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  • Tales from Red Rock's Risk Mistress: Joanne Urioste

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Joanne Urioste is a powerhouse in Red Rocks climbing history, and we had her on the podcast to share stories from her recently published memoir, “Collages of Rock & Desire.” Her book is a detailed catalogue of the climbing legacy she shares with her husband George Urioste, including the creation of iconic multi pitch climbs like Epinephrine, Levitation 29, A Dream of Wild Turkeys, and many others. The book is also a detailed account of gear innovations and changing climbing ethics through the ‘70s and 80’s—from swami belts and belay plates, to early adoption of nuts and frontpointing on ice, and adding a run-out bolt here and there to connect discontinuous cracks and make many climbs possible on Red Rocks soaring faces. In the interview, we dive into all of this, plus Joanne and George’s wild love story, managing fear on lead, and climbing as a metaphor for life. You can find a copy of Joanne Urioste's book on Amazon. Buy Joanne Urioste’s Book Watch the Legacy Series Film about George and Joanne Urioste https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/1/22/tales-from-red-rocks-risk-mistress-joanne-urioste
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    GrippedG
    Among the 1998 team were leading big wall free climbers Todd Skinner and Paul Piana. The result was a 31-pitch 5.12 that has seen several repeats The post Story of Americans Freeing War and Poetry on Greenland appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/story-of-americans-freeing-war-and-poetry-on-greenland/
  • Zach Galla Topping The Singularity V15 in Squamish

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The granite test-piece is one of Canada's most difficult boulder problems The post Zach Galla Topping The Singularity V15 in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/zach-galla-topping-the-singularity-v15-in-squamish/
  • A Climber We Lost: Adam George

    General News climbing
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    climbingC
    Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community. https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-adam-george/
  • Guidebook XII—Rewind the Climb

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    By Hannah Provost If you had to tell the story of the evolution of climbing within the history of one route, your most compelling choices might be The Nose of El Capitan or The Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon. In this way, The Naked Edge is a time capsule containing within its memory: the much dreamed-of first ascent finally climbed by Layton Kor, Bob Culp, and Rick Horn; a period defining free ascent by Jim Erickson and Duncan Furgeson in the early 1970s; and one of the few battle- grounds for speed records in the United States. In 1962, Kor and Bob Culp were diverted attempting to aid the steep final edge, and today, climbers have speed climbed the route, bridge to bridge, in a little over 22 minutes. What is it about this climb that has allowed it to be the sketchbook for climbing legends to draw out the evolution of our sport? Anecdotes and artifacts from the American Alpine Club Library and archives provided the answer. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/11/25/guidebook-xiirewind-the-climb
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    GrippedG
    The Nexus AKA The Niels Tietze Memorial Route is said to be one of the best modern routes in the area The post Emily Harrington Climbs Nine-Pitch 5.13b in Yosemite Valley appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/emily-harrington-climbs-nine-pitch-5-13b-in-yosemite-valley/
  • Eva Hammelmüller on a 5.14 Sending Spree

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/eva-hammelmuller-on-a-5-14-sending-spree/
  • Hill Path Campaign Makes Strides in First Year

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=771371