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Sophie Buitendyk Sends Evilution Direct V11 Highball

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    climber-magazineC
    Laura Pineau has made the first female ascent of Wet Lycra Nightmare (F8b/5.13d) in Yosemite National Park, USA. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/laura-pineau-with-first-female-ascent-of-wet-lycra-nightmare-f8b-5-13d/
  • Ainhize Belar Barrutia Climbs 5.14d in Spain

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    GrippedG
    The 19-year-old made history last year when she became the first Spanish woman to climb 5.15a The post Ainhize Belar Barrutia Climbs 5.14d in Spain appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/ainhize-belar-barrutia-climbs-5-14d-in-spain/
  • How to avoid edge loading carabiners

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-avoid-edge-loading-carabiners
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    climbingC
    The 34-year-old Slovakian alpinist fell into a crevasse after his rappel anchor broke. https://www.climbing.com/news/ondrej-huserka-dies-first-ascent-himalayan-mountain/
  • Connor Herson Climbs New 5.15a in Squamish

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Midnight Way follows a difficult line in Paradise Valley. It's one of several hard climbs Herson did in Canada this year The post Connor Herson Climbs New 5.15a in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/connor-herson-climbs-new-5-15a-in-squamish/
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • One arm rapid fire questions ft. Alex Totkova #climbing

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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kombBr6D-a0
  • 0 Votes
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2bQZp5ODOc