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    As ice climbing season winds down, it becomes more important to consider environmental conditions as potential hazards. Here are five of them. Guest post from IFMGA Guide Kel Rossiter. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/ice-climbing-environmental-red-flags
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    Eighteen years after establishing The Nose, Warren Harding completed one of his final routes—ordering his team to chop bolts and rivets as they climbed The post Yosemite’s Removed Big Wall: Steve Bosque Remembers the Porcelain Wall appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/yosemites-removed-big-wall-steve-bosque-remembers-the-porcelain-wall/
  • Simon Lorenzi Climbs His Fourth V17

    climbing 16 days ago
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    He just made the fourth ascent of Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker V17 The post Simon Lorenzi Climbs His Fourth V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/simon-lorenzi-climbs-his-fourth-v17/
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    The V13 U.K. lowball features a desperate throw to the lip off some terrible feet The post “Worst Footholds I’ve Ever Used?” – Shauna Coxsey Tops Lupin V13 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/worst-footholds-ive-ever-used-shauna-coxsey-tops-lupin-v13/
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    Ring the bells in elegy For the last engine Of the last Saturn On (semi) permanent loan From the buddy of the last dirtbag To struggle off rock You were bitching the other day That the artists weren’t starving anymore That the spirit was no longer willing to suffer for it maybe, But the flesh… https://climbingzine.com/elegy-for-the-apparent-last-true-dirtbag-a-poem/
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    Janja Garnbret has made a rare repeat of Za staro kolo (F8c+), a historic route originally climbed by Tadej Slabe in 1992. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/janja-garnbret-makes-rare-repeat-of-historic-za-staro-kolo-f8c/
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    Noah Wheeler continues his stellar 2025 form with the second ascent of Shaolin (Font 9A) at Red Rocks, Las Vegas. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/noah-wheeler-gets-second-ascent-of-shaolin-font-9a/
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    Austrian climber, Nicolia Uznik, has made the first ascent of Mount Doom (Font 9A) in Maltatal, Austria. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/nicolai-uznik-gets-first-ascent-of-mount-doom-font-9a/
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    Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has repeated Daniel Woods'Return of the Sleepwalker(Font 9A/V17), in Black Velvet Canyon, Nevada. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779562
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    Noah Wheeler has repeated Sean Bailey's Font 9A/V17, Shaolin, in Red Rocks, Nevada. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779472
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    Shauna Coxsey has made the second ascent of Lupin, 8B, on Stanton Moor in the Peak District just one month after Jim Pope put up the problem. There's only a single hold on the entire problem, and one extremely hard move, so it's... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779549
  • 2025 Boulder UK Plywood Masters Report

    climbing 16 days ago
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    Boulder UK hosted their signature competition, the Plywood Masters. The event took place over two days, with 30 qualifying boulders on the Saturday followed by a World Cup-format Semi-Finals and Finals showpiece on the Sunday. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779482
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    "In the vast Sierra wilderness far to the southward of the famous Yosemite Valley, there is a yet grander... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779402
  • Laura Rogora Repeats New 5.14d in Arco

    climbing 23 days ago
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    The ascent follows her 5.14d redpoint and 5.14a and 5.14b onsights in Oliana The post Laura Rogora Repeats New 5.14d in Arco appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/laura-rogora-repeats-new-5-14d-in-arco/
  • Meet Your 2025 Canadian National Team

    climbing 23 days ago
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    These 10 climbers have earned their spots on Canada's Elite and Performance Squads for Boulder, Lead, and/or Speed The post Meet Your 2025 Canadian National Team appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/meet-your-2025-canadian-national-team/
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    “We were in tennis shoes, t-shirts, Levi’s, had strong arms, and not a hell of a lot of judgment.” The post Lost Arrow Chimney, Yosemite, 1955: Jerry Gallwas Recalls Climbing This Wide Testpiece appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/lost-arrow-chimney-yosemite-1955-jerry-gallwas-recalls-climbing-this-wide-testpiece/
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    March 2025 The American Alpine Club and Black Diamond Equipment are pleased to announce the 2025 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club's 120-year tradition by funding individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first-free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Five teams have been awarded a total of $25,000 for this cycle, with objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality looked upon with favor. Black Diamond Equipment is a proud sponsor of the Cutting Edge Grant and a key partner in supporting cutting-edge alpinism. Vitaliy Museyenko will be awarded $6,000 to attempt a new route on the southwest aspect of Kishtwar Shivling (6,000m), located in the Indian Himalayas. The mountain's main summit has only been reached once; the east summit was climbed in 2014, and the east pillar was climbed in 2015. Vitaliy Musiyenko will be attempting the route with Sean McLane. If they have enough time and energy in the tank, they hope to attempt another, unclimbed mountain with a similar altitude in the area. Michael Hutchins will be awarded $6,000 to attempt the southwest face of Rimo lll (7233m), an unclimbed 1600m face in the eastern Karakoram of India. Hutchins and Chris Wright discovered this objective because Wright caught a glimpse of the Rimo peaks after an expedition in 2012. Stefano Ragazzo will join them on their expedition. The team of three are all mountain guides with extensive climbing experience: Ragazzo recently rope-soloed Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower in Pakistan; Wright received the Piolet d'Or in 2020 for his team's ascent of Link Sar; and Hutchins has climbed six of seven major peaks in the Fitz Roy massif. Tad McCrea will be awarded $4,000 to attempt the southeast pillar of Latok lll (6,949 meters) from the Choktoi Glacier. Latok III has never been climbed from the Choktoi glacier but was summited from the west face in 2011. The expedition team will include Jon Giffin and Thomas Huber. The three climbers attempted the proposed route in 2024 but had to descend before bad weather moved in. Zach Lovell will be awarded $4,000 to attempt a new route on Dorje Lhakpa (6966m), located in the Jugal Himal, about 55 kilometers northeast of Kathmandu. Japhy Dhungana and Joseph Hobby will join Lovell on this expedition, which will involve over 1,000 meters of technical climbing from 5900 to 6900 meters. Dhungana and Lovell did their first new route in the alpine together in Nepal several years ago and are looking forward to another adventure in Dhungana's home country. Hobby and Lovell have also spent countless days climbing and skiing together, from the contiguous U.S. to Alaska. Lovell is honored to call both of them some of his closest friends and looks forward to spending time together as a team of three. Ethan Berman will be awarded $5,000 to attempt the southeast "hidden" pillar of Ultar Sar (7388 m), located in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. The route is a striking 3000m line, with the lower half of the route consisting of 1500m of steep snow and ice climbing with a couple of mixed steps, and the upper half consisting of a 1500m stunning rock pillar that cuts a line through the sky all the way to the summit. Maarten van Haeren, Sebastian Pelletti, and Berman attempted the route in the spring of 2024, reaching a hanging glacier at 6000m before turning around due to dangerous snow conditions. They made three attempts total, each time climbing a bit higher while learning how to move safely through the complexities of the route. They are fired up to return to Pakistan with the support of the Cutting Edge Grant and hope to apply all that they learned last year to increase their chances of success. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1 through November 30. Contact: Berkeley Anderson, Foundation and Gr... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/4/the-american-alpine-club-announces-2025-cutting-edge-grant-winners
  • This Year’s World Cup Will Feature New Rules

    climbing 24 days ago
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    These rules will not only affect the climbers competing, but also the audience watching in person or online at home The post This Year’s World Cup Will Feature New Rules appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/this-years-world-cup-will-feature-new-rules/
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    Jim Pope has made a quick repeat of Pete Whittaker Burbage South testpiece, Dynamics of Change (E9 7a). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/jim-pope-makes-third-ascent-of-dynamics-of-change-e9-7a/
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    Stefano Ghisolfi has made the fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's Sleeping Lion (9b) in Siurana, Spain, and in doing so has successfully climbed two 9bs in two weeks, having repeated Alex Megos' The Full Journey late last month. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779341