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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • Fri Night Vid Designed by Disaster

    climbing 9 days ago
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    This week's Friday Night Video is a deeply personal and inspiring story about Danny Giovale, a passionate climber who faces a life-changing ordeal in the Dolomites. Danny is propelled to invent a revolutionary type of crampon, addressing a critical safety gap in mountain travel. This invention not only transforms the outdoor industry but also... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779777
  • New 13-Pitch 5.12 Climbed in Patagonia North

    climbing 9 days ago
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    Caro North, Fay Manners and Julia Cassou spent several weeks established the remote big wall route The post New 13-Pitch 5.12 Climbed in Patagonia North appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-13-pitch-5-12-climbed-in-patagonia-north/
  • Eight Boulders to V15 by Brooke Raboutou

    climbing 9 days ago
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    Watch the Olympic silver medallist climb some of her hardest problems to date The post Eight Boulders to V15 by Brooke Raboutou appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/eight-boulders-to-v15-by-brooke-raboutou/
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Neanderthal 5.15b

    climbing 9 days ago
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    This is his third 5.15b during his current trip to Spain, and he plans to climb one more The post Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Neanderthal 5.15b appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/stefano-ghisolfi-sends-neanderthal-5-15b/
  • Five Tips for Early Crag Climbing Season

    climbing 9 days ago
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    Being prepared will help you get the most out of your day at the crag The post Five Tips for Early Crag Climbing Season appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/five-tips-for-early-crag-climbing-season/
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    The Climbing Works International Festival kicks off tomorrow morning, and there's a stacked schedule across the weekend! https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779767
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    'It was the lack of obvious areas for development that made it engaging'- Billy Ridal talks about climbing his longest project to date, The Big Island, 8C. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779766
  • Nina Arthaud Sends a V14 Bishop Highball

    climbing 9 days ago
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    It's the French climber's second ascent of the grade The post Nina Arthaud Sends a V14 Bishop Highball appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/nina-arthaud-sends-a-v14-bishop-highball/
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    A prominent trend in international climbing is the rise of local climbing communities and cultures around the world, not least in Nepal. As documented in Bernadette McDonald’s award-winning Alpine Rising book, Sherpas and other Nepali climbers, who long worked in the mountains only as skilled employees, now guide their own paying clients and, increasingly, go climbing for fun, with impressive results—the 2021 first winter ascent of K2 being the most dramatic example. The 2025 AAJ will have our biggest Nepal section in many years—at least 38 pages of new routes and exploration—and one reason is the number of Nepali climbers exploring their local mountains, from the first ascent of 6,750-meter Khumjungar to success on the huge south-southwest ridge of Cho Oyu after more than 40 years of attempts. Here, we’re sharing the story of a Nepali expedition to the remote and wild Kanjiroba Himal: Three 8,000-meter guides went on a post-work holiday adventure and succeeded on the first ascent of a 6,500-meter peak. In the premonsoon season of 2024, Nepali guides Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa worked commercial expeditions to 8,000-meter peaks. After returning to Kathmandu, they enjoyed only a few days of rest before heading to Jumla in West Nepal, arriving on June 4. They were perfectly acclimatized for the adventure ahead: the first ascent of the highest summit of the Patrasi group, situated on the western rim of the Kanjiroba Sanctuary, a trip partially sponsored by the Mount Everest Foundation. None of the climbers had previously trekked or climbed in the area.      Along with four helpers from Kathmandu, the team drove to Pere (2,700m) on June 5. Adding a local guide and three porters, they then walked four hard days via the Chaudhabise Valley to a base camp at 5,050 meters below the west side of the Patrasi group. Day three involved crossing the Tang Tang Pass (4,950m) and descending to an overnight camp at 4,100 meters in the Changda Valley, where they met an encampment of local people gathering yarsagumba (caterpillar fungus) for traditional Tibetan and Chinese medicine. At 8 a.m. on the 10th, they began their ascent of Patrasi. They first climbed a 200-meter snow couloir to reach the northwest ridge of Patrasi II (6,471m). After climbing 11 belayed pitches with rock to French 5a (around 5.8), and simul-climbing other sections, they reached 5,700 meters, where they were able to fashion a partial tent site. For safety, they slept that night in their harnesses. The following morning, they left at 5 a.m. After another 11 pitches (up to M4) and a little simul-climbing, they arrived at 6,000 meters, where they decided to pitch their second camp at around 4 p.m. The climbing had been quite challenging, in cold and windy conditions with intermittent snow showers. The rock was poor, and there were many places where protection points were 10 to 15 meters apart. At 4 a.m. on June 12, the three set out for a long summit push. Following the corniced ridge, then crossing a section of hard blue WI3, they reached the top of Patrasi II, descended a little to a snow slope, then headed up onto the left flank of the northeast ridge of Patrasi I. They reached the 6,521-meter summit at 4:35 p.m. in cloudy weather. The descent was long and tiring, with their muscles cramping toward the end of the day. Downclimbing and 15 long rappels (they climbed on 70-meter ropes) took them back to the 6,000-meter camp. It was 9:30 p.m., and they didn’t bother to cook, instead falling asleep very quickly. On the 13th, it took the trio almost 11 hours to descend all the way to base camp. By the 17th, they were back in Jumla. All equipment and nondegradable waste was packed out, and they left only five snow stakes, 10 pitons, and some cord on the mountain. Commenting on the trip, Pasang Kami Sherpa said, “This expedition added an interesting chapter to my mountaineering journey. It was in stark contrast to my experience on 8,000m peaks, where fixed rope, oxygen, well-stocked camps, and support systems are the norm. Here, we were on our own, a small team carrying only essential things, making our own decisions, and adapting to whatever ... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/16/the-line-nepali-climbers-on-nepals-mountains
  • Rare Ascent of a Japanese V16

    climbing 10 days ago
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    Daisuke Ichimiya had a smooth third ascent of Ryuichi Murai's United V16 The post Rare Ascent of a Japanese V16 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/rare-ascent-of-a-japanese-v16/
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    Over November 5 to 7, the duo climbed this iconic and rarely repeated route. We spoke with Connor Herson to learn more The post November 2024: Herson and Caldwell Free El Cap’s Heart Route appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/november-2024-herson-and-caldwell-free-el-caps-heart-route/
  • Lara Neumeier Climbs 5.14R Trad in Austria

    climbing 11 days ago
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    The top gear climber sent us some thoughts about the bold trad route The post Lara Neumeier Climbs 5.14R Trad in Austria appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/lara-neumeier-climbs-5-14r-trad-in-austria/
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    Hervé Barmasse has become the first person to complete a solo winter traverse and integral link-up of all the main peaks of the Gran Sasso of Italy Massif. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/herve-barmasse-makes-first-full-winter-traverse-of-gran-sasso-massif/
  • Rockfall Closes Busy Yosemite Road Indefinitely

    climbing 11 days ago
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    The road from El Portal into the Valley, Route 140, is closed for the foreseeable future The post Rockfall Closes Busy Yosemite Road Indefinitely appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/rockfall-closes-busy-yosemite-road-indefinitely/
  • Sonnie Trotter on a Skaha 5.14 First Ascent

    climbing 11 days ago
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    A new video from a 2018 first ascent in Skaha was just released The post Sonnie Trotter on a Skaha 5.14 First Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/sonnie-trotter-on-a-skaha-5-14-first-ascent/
  • Shauna Coxsey Climbing Mito V14

    climbing 12 days ago
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    The Jun Shibanuma problem in Portugal was Coxsey's fifth of the grade The post Shauna Coxsey Climbing Mito V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/shauna-coxsey-climbing-mito-v14/
  • 2025 USA National Team Announced

    climbing 12 days ago
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    Here are the climbers that will represent the United States on the World Cup circuit this year The post 2025 USA National Team Announced appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/2025-usa-national-team-announced/
  • Five Canadian Alpine Ridges to Climb in 2025

    climbing 12 days ago
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    Trying to climb all of these in one summer would make for a fun objective The post Five Canadian Alpine Ridges to Climb in 2025 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/five-canadian-alpine-ridges-to-climb-in-2025/
  • Matt Fultz Has Climbed His Ninth V16

    climbing 12 days ago
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    This is the second ascent of the burly problem established by Nathan Philips The post Matt Fultz Has Climbed His Ninth V16 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/matt-fultz-has-climbed-his-ninth-v16/
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    Belgian boulder-ace Simon Lorenzi has repeated Daniel Wood’s Return of the Sleepwalker in Red Rocks, USA. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/simon-lorenzi-makes-fourth-ascent-of-return-of-the-sleepwalker-font-9a/