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We've all wondered - how strong is it? The Alpinesavvy web gnomes scoured the web to find some break testing for common (and not so common) gear, knots and rigging. Start here for an overview, and then head over to the more detailed articles. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-strong-is-it-overview

We've all wondered - how strong is it? Here's an overview of various flavors of anchor rigging, and links to actual break testing. I'll post part 2 once I get a few more! https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-strong-is-it-anchors-part-1x

Five more quick tips on best practices. This post covers: 1) When to untie your rappel stopper knot, 2) the proper direction for a Grigri when belaying from the anchor, 3) how not to carry your satcom device, 4) how to shorten a sewn loop daisy chain, and 5) why to keep your anchor low on a tree. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-5

Five more quick tips on best practices. This post covers: 1) When to untie your rappel stopper knot, 2) the proper direction for a Grigri when belaying from the anchor, 3) how not to carry your satcom device, 4) how to shorten a sewn loop daisy chain, and 5) why to keep your anchor low on a tree. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-4-stp5w

A double loop bowline on a bight is a good starting point for various types of anchors. Here's one application, the “fisheye”. Make a three-piece anchor with a 120 cm sling? Yep! Learn all about it here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-fish-eye-anchor

It's easy to get crosseyed looking at a pulley system and trying to figure out the mechanical advantage. Fortunately, there's an easy way to calculate it, requiring the math skills of a third grader. (Yes, you can do this.) Let’s learn the “T method.” Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//using-the-t-method-to-calculate-mechanical-advantage

At some point, all climbers will have to rappel down an unknown route. Here are some solid tips to hopefully get you down in one piece, without creating too many (epic) stories to tell later. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/rappelling-into-the-unknown

Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-4

Aid climbing requires lots of fixed rope ascending. The traditional way to do this is using your ”lead” ladders. However, an adjustable, comfortable and lightweight stirrup is a superior tool. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/stirrups-for-rope-ascending

A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. (Warning: anchor nerds only.) Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/is-a-small-anchor-angle-better-maybe-not

In most rappels, getting the rope down is pretty straightforward: give each strand a toss and hope for the best. However, challenging terrain and conditions may require some specialized techniques. Here are a few. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/rappel-tips-for-tricky-terrain

Tool tethers prevent the gigantic problem of dropping an ice tool on a long alpine route. The commercial ones work fine; however they can be a bit expensive. Here's a way to make your own. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/diy-ice-tool-tethers

Want to boost the strength of your rigging? Simply doubling the strands into a basket hitch can dramatically increase the strength, which could be helpful in some situations. See the test results here. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/need-a-stronger-anchor-try-a-basket-hitch

A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.) Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-2x

A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.) Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-3

Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/what-are-the-screaming-barfies

As ice climbing season winds down, it becomes more important to consider environmental conditions as potential hazards. Here are five of them. Guest post from IFMGA Guide Kel Rossiter. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/ice-climbing-environmental-red-flags

Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. See examples of strong and simple rigging here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/alpine-retreat-anchors-part-2

Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig so you can do it under potential stress. Learn the principles here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/alpine-retreat-anchors-part-1

Hooks are crucial gear for aid climbing, but they are a bit unusual: most require you to add a sling. Here are a few tricks and best practices for slinging your hooks. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-sling-hooks-wwRJG