OpenBeta Forums

Buenos días. Ayer escalamos la Cresta Urquiza Olmo en Montrebei con 600 m. de recorrido y una dificultad máxima de 6a. Escalada de aventura en uno de los entornos más impresionantes del Prepirineo....
#escalada #climbing #montaña #alpinismo #huesca #montrebei

The feat is no big deal for Garnbret who has her sights on bigger projects in Switzerland
The post Janja Garnbret Climbs Three V13s in a Session appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

Adam Ondra is the third climber to flash the grade this year
The post Adam Ondra Flashes V15 in Switzerland appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

This is the second ascent of the Switzerland boulder, which is one of the hardest ever climbed
The post Sean Bailey Repeats Arrival of the Birds V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

This month we feature an accident that occurred in 2024 on Yosemite’s Manure Pile Buttress when a climber mistied a knot. You can reference this accident in this years Accidents in North American Climbing (page 46). The knot involved was bulky and involved multiple strands of webbing, brought together to tie a single anchor loop. The average climber only needs to know several simple knots but sometimes, even experts can get it wrong. This climber was lucky and escaped with minor injuries.
On June 24, 2024 during the American Alpine Club’s United in Yosemite Climbing Festival, a climber led the first pitch of After Six (5.7). At the belay tree, they set up a lowering anchor using a knot on a quad-length sling with two locking carabiners. The climber weighted the rope and lowered. He cleaned the top piece of gear (a camming device). Below, a second cam proved too tight to remove so he unclipped it. The climber continued to lower. At the third piece from the top, the anchor knot failed. The climber fell 80 feet before the belayer caught his fall, when the climber was about five feet above the ground. The climber was lowered and SAR was called. His injuries included a sprained ankle, lacerations on the face, a broken nose, and rope burns on the hands and fingers. 
A slipknot looks deceptively like other knots you'd use in a climbing anchor, but when you actually load it, it's not going to hold much at all. Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and IFMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin, are back to explain how a slipknot can have serious consequences when used in climbing anchors.
Credits: Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing; IFMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin; Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney; Editor: Sierra McGivney; Location: Accessibility Crag, Clear Creek, CO.
The climber was fortunate that he had high protection that stopped him from hitting the ground when the anchor failed and lots of slack was introduced into the belay system. The anchor sling was found with an intact overhand knot. The belayer, who wishes to remain anonymous, wrote to ANAC: “We believe it was an attempted overhand knot but it was actually a slipknot.” The still-locked masterpoint carabiners were found clipped to the rope by the fallen climber. 
*Editor’s Note: After analysis, it was determined that the climber had attempted to tie an overhand knot but failed to pull the two end strands completely through the knot. He then clipped the two locking carabiners through the unsecured loops. Since there were so many strands of webbing in the mix, it was hard to tell the difference between a fixed loop and a slip loop. When weighted, the slip loops had sufficient friction and compression to hold, if only momentarily, while the ends gradually crept toward release.

(Sources: Anonymous and ANAC Canada Editor Robert Chisnall.)

---

---

Italian climber Pietro Vidi has repeated the cutting-edge trad-climb Meltdown (5.14c/F8c+) in Yosemite Valley, USA.

---

The 22-year-old Italian climber continues to make rare repeats of the hardest trad climbs in the world
The post Pietro Vidi Sends Meltdown 5.14c Trad in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

Hello all,

When not climbing, I work in sound design and sound studies at Edinburgh Napier University. We are conducting surveys on the soundscape and its perception while climbing.

I would appreciate it very much if you could complete this survey: https://survey.napier.ac.uk/n/ClimbingSuoundsape.aspx

Best,
Balandino.

In 1944, 500 soldiers trained in the town of Jasper before helping to defeat fascism in the Second World War
The post Remembering Canada’s Mountain Warfare Role in WWII appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

After making such quick work on the crimp problem, he believes it might be deserve a downgrade to V15
The post Nicolai Užnik Tops a Will Bosi V16 in an Hour appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

For over 20 years, he was one of the world's best big wall climbers
The post Piolet d’Or 2025 Lifetime Achievement Award for Alexander Odintsov appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

Thirty Below: The Harrowing and Heroic Story of the First All-Women's Ascent of Denali by Cassidy Randall takes home grand prize at Banff Book Festival
The post First All-Women’s Ascent of Denali Wins Book Award appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

---

The night was cold, and where the moon and stars shone around patches of clouds, they were incredibly bright. There was no ambient light out here. I was standing on a half-finished patio attached to a half-finished house in an otherwise empty summer-herding village. It was early March, months before the village would be occupied.…

---

He adds the Kentucky route to his long list of first-go ascents
The post Alex Megos Onsights 5.14b at the Red River Gorge appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---

Strong and delicate positions simultaneously, here #climbing

Sur le mur #climbing #escalade

A much delayed continuation of roadtrip climbing posts. Climbing stop 4 was a lovely week of bouldering outside Leavenworth

#climbing
#bouldering

He announced the send with a new video that you can watch below
The post Adam Ondra Flashes 5.14a Trad with Greenspit appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

---