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A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.) https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/do-this-not-that-part-1

The normal way of cutting and melting a rope doesn't work too well with a rope with an aramid core, because it’s fireproof! Here's a simple and unconventional way to get a perfectly sealed cut on an aramid rope. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//how-to-cut-a-kevlar-core-rope

Have you seen another climber doing something that could be potentially lethal? How did you handle it? It's a tough call, and there are no right answers. Here's one approach. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-do-you-offer-safety-advice-when-climbing

Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-avoid-edge-loading-carabiners

Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-add-a-gpx-file-to-your-phone

When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/snapgate-or-locking-carabiners-on-anchors

If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/protect-your-fixed-rope-from-edge-abrasion

Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff; another option is the self-lower. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/descend-by-self-lowering

The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-feet-warm-part-3

If a fixed rope is loaded over an edge, it might get damaged. Here's a simple technique to save your rope: the rebelay. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/protect-a-fixed-rope-with-a-rebelay

In crevasse rescue, you often build one anchor and transfer the load to it. Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2. Here are three methods to dial in this equalization. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/three-ways-to-equalize-crevasse-rescue-anchors

You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. How would you get past it? Here’s one method. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//how-do-you-rappel-past-a-damaged-section-of-rope

Here are some winter-tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part two of a series of three articles. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-hands-warm-part-2

Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd shares some of his top tips for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part one of a series of three articles. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-hands-warm-part-1

Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method, but it's quick and simple. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/load-transfer-the-stirrup-hoist

Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method, but it's quick and simple. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/load-transfer-the-stirrup-hoist-zVn5Z

The “Swiss cheese” model is a metaphor for how risk can be reduced through overlapping and redundant safety systems. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-swiss-cheese-model-of-risk-mitigation

Pro climber Brent Barghahn has some impressive free climbing ascents of El Capitan, and definitely knows a thing or two about what to bring on a big wall. Here's a link to his checklist from a helpful blog article he wrote. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/whats-in-my-pack-big-wall-gear-by-brent-barghahn

photo: Will Gadd collection https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/keeping-your-hands-warm-from-will-gadd

Think you're good at solving climbing problems on the fly? See if you can figure out this one! https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/head-scratcher-can-you-solve-this-rappel-problem