Our first visit in 9 years, which felt very strange - it was the first hike G took me on 16 years ago and now we’ve introduced our fur child to Roseberry Topping!
#outdoors #climbing #hiking
-
Jorge Díaz-Rullo Proposes 5.15d for Café Colombia
The mega route took the highly accomplished sport climber nearly 250 days of projecting to complete the first ascent
The post Jorge Díaz-Rullo Proposes 5.15d for Café Colombia appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo Proposes 5.15d for Café Colombia - Gripped Magazine
The mega route took the highly accomplished sport climber nearly 250 days of projecting to complete the first ascent
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
Welcome to the OpenBeta Forums!
Our goal is to provide a friendly, welcoming, helpful online community of people passionate about climbing. Remember to follow the Community Guidelines, and have fun!