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Sophie Buitendyk Sends Evilution Direct V11 Highball

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    GrippedG
    The first ascent of the northeast ridge of Ulvetanna by a five-person team in 2013 The post The Epic Story Behind Antarctica’s Longest Rock Climb appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-epic-story-behind-antarcticas-longest-rock-climb/
  • Denali Rescue, 1979: The Untold Full Story

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we have climbing legends Jamie Logan, Jack Tackle, and Ken Currens on the podcast to retell the story of an accident and rescue on Denali from 1979. Jack Tackle and Ken Currens were climbing partners with a number of big mountains and first ascents under their belt, and in 1979, it was their first trip to the Alaska Range. They had decided to attempt the unclimbed southeast face of Denali (also known as Mount McKinely). This face would later become known as the Isis Face. In the middle of the climb, Ken, on lead, took a 250 ft fall when snow gave way beneath him. Once the rope came taught, he was hanging in mid air over a cliff, his femur badly broken. The rescue that followed is a story for the ages. We dive into the mechanics of the accident, what Jack Tackle had to do to get help, and how Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump—two of the most impressive alpinists of the time—were critical in helping save Ken. She and Mugs are especially known for the first ascent of the Emperor Face the year before, and though Mugs has passed, Jamie was able to fill us in on their experience of the rescue. In this episode, these climbing legends put together, in real time, the pieces of this story (that they all remember a tad bit differently)—47 years later. Learn More About Jack Tackle Learn More About Jamie Logan The First Ascent of the Emperor’s Face in the AAJ https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/3/5/denali-rescue-1979-the-untold-full-story
  • Laura Rogora Is First Woman to Onsight 5.14c

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    "Without a doubt, my best climbing day ever!" said Rogora about her historic ascent The post Laura Rogora Is First Woman to Onsight 5.14c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/laura-rogora-is-first-woman-to-onsight-5-14c/
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    ClimbingZineC
    Mudstrosity Yes, it wobbled. Three feet high, one foot wide, a foot deep, probably outweighing me, the block sat at arm’s reach above my head. No way to avoid tangling with it—I was standing in aiders, hanging from a piton. I should bolt around it… by Steve “Crusher” Bartlett (Note: this is an excerpt from… https://climbingzine.com/talk-talk-choss-steve-crusher-bartlett/
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    Hard Is EasyH
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ytFcTHETUQ
  • Shawn Raboutou Climbs New 5.14d in Argentina

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    This is the only route graded 5.14d in the country after one climbed in 2016 was downgraded The post Shawn Raboutou Climbs New 5.14d in Argentina appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/shawn-raboutou-climbs-new-5-14d-in-argentina/
  • The Must-Have Indoor Climbing Essentials

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    You don't need to rely on good weather for big climbings days The post The Must-Have Indoor Climbing Essentials appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/buyers-guide/the-must-have-indoor-climbing-essentials/
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    climber-magazineC
    Chris Sharma has just added yet another stellar DWS first ascent on Mallorca, Vison Quest (F9a). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/chris-sharma-get-first-ascent-of-vision-quest-another-f9a-mallorca-dws/