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Wide Boyz Freeing Hard Norway Trad Climbs

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    GrippedG
    The V17 climber sent La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood after a nearly successful flash attempt The post Heartbreakingly Close V15 Flash Attempt for Nicolai Užnik appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/heartbreakingly-close-v15-flash-attempt-for-nicolai-uznik/
  • Interview Emma Twyford repeats Yma O Hyd (E10 7a)

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    Last week Emma Twyford repeated James McHaffie's Yma o Hyd. Not only did she become the third person to repeat the route, but she also became the first woman to climb a UK E10, which - alongside her being the first British woman to climb 9a - a... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=784374
  • 2025 USA National Team Announced

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Here are the climbers that will represent the United States on the World Cup circuit this year The post 2025 USA National Team Announced appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/2025-usa-national-team-announced/
  • Prescription—Knee Stuck in Crack

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Wild as it may seem, every year we publish at least one report of a climber getting their knee stuck in an offwidth crack. Sound crazy? It happened to Martin Boysen on Trango Tower and more recently Jason Kruk on Boogie Till You Puke.  On January 8, Climber 1 (female, 25) got her knee stuck in a wide crack on the Regular Route (3 pitches, 5.7) on Queen Victoria Spire in Sedona. Climber 1 was following four friends on her first outdoor climb when she attempted an “alpine knee” while pulling onto a ledge on the second pitch. An “alpine knee” is when you place that joint on top of a high hold and use it for progress, instead of a foot. Rather than helping her onto the ledge, Climber 1’s knee slipped into a four-inch-wide crack, where it wedged and became stuck. Others in her party tried pouring water over her knee in an attempt to free it but were unsuccessful.  At 5:15 p.m., the Coconino County Sheriff’s department was contacted to perform a rescue. By 8 p.m., the SAR team had arrived. It took over an hour to free the climber from the crack, and by then the climber was exhibiting signs of mild hypothermia (they had started climbing at 12:30 p.m.). The climbing party was airlifted off the spire. The stuck climber was not injured and refused treatment. The climbers in this scenario did “everything right,” according to the SAR team. They tried to free their partner, and failing that, they initiated a rescue. Many relatively easy routes have awkward sections or styles of climbing that may seem above the technical grade when first encountered outdoors. Care should be taken when making a move where a slip or fall could result in injury or entrapment. It took about four hours to free this climber, and temperatures at the crag dropped to around 30°F. Consider worst-case scenarios when preparing for a climb, as unexpected events could result in prolonged exposure to the elements. (Source: Dan Apodaca.)  If getting your knee stuck in an offwidth is so common, what do we do if it happens? In the video analysis, ANAC editor Pete Takeda provides some tips on how to prepare for this kind of worst-case scenario when rock climbing. Credits: Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and Hannah Provost, Content Director; Producer: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney @fosterdoodle_; Editor: Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Location: Cob Rock, Boulder Canyon, CO https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/12/prescriptionknee
  • Your Quarterly Message From AAC Leadership

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Originally published in Guidebook XIII Dear AAC Members, Thank you for taking the time to dive into this second edition of the AAC’s quarterly Guidebook. A lot of things are changing at the AAC, and we are energized by the new opportunities that these changes afford. We are re-envisioning our measurable impact and excited to further support our members in a way only the AAC can. This Guidebook is just that—your guide to the work that you make possible through your membership. When you read these stories— from celebrating volunteers like Maurice Chen, who is bringing our much-beloved Accidents in North American Climbing to international audiences (which you can read about in “Found in Translation”), or the shattering finding of member Eric Gilbertson that Rainier’s summit is shrinking ( in “The Height of Mountains”), to all the world-class climbing you can find at our cozy lodging facility at the New River Gorge, as well as the profound impact our grants program has on our members (as seen in “Sea to Summit” and “Life: An Objective Hazard”)—you’re seeing the AAC’s mission at work: the advancement of knowledge, inspiration, and advocacy. While we’re excited to share these stories with you, there is also a lot going on behind the scenes that hasn’t made it into a full-fledged story yet. Many of these happenings you can find highlighted in our “AAC Updates” section that follows. As we kick off this new year, we are also excited about ongoing projects that will shape the future of the AAC, like developing a new website, which will make it easier for our members to take advantage of their benefits. Finally, I want to take a moment to celebrate the impressive advocacy success that the AAC helped make possible at the end of 2024. The unanimous passage of the EXPLORE Act is a historic moment for recreationists, and as law, it will significantly expand access to our nation’s public lands and protect climbing in our beloved Wilderness areas. In December, the National Park Service also announced that they are discontinuing their proposed fixed anchor guidance; the AAC thanks the NPS for sensing the need to reevaluate the proposed regulations and looks forward to collaborating with them in the future on fixed anchor guidance. Looking forward, we are equipped to adapt our tactics to future challenges in order to advocate for the needs of our members, and all climbers. At the AAC, we’re pulled together by our passion for climbing, and that passion is woven throughout these pages. Our expansive grants, affordable lodging, significant research findings, impactful advocacy work, and more are only possible because of your membership, donations, and commitment to climbing. Nina Williams AAC Board President Operations and Governance Lodging Advocacy Education https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/2/10/ewld060rs1z9w881oz4awfrbwbiqmj
  • Better than sliced bread

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTmGWU1Fa3o
  • New 5.12 Trad Climbed to Retrieve Stuck Rope

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    A new extension to the famous Belly Full of Bad Berries was also climbed The post New 5.12 Trad Climbed to Retrieve Stuck Rope appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-5-12-trad-climbed-to-retrieve-stuck-rope/
  • Babsi Zangerl Climbs Magic Line 5.14c in Yosemite

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    With the ascent, she joins a very small group of climbers who have climbed both Magic Line and Meltdown The post Babsi Zangerl Climbs Magic Line 5.14c in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/babsi-zangerl-climbs-magic-line-5-14c-in-yosemite/