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  • What are the “Screaming Barfies”?

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/what-are-the-screaming-barfies
  • 1 Votes
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    AlpineSavvyA
    As ice climbing season winds down, it becomes more important to consider environmental conditions as potential hazards. Here are five of them. Guest post from IFMGA Guide Kel Rossiter. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/ice-climbing-environmental-red-flags
  • Alpine retreat anchors - Part 2

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. See examples of strong and simple rigging here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/alpine-retreat-anchors-part-2
  • Alpine retreat anchors - Part 1

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig so you can do it under potential stress. Learn the principles here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/alpine-retreat-anchors-part-1
  • How to sling hooks

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Hooks are crucial gear for aid climbing, but they are a bit unusual: most require you to add a sling. Here are a few tricks and best practices for slinging your hooks. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-sling-hooks-wwRJG
  • Do This, Not That (Part 1)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.) https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/do-this-not-that-part-1
  • How to cut an Aramid core rope

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    The normal way of cutting and melting a rope doesn't work too well with a rope with an aramid core, because it’s fireproof! Here's a simple and unconventional way to get a perfectly sealed cut on an aramid rope. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//how-to-cut-a-kevlar-core-rope
  • 0 Votes
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Have you seen another climber doing something that could be potentially lethal? How did you handle it? It's a tough call, and there are no right answers. Here's one approach. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-do-you-offer-safety-advice-when-climbing
  • How to avoid edge loading carabiners

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-avoid-edge-loading-carabiners
  • How to add a GPX file to your phone

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-add-a-gpx-file-to-your-phone
  • Snapgate or locking carabiners on anchors?

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/snapgate-or-locking-carabiners-on-anchors
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    AlpineSavvyA
    If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/protect-your-fixed-rope-from-edge-abrasion
  • Descend by self-lowering

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff; another option is the self-lower. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/descend-by-self-lowering
  • 0 Votes
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    AlpineSavvyA
    The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-feet-warm-part-3
  • Protect a fixed rope with a rebelay

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    If a fixed rope is loaded over an edge, it might get damaged. Here's a simple technique to save your rope: the rebelay. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/protect-a-fixed-rope-with-a-rebelay
  • How to equalize crevasse rescue anchors

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    In crevasse rescue, you often build one anchor and transfer the load to it. Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2. Here are three methods to dial in this equalization. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/three-ways-to-equalize-crevasse-rescue-anchors
  • 0 Votes
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    AlpineSavvyA
    You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. How would you get past it? Here’s one method. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//how-do-you-rappel-past-a-damaged-section-of-rope
  • Will Gadd: Keeping your hands warm, Part 2

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Here are some winter-tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part two of a series of three articles. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-hands-warm-part-2
  • Will Gadd: Keeping your hands warm, Part 1

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd shares some of his top tips for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part one of a series of three articles. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/will-gadd-keeping-your-hands-warm-part-1
  • Load transfer: The stirrup hoist

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method, but it's quick and simple. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/load-transfer-the-stirrup-hoist