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Climbing News from assorted publications

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    In July 1953, a teenage Jerry Gallwas joined Royal Robbins and Don Wilson for the second ascent of this challenging Yosemite line. Seventy-two years later, Gallwas recalls the climb The post Jerry Gallwas Remembers Yosemite’s Steck-Salathé Route on Sentinel appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/jerry-gallwas-remembers-yosemites-steck-salathe-route-on-sentinel/
  • Fri Night Vid Shauna Coxsey Bouldering in Sintra

    climbing a day ago
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    In this week's Friday Night Video, we follow Shauna Coxsey as she attempts to make the 3rd ascent of Mito Sit (8B+/V14) in Sintra, Portugal. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779966
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    In 2020, he became the first Canadian to climb 5.15a. Now he's the first Canadian to climb two routes of the grade. The post Canadian Evan Hau Talks His Ascent of Death of Villains 5.15a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/canadian-evan-hau-talks-his-ascent-of-death-of-villains-5-15a/
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    In this episode of the AAC podcast, we have adventure writer Cassidy Randall on to talk about her new book, "Thirty Below." Thirty Below is the gripping story of the Denali Damsels–a group of female adventurers who achieved the first all-women’s ascent of Denali, also known as Mt. McKinley, the tallest peak in North America. Everyone told the “Denali Damsels,” that it couldn’t be done, that women were incapable of climbing mountains on their own. It was 1970. Men had walked on the moon; but women still had not stood on the highest points on Earth. But these six women were unwilling to be limited. They pushed past barriers in society at large, the climbing world, and their own bodies. Following vibrant mountaineers with a lot of personality, like the stubborn Grace Hoemann and the brilliant chemist Arlene Blum, this book tells a rich tale of a community's set of limiting beliefs, and the women who dared to prove them wrong, despite disaster and risk on the expedition. In the episode, Cassidy and the AAC dive into some of the experiences of these women that pushed them to achieve more and more in their mountaineering careers, the challenges of archival research, and capturing a climbing story that is too often forgotten. Buy the Book Learn More About Cassidy Randall Learn More About Arlene Blum https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/27/thirty-below-the-forgotten-story-of-the-denali-damsels
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    A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.) Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-2x
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    On March 26, the west entrance to Yosemite National Park reopened after closing on March 17 due to a rockslide The post Rockfall Update: Highway 140 Leading into Yosemite Reopens appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/rockfall-update-highway-140-leading-into-yosemite-reopens/
  • Sponsers Back Out, World Cup Event Cancelled

    climbing 3 days ago
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    The IFSC is looking for a replacement host for the final Speed World Cup of the year The post Sponsers Back Out, World Cup Event Cancelled appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/sponsers-back-out-world-cup-event-cancelled/
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    The club is raising money to help reach their financial goal. "This sustainable, permanent hut will provide a safe haven for climbers, hikers, and explorers while minimizing human impact on this fragile alpine environment..." The post Alpine Club of Canada is Building a Mount Robson Hut appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/alpine-club-of-canada-is-building-a-mount-robson-hut/
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    Work has been carried out by the BMC's Land and Property Trust (LPT) at the BMC-owned site of Horseshoe Quarry to allow access for emergency vehicles and people using wheelchairs and mobility scooters. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779925
  • Katie Lamb Completes a Yosemite V14

    climbing 3 days ago
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    The top American boulderer topped Carlo Traversi's The Rookery late last year The post Katie Lamb Completes a Yosemite V14 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/katie-lamb-completes-a-yosemite-v14/
  • Alex Honnold Onsight Free-Solos Big Climb

    climbing 3 days ago
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    He recently returned to North America after visiting the Wadi Rum area in Jordan The post Alex Honnold Onsight Free-Solos Big Climb appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-onsight-free-solos-big-climb/
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    Will Bosi has made the first ascent of El Dorado Sit, a new 8C boulder in Sintra, Portugal. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779912
  • Lara Neumeier repeats Psychogramm, 8b+ (Trad)

    climbing 4 days ago
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    German climber Lara Neumeier has made the fourth ascent, and first female ascent, of Psychogramm, 8b+ (Trad) at Brser Platte, Austria. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779911
  • 'The Corner' by Phil Gibson

    climbing 4 days ago
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    Cenotaph Corner is an Extreme graded climb (E1) on Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass, Snowdonia. It's first ascent was made famous in 1952 by the legendary climber Joe Brown (who sadly passed away in 2020).To celebrate the anniversary of it... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779906
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    Don't miss this educational gathering in Yosemite National Park from May 9 to 11 The post All You Need to Know About the 2025 Yosemite Farm to Crag Event appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/events/all-you-need-to-know-about-the-2025-yosemite-farm-to-crag-event/
  • American Going for Everest Spreed Record

    climbing 4 days ago
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    The American is known for his growing list of fastest known times on some of the world's most famous peaks The post American Going for Everest Spreed Record appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/american-going-for-everest-spreed-record/
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    With her send of Parallel World, Katie McKinstry became the first woman to climb D15+ The post Katie McKinstry Makes History with Hardest Female Drytooling Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/katie-mckinstry-makes-history-with-hardest-female-drytooling-ascent/
  • Ace Team Climbs New Alpine M7 in Alps

    climbing 4 days ago
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    Tom Livingstone and Rob Smith climbed the route over a few days at the start of March The post Ace Team Climbs New Alpine M7 in Alps appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/ace-team-climbs-new-alpine-m7-in-alps/
  • Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Neanderthal, 9b

    climbing 4 days ago
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    Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated Chris Sharma's Neanderthal (9b) in Santa Linya and in doing so has completed 3 of the 4 9b routes he has set his sights on for this season. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779887
  • CWIF 2025 Round Up

    climbing 4 days ago
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    Last weekend saw the 2025 edition of the Climbing Works International Festival take place, with local, national, and international competitors testing their mettle on top tier boulders. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779885