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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • Climbers Waiting Out Storm High on El Capitan

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    GrippedG
    Sasha DiGiulian and Elliot Faber are near the top of El Cap in their push to send the Direct Line The post Climbers Waiting Out Storm High on El Capitan appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climbers-waiting-out-storm-high-on-el-capitan/
  • The retraced overhand knot

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    AlpineSavvyA
    A close cousin of the retraced figure 8, the retraced overhand knot has a few niche applications, like making retreat anchors. Learn about it here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-retraced-overhand-knot
  • It’s Been a Big Month in Climbing – Here’s Some Highlights

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    GrippedG
    From a proposed V18 to a V17 repeat to 5.14 onsights and more, climbers are taking advantage of the fall conditions The post It’s Been a Big Month in Climbing – Here’s Some Highlights appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/its-been-a-big-month-in-climbing-heres-some-highlights/
  • Alpine Climbers Free Hardest Route on Grandes Jorasses

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    GrippedG
    Three climbers have made the first free ascent of one of the Alps' most impressive lines, the 1,100-metre Directe de l’Amitié at ED+ M9+ The post Alpine Climbers Free Hardest Route on Grandes Jorasses appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alpine-climbers-free-hardest-route-on-grandes-jorasses/
  • The Line—Reward and Risk on Kaqur Kangri

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Three teams will be honored with Piolets d’Or in Italy this December, and all three contributed feature articles about their climbs to the 2025 American Alpine Journal (AAJ). Tom Livingstone wrote about his and Aleš Česen’s new route on Gasherbrum III in Pakistan; Dane Steadman described the first ascent of Yashkuk Sar, also in Pakistan, with August Franzen and Cody Winckler; and Spencer Gray told the story of climbing the southwest arête of Kaqur Kangri in Nepal with Ryan Griffiths. There’s a lot to love about Spencer’s AAJ piece —it documents an amazing ascent. But we were also struck by the final passage, in which he reflects on the inherent and sometimes insidious risks of Himalayan alpinism. No one got hurt on the climb of 6,859-meter Kaqur Kangri, but afterward Spencer tallied 20-plus minor incidents that each could have ended very badly. Honest self-assessments like this are essential to a long life in the mountains, so we’ve shared Spencer’s thoughts here for readers to consider in light of their own climbing. Objectives like the southwest arête of Kaqur Kangri used to be what most climbing was: trying something kind of hard, an inconvenient distance from home, and relying on imagination as much as effort to turn a thing dreamt into a thing done. There are still plenty of places to contrive that same experience. We just have to look harder—and be willing to court risk in an unpredictable operating environment.  Our team didn’t have what we’d consider a close call, but in debriefing, I still counted 23 discrete times when the risk ticked up. A mule nearly broke my knee with a kick when I tried to bring it into camp one morning. On our first day of climbing, we hustled up a ramp that was probably at the outside edge of the ricochet zone of the upper serac band. Two days later, Ryan [Griffiths] and I both simultaneously realized that we were pushing our unroped luck on low-angle but hard-frozen talus above the west face. “If we slip here, it’s to the bottom, eh?” I said. Of four minor rockfall incidents, we mitigated two by our choice of protected belays and bivvies. Another was friendly fire: On rappel, I chucked a baseball-sized rock so the ropes wouldn’t dislodge it. But I misaimed, and the rock bounced down the snow slope and nailed Ryan in the shoulder. I reasoned that Ryan had probably done something in a prior life to deserve getting punched in the clavicle. He was less sure. On day three, below the snowfield, we pulled through suspended, stacked blocks in a roof that would have chopped the rope had they dislodged. On the upper headwall, my ice tool tethers got tangled behind a cam after I had campused out a diagonal rail. I couldn’t reverse the move, and I couldn’t continue until I had unthreaded the tools. Half growling, half screaming, I locked off on one arm, frontpoints screeching, and freed myself. When he followed, Ryan simply lowered out and jugged.  On the descent, Ryan and I had probably our riskiest moment when we crossed a 40-foot-wide wind slab partway down the upper northwest face. It appeared suddenly, a shallow pocket of cross-loaded danger in an otherwise stable snowpack. The tension on the slope and the soft, hollow thump as our boots and ice tools pressed through the snow put us both on edge. But with no other signs of failure or propagation, and a morning of downclimbing a similar aspect and angle above us, we each judged it safe enough to proceed. An hour before we regained the base of the mountain, fed up with navigating the messy corners of the final glacier, we briefly but obtusely committed to soloing steep glacial ice, embedded with crushed pebbles, as we traversed 15 feet above the bottom of a closed crevasse. We were spurred on by our friend Matt’s tiny light in the distance and the promise of fresh Snickers. Perhaps a week on the mountain and the tedious descent had dulled our nose for risk.  Three days later, we stopped at Chyargo La on the trek back out and took in our final view of Kaqur. I crouched beneath fluttering prayer flags to lounge against a rock, my fingers getting sticky pulling globs of gulab jamun out of a can we’d saved until now for a treat. Kaqur’s summit seracs glinted in the midday sun from what seemed like a very long ways away. Matt and Ryan laughed as I passed them the can for a shot of syrup to wash it all down. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/11/18/the-linereward
  • Alpinists Redpoint Snowy 280-metre M8 in the Alps

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    GrippedG
    Simon Gietl and Ines Papert made a no-falls ascent of the granite wall The post Alpinists Redpoint Snowy 280-metre M8 in the Alps appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alpinists-redpoint-snowy-280-metre-m8-in-the-alps/
  • Jakob Schubert Sends His Second V17

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    GrippedG
    With his ascent of Mount Doom, Schubert is the first 5.15d climber to tick two V17s The post Jakob Schubert Sends His Second V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jakob-schubert-sends-his-second-v17/
  • 73-Year-Old Climber’s Strength Will Shock You

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    GrippedG
    A new film by Hannah Morris features the legendary Irmgard Braun The post 73-Year-Old Climber’s Strength Will Shock You appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/73-year-old-climbers-strength-will-shock-you/
  • 0 Votes
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    American Alpine ClubA
    I move, therefore I am. I reminded myself of this throughout the journey to and from Arviqtujuq Kangiqtua, formerly known as Eglinton Fjord. Throughout our five-week, multi-sport, primarily human-powered expedition to Baffin Island, in the Canadian Arctic, Kelly Fields, Shira Biner, Natalie Afonina, and I continued to move. We skied over 100 miles across the sea ice in order to get there, and we slogged for another 100 miles over moraine fields, loose talus, sinking meadows, a frozen lake, and a partially frozen river to get out. Movement was our rule, our rhythm. And as a team of three women and a non-binary person, we were motivated to define this movement on our own terms. Kelly, Shira, Natalie, and I met for the first time in person at the Ottawa Airport en route to the Arctic. Only a few of us had tied in together before this trip. Prior to our real-life introduction, we spent months exchanging messages, photos, screenshots, videos, and group calls on WhatsApp. Now, past the logistical chaos of prep for this expedition, we still had a lot of learning to do about each other. I’m lucky in that I know an abundance of female, non-binary, and queer people who are incredible climbing partners. I prefer to rope up with them because of my ongoing struggles with self-confidence and self-trust that I learned in the shadow of my male climbing partners. Here was an opportunity to move toward my goals and the style of climbing that most inspires me, alongside a group of people who uplift one another. When we received our first grant—the McNeill-Nott Award from the American Alpine Club—I started to feel that other people believed in us, which gave me more belief in myself. Representation is important, and the organizations that supported us believed that too. It was coming together all too perfectly. I stared at the vast ice and seascape before me: Circles of white interrupted the piercing blue water that settled up to a foot deep in some places. We were leaving the bay in the small Inuit community of Clyde River. The gray sky let go of gentle snowflakes that melted on my sunglasses, making my surroundings appear as if I were looking out a window on a rainy day. “So...how thick is this ice?” I asked, my voice wavering. The last time I had put skis on was a number of years ago. On snow, on solid ground. However, I was soon submerged within and captivated by the ice’s symphony as we glided, heaved, soared over, walked, and trudged—depending on the conditions of the sea ice—over a hundred miles on a seascape that was constantly changing. Moving through that environment was dictated by the wind, temperature, snow, and our bodies’ needs. One moment, we would be trapped in a cloud, the snow absorbing the sound around us and sticking to our ski skins so thick that we had to take them off. Moments later, after turning a corner, the winds had blown the clouds and snow off the surface, and we found ourselves flying over the best ice conditions we had yet experienced. That landscape spoke to me, telling me that it, too, exists in states of movement and change. I often look to the natural world to find my own sense of belonging. Being a non-binary person often means that I don’t always find a type of belonging that is representative. I struggle in groups of men. In groups of women, I push back on the definitions and create an exclusionary space for myself. Asking for a non-binary category creates the exact thing I don’t want to exist within: a category. One day, I hope I can exist in a way that is outside the confines of man or woman—that I can exist as myself without needing to choose between explaining and educating, or quietly disrespecting myself. The thing about gender, being non-binary specifically, is that it’s simultaneously the most painful and most beautiful experience one can have. There is a deep gratitude in being the truest form of yourself; there is a wholeness in accepting one’s authenticity. It can also often be painful to a core level. My relationship with gender is like the Arctic wind: always present, sometimes gentle and caressing, other times a chaos that threatens to knock me down. I felt the spirits skiing into Arviqtujuq Kangiqtua. Finally, among those great walls, exhausted, hungry, sore, and cold, we debated where to set up our base camp and had a hard time getting anywhere productive with it. I remember feeling confused about how I could be in the greatest place I’ve ever stood, a place that made my soul feel so full, yet in conditions that m... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/11/4/guidebook-xvigrant-spotlight
  • Elias Iagnemma Climbs Possible V18 with Exodia

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    GrippedG
    The multi-year project took the V17 climber hundreds of attempts The post Elias Iagnemma Climbs Possible V18 with Exodia appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/elias-iagnemma-climbs-possible-v18-with-exodia/
  • Trees for climbing anchors: Rappel

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    AlpineSavvyA
    Trees can make great rappel anchors, but there are definitely some best practices and things you want to avoid. Have a look at Part 2 of my detailed series on tree anchors. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/trees-for-climbing-anchors-rappel
  • Tim Emmett, 51, Climbs His First 5.14d with Era Vella

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    GrippedG
    After 130 days and eight years of effort, with the world of climbing rooting him on, Emmett clipped the chains of his mega-project The post Tim Emmett, 51, Climbs His First 5.14d with Era Vella appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/tim-emmett-51-climbs-his-first-5-14d-with-era-vella/
  • Heartbreakingly Close V15 Flash Attempt for Nicolai Užnik

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    GrippedG
    The V17 climber sent La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood after a nearly successful flash attempt The post Heartbreakingly Close V15 Flash Attempt for Nicolai Užnik appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/heartbreakingly-close-v15-flash-attempt-for-nicolai-uznik/
  • Leo Bøe Opens of a 5.15a Sport Route in Norway

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    GrippedG
    Bøe makes the hardest first ascent by a Norwegian climber with Hafgúfa 5.15a The post Leo Bøe Opens of a 5.15a Sport Route in Norway appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/leo-boe-opens-of-a-5-15a-sport-route-in-norway/
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    GrippedG
    The season will begin in February 2025 and will will determine who represents Team USA at international comp climbing events The post USA Climbing Releases Schedule for 2026 National Championship Season appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/usa-climbing-releases-schedule-for-2026-national-championship-season/
  • U.S.A. Government Effectively Bans Book About Water from Yosemite

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    GrippedG
    While The State of Water isn't pulled from shelves, the Trump administration flagged it as "negative" content The post U.S.A. Government Effectively Bans Book About Water from Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gripped-outdoors/u-s-a-government-effectively-bans-book-about-water-from-yosemite/
  • Squamish Base Jumper Crashes, Lucky to be Alive

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    GrippedG
    Over 20 people with Squamish Search and Rescue responded to save the man The post Squamish Base Jumper Crashes, Lucky to be Alive appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/squamish-base-jumper-crashes-lucky-to-be-alive/
  • Climber Sentenced to 30 Years for Plotting Mass Shooting

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    GrippedG
    Samson Garner has been sentenced to 30 years in prison for his planned attack on climbers at an event at Smith Rock The post Climber Sentenced to 30 Years for Plotting Mass Shooting appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/climber-sentenced-to-30-years-for-plotting-mass-shooting/
  • Southeast Revival

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    Access FundA
    In 2025, Access Fund helped local climbing advocates double the accessible terrain in the Red River Gorge. It’s just one in a recent spate of wins—and this is just the beginning. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/southeast-revival
  • Advocate Spotlight: Mia Axon

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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/advocate-spotlight-mia-axon