Skip to content

Practice anchors install (w/ pictures!)

General Climbing
11 5 928 1
  • Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD
  • Sweet! Have you tested it at all yet? Do you see any flex of you try to hang from it?

    Another idea might be just a piece of 2x4 screwed lower to the ground to act as a foothold while you're "on" the anchors

  • Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD

    @devnull I got that on my to-do-list… One day it actually might happen 🤠 I got inspired by the SkillzBoard https://skillzboard.com

  • Okay, I did a thing.

    Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage.

    After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result.

    PXL_20240822_143020828.jpg

    PXL_20240822_194756349.jpg

    PXL_20240822_204026195.MP.jpg

    PXL_20240823_021253567.jpg

    Some notes

    • The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush.
    • There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect!
    • I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once!
    • I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches.

    Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars):

    • Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece)
    • Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece)
    • 1" spade bit ($8.98)
    • 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece)
    • 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece)
    • Free/on-hand items:
      • Scrap wood (2x4)
      • Power drill and drill bits
      • Adjustable wrench and socket wrench
      • Deck screws
    • Total: $32.96 CAD

    @devnull I would recommend adding washers to those nuts to prevent them from digging into the wood over time, and 4 screws on the corners to prevent the board rocking when loaded/unloaded.

    Not the typical reunion but I guess it works for simple practice.

    I would tottally do something like that if I was allowed to in any case.

    This is how it starts, and it ends with a climbable wall in the garage xD It's a matter of time.

  • @devnull I would recommend adding washers to those nuts to prevent them from digging into the wood over time, and 4 screws on the corners to prevent the board rocking when loaded/unloaded.

    Not the typical reunion but I guess it works for simple practice.

    I would tottally do something like that if I was allowed to in any case.

    This is how it starts, and it ends with a climbable wall in the garage xD It's a matter of time.

    @rayko@mastodon.raykoworld.com ah that's good advice! Ironically the weakest part of this board is the actual attachment to the studs.

    I need to buy longer screws and put four more. That'll be "super good enough" hopefully, as a certain someone says.

    @bean no flex, although I also haven't fully weighted the board just yet. I've only practiced a top belay setup so far.

  • @devnull I got that on my to-do-list… One day it actually might happen 🤠 I got inspired by the SkillzBoard https://skillzboard.com

    @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

  • @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

    @devnull And so the scope creep begins hehe

  • @martinsnygg@infosec.exchange

    SkillzBoard

    Ha! Yeah I did see this before too. It was probably also where the idea first took hold in my head.

    I put in two hangers but I think eventually I'll have to add a third when testing more esoteric three-piece setups 😬

    Maybe I'll build a little crack to hold a cam...

    @devnull Yeah, three is a must for me I think to get a grip on equalization and stuff. Not really sure I do need a board though. Might just put up three hangers on a beam in the basement.

  • Today's faffery — Garda hitch shenanigans

    Want a solution to a super contrived scenario whereby you have no belay device or HMS carabiner (for a munter hitch), but do have two non-locking carabiners and still want to haul something up with a makeshift progress capture device?

    1000004639.jpg

  • Today's faffery — Garda hitch shenanigans

    Want a solution to a super contrived scenario whereby you have no belay device or HMS carabiner (for a munter hitch), but do have two non-locking carabiners and still want to haul something up with a makeshift progress capture device?

    1000004639.jpg

    @devnull
    Funnily, #HowNot2 just shared a video a couple of days ago about tests he did with the #GardaHitch.

  • @devnull
    Funnily, #HowNot2 just shared a video a couple of days ago about tests he did with the #GardaHitch.

    @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de indeed, that video is exactly why I even played around with it 😁

    So now one more esoteric tool in my quiver.

Suggested topics


  • The Prescription—Ground Fall

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    43 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    It’s February, and yours truly is bouldering in sunny Hueco Tanks, Texas. I was reminded a few weeks ago that all climbing is not without risk, when a close friend fractured his ankle bouldering in the park and had to be extracted by SAR. The situation was compounded when a rescuer fell off the low-fifth-class approach and also required extraction. This accident, like the one featured below, happened despite the fact that everyone was playing by the book. In the accident below, two apparently textbook cam placements failed when the leader applied body weight to the top cam on a lead of a slippery granite crack. More serious injury was prevented because the climbers in question had built a solid belay anchor on the ledge below, and the leader and the belayer were both wearing helmets. Still, this is a case in point that you can do everything right and still end up in the hospital.  On May 18, 2024, at about 10:40 a.m., my climbing partner and I prepared to climb Gallwas Crack (5.9) at the Main Wall of Mission Gorge in San Diego. Another friend was with us for his first outdoor climbing session. The three of us had already warmed up. Access involved scrambling eight feet up to a large, flat ledge, then up and over to another ledge at the base of the route. This ledge was big enough to not worry about falling off, but there was a risk of the belayer getting pulled off if the leader fell before placing any gear. We all wore helmets and were very safety focused. The ledge was 40 feet above the trail. We built a three-piece gear anchor to secure the belayer (me), and our other friend sat untethered on the large ledge below and left. Gallwas Crack looked challenging, with slippery rock, but my climbing partner had led higher-rated climbs at similar areas, so I thought it would be possible, though perhaps at his limit. There appeared to be plentiful gear placements. He racked up and we did thorough safety checks. He got up a short fourth-class ramp to a secure stance and put in a No. 0.5 Camalot, clipped with an alpine draw. He climbed to where his feet were level with the first cam and placed another, then climbed to where the second cam was at his waist and placed a third cam. When the third cam was at his waist, he paused to figure out the move, then yelled, “Take! Take! Take!” I pulled in a couple of arm lengths of slack as fast as I could. The rope started becoming taut just before he fell, but it never became completely tight during the fall. I did not get pulled toward the wall as one would expect. The highest (third) piece pulled immediately, and he continued falling. The second piece also pulled as he rotated backward and began falling headfirst. The first piece caught him. I don’t remember being pulled by the rope despite the fact that he fell 30 feet total, past the ledge, and ended hanging upside down, about 30 feet above the trail. He was not moving. Our other friend yelled, “He’s bleeding out of his right ear.” I can't recall the sequence, but someone yelled to ask if they should call 911. I asked our other friend to attend, since he had emergency medical training. I slowly lowered my partner as he was pulled over to the large ledge. As I was lowering, his body shook for a few seconds. On the flat ledge, he had a pulse and breathing was heavy. I called 911 at 10:56 a.m. and learned that someone else had already called in. I clipped my climbing partner into the anchor so I could be freed up to help. I held his head, and he’d periodically sit up and moan, then lie back. We tried to keep him down, and he would tell us to stop touching him. A woman with emergency medical training came over and did a good job helping us all stay calm. She confirmed that my climbing partner could respond to his name, by turning his head. A helicopter arrived, lowering a paramedic with a radio and litter, who assessed his condition. The paramedic tried to place a neck brace, but my climbing partner refused it. When we got the brace on, he immediately took it off. Eventually, he was put on a litter and flown to a trauma center. It was less than an hour after he’d started the climb. One of the pieces that pulled was a No. 3... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/2/10/the-prescriptionground-fall
  • 0 Votes
    2 Posts
    62 Views
    pkufeldtP
    Smiling at a rappel anchor point from long ago on Matthes Crest. Nearly 60m from the bottom, making it a double rope rappel. #climbing
  • Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 5)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    169 Views
    AlpineSavvyA
    Five more quick tips on best practices. This post covers: 1) When to untie your rappel stopper knot, 2) the proper direction for a Grigri when belaying from the anchor, 3) how not to carry your satcom device, 4) how to shorten a sewn loop daisy chain, and 5) why to keep your anchor low on a tree. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-5
  • 2 Votes
    1 Posts
    169 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    It’s that time of year again–the AAC has invited the editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, Pete Takeda, to hop on the pod to chat about emerging trends in climbing accidents. This year, we’re also delighted to have a conversation with Dr. Valerie Karr, a professor at UMASS who has stepped in to help us with a massive data analysis project. Valerie used grounded theory analysis to parse through 20 years of accidents data—picking out patterns in how human behavior contributes to accidents. We discuss some examples like risk normalization, the mentor trap, and attitudes around fixed gear. Dive into the podcast to hear about her findings and learn more about the case studies that stuck out to the editors this year. Get the 2025 Accidents Book—Join the AAC or Renew Learn More about Dr. Valerie Karr https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/6/17/2025-climbing-accident-trends-what-the-data-tells-us
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    154 Views
    John DalJ
    As a youngster I was addicted to hills/mountains/rock climbing. I've only got 1 photo of me climbing from those days, we rarely took a camera. It was so hard getting to a crag that you climbed in rubbish condtions to avoid wasting a weekend. The shot is of me on P1 of Praying Mantis in Borrowdale on a damp grimy day, 1967ish, doing it wrongly of course. The mantra at the time was "the leader never falls" and you can see why! It's (usually) a bit safer these days. #Climbing #LakeDistrict
  • 4.20.99 to Infinity by Luke Mehall

    General News climbing climbingzine
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    142 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    It’s rare to be told by an editor that you can write whatever you want, but that’s how this essay got started.  Since the seed was planted, the publication with said editor didn’t come to fruition, but I wrote out this piece, and I want to share it.  by Luke Mehall, publisher of The Climbing… https://climbingzine.com/4-20-99-to-infinity-by-luke-mehall/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    184 Views
    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssC9YVp8Mvo
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    166 Views
    Access FundA
    Access Fund, a founding member of Outdoor Alliance, is an advocacy powerhouse and has protected rock climbing access and public lands across the country since its founding. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/climbing-advocacy-with-access-fund-and-outdoor-alliance