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Climbing News from assorted publications

This category can be followed from the open social web via the handle news@community.openbeta.io

2.4k Topics 2.4k Posts
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    Being able to see in real time on your phone if you’re on public lands or not is helpful for all kinds of things, especially finding free dispersed camping spots. Here’s how to use some modern mapping tools like Caltopo and Gaia GPS to do this. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/find-free-camping-on-public-lands-with-these-mapping-tools
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    A 5.14c onsight and a 5.15a redpoint were just a few of the highlights The post Laura Rogora’s Gorges du Loup Ticklist is Mind-blowing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/laura-rogoras-gorges-du-loup-ticklist-is-mind-blowing/
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    Being able to see in real time on your phone if you’re on public lands or not is helpful for all kinds of things, especially finding free dispersed camping spots. Here’s how to use some modern mapping tools like Caltopo and Gaia GPS to do this. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-find-public-lands-with-map-software/apps1
  • Will Bosi’s FA of a Drop-Off V17

    climbing 10 days ago
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    Originally known as the Burden of Nightmares project, Realm of Tor'ment was Bosi's longest project to date The post Will Bosi’s FA of a Drop-Off V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/will-bosis-fa-of-a-drop-off-v17/
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    Note: this poem is published in Volume 24, now available  Banner photo: Becky Zunigar climbing Manifestación del Yang, a 5.12+ located in the Sierra de Juarez, Mexico. Photo by Oscar Gaytan   I first went climbing When I had nothing else Back in ’98 When Eminem’s rage Was all the rage   Tied in to… https://climbingzine.com/the-knot-of-infinity-a-poem-by-luke-mehall/
  • Where Does the Term “Redpoint” Come From?

    climbing 11 days ago
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    Redpointing is the backbone of modern sport climbing – here's how it got its name The post Where Does the Term “Redpoint” Come From? appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/where-does-the-term-redpoint-come-from/
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    Following in the steps of his heroes, Brad Gobright, Matt Wilder and Hayden Kennedy, 19-year-old William Moss takes on some of the boldest and hardest trad climbs in the U.S., including Cheating Reality (5.14a), Kokanee Corner (5.14a), and Smart Went Crazy (5.13+). https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=783472
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    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/staff-spotlight-katie-goodwin-western-regional-director-amp-policy-analyst
  • New Alpine Club of Canada Section in Ontario

    climbing 12 days ago
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    Climbers and other backcountry enthusiasts in Sault Ste. Marie are celebrating the expansion of the club into the region The post New Alpine Club of Canada Section in Ontario appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/new-alpine-club-of-canada-section-in-ontario/
  • Overcome Your Fear of Falling Off Boulders

    climbing 12 days ago
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    A new video from Dave MacLeod gives great insight on how to boulder safely The post Overcome Your Fear of Falling Off Boulders appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/overcome-your-fear-of-falling-off-boulders/
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    In this episode of the podcast, we are celebrating the recipient of the AAC’s 2025 David Brower Conservation Award: Outdoor Alliance. Outdoor Alliance is the only organization in the U.S. that unites the voices of outdoor enthusiasts to conserve public lands and waters. OA advocates and amplifies the voices of recreationists to help ensure those lands are managed in a way that embraces the human-powered experience. Over the last 10 years, Outdoor Alliance has been instrumental in helping pass the EXPLORE Act in 2024, and they are receiving the Brower award for their work on passing this instrumental recreation bill. Dive in to the episode to hear about the origins of Outdoor Alliance and the power behind their methods and perspectives, featuring Outdoor Alliance CEO Adam Cramer, and the AAC’s Policy Director Byron Harvison. Learn More About Outdoor Alliance Take Action with Outdoor Alliance Learn About the OA Member Organizations https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/7/31/outdoor-alliance-roping-up-for-recreation-advocacy
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    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/countdown-to-save-oak-flat-august-19th-land-transfer-looms
  • New Free Online Maps for Backcountry Users

    climbing 12 days ago
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    These maps can be integrated with GPS devices or mobile apps, providing real-time navigation in the field The post New Free Online Maps for Backcountry Users appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-free-online-maps-for-backcountry-users/
  • Daniel Woods on Projecting Alphane V17

    climbing 12 days ago
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    The top American climber recently dropped a new video detailing his journey on the hard boulder The post Daniel Woods on Projecting Alphane V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/daniel-woods-on-projecting-alphane-v17/
  • Staggering Number of Deaths in Italian Alps

    climbing 13 days ago
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    Over 80 backcountry users have already died in the Italian Alps this summer The post Staggering Number of Deaths in Italian Alps appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/staggering-number-of-deaths-in-italian-alps/
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    Italian Lead ace, Laura Rogora, takes women’s onsight climbing to a new level with Ultimate Sacrifice, a renowned long and pumpy F8c+ in Gorge du Loup, France. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/laura-rogora-drives-up-women-s-onsight-level-with-ultimate-sacrifice-f8c/
  • Jo Neame climbs True North, 8c

    climbing 13 days ago
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    Jo climbed Full Tilt back in 2023 on her fourth redpoint attempt, and began looking at True North shortly after. However, the journey to True North was bumpier than expected. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=783437
  • First female 8c+ onsight for Laura Rogora

    climbing 13 days ago
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    Laura Rogora has made the first female onsight of an 8c+ route, with her ascent of Ultimate Sacrifice (8c+) at Gorges du Loup in Southeastern France. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=783432
  • The Prescription—Fall on Rock

    climbing 13 days ago
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    This July, we look back at an accident in 2019. A climber took a serious lead fall while clipping the third bolt on a popular sport route in North Carolina called Chicken Bone (5.8). This climber made a fairly common error when his rope crossed behind his leg while climbing. This oversight resulted in serious injury from what should have been a routine fall.     During the afternoon of May 6, Ranger J. Anderson received a call reporting a fallen climber. When Anderson found the patient, Matthew Starkey, he was walking out, holding a shirt on the right side of his head and covered in blood. However, he was conscious and alert. After ensuring the patient’s condition did not worsen, Anderson accompanied him on the hike. Medical assessment revealed a two-to three-inch laceration on the right side of his skull and light rope burns on his leg. Starkey explained to rescuers that he had been lead climbing outdoors for his first time on the route Chicken Bone (5.8 sport). As he was nearing the third bolt, he lost his grip on a hold and fell. His rope was behind his leg, and this caused him to flip upside down and hit his head on a ledge below. Starkey said he was unsure, but felt like he had “blacked out.” He was not wearing a helmet. (Source: Incident Report from Pilot Mountain State Park.) Many of us have fallen and had the rope catch behind our leg. Usually, we get nothing more than a bad rope burn. Unfortunately, there can be severe consequences if we get a hard catch, flip upside down, and strike our head. Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, is back with some advice on how to fall correctly. Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing; Katie Ferguson, Executive Assistant; Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney; Editor: Sierra McGivney. Location: Canal Zone, Clear Creek Canyon, CO. Avoid getting your feet and legs between the rock and the rope. A fall in this position may result in the leg snagging the rope and flipping the climber upside down. While many sport leaders pass on wearing a helmet, this accident is a good example of its usefulness. Leading easier climbs can increase the risk for injury, as they often tend to be lower angle and/or have ledges that a falling climber could hit. (Source: The Editors.) Editor’s Note: This was Starkey’s first outdoor climbing lead, and his lack of experience perhaps contributed to the accident. Lead climbing carries inherent dangers regardless of the grade and amount of protection. Popular moderates might be more perilous than notoriously dangerous routes, as climbers can be more easily caught unawares on “easy” and well-protected terrain. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/7/24/july-prescription
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    Laura Dahlmeier was climbing Laila Peak in the Karakorum when she was struck by rockfall The post Olympian Laura Dahlmeier Dies in Climbing Accident appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/olympian-laura-dahlmeier-dies-in-climbing-accident/