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New E9 for Matt Helliker

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  • How to Place a Metolius Spring Force Bolt

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    As we head into spring, it's a good time to touch base with your local access group to find out if you can volunteer to help replace aging bolts The post How to Place a Metolius Spring Force Bolt appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/how-to-place-a-metolius-spring-force-bolt/
  • Snapgate or locking carabiners on anchors?

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/snapgate-or-locking-carabiners-on-anchors
  • Greenspit, 8b trad, sees second female ascent

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    UK ClimbingU
    Laura Pineau has made the second female ascent of Greenspit, the famous Orco crack climb established by Didier Berthod. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775457
  • 0 Votes
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
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    climbingC
    “I basically had a personal trainer!” our reviewer raved. “I don’t know what else I could’ve even asked for.” https://www.climbing.com/skills/training/review-climbing-strong-training-plan/