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Rock Climber Makes His 100th First Ascent

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    GrippedG
    The splitter crack eats #5s and requires 60 meters of horizontal offwidth technique The post Pete Whittaker and Mari Salvesen Flash the World’s Hardest Urban Crack appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/pete-whittaker-and-mari-salvesen-flash-the-worlds-hardest-urban-crack/
  • This wasn’t possible until now

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF_J4POpWEk
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    ClimbingZineC
    I was tempted to stop climbing altogether. At the very least, I wanted to quit off-width. I lost a lot of enthusiasm for wide climbing and felt like my naïve, hopeful “gumby” phase was over. That phase is special to me because being new at something was all about the experience, everything is awesome, and… https://climbingzine.com/wide-tour-by-mary-eden-a-second-excerpt-from-volume-25/
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    JCMcHammyJ
    So there was actually climbing on the Nice climbing trip, too (between the rain... which managed to be both more and less than expected...). La Turbie, as it turns out, felt really kinda sandbagged grade-wise (or maybe I was just sucking?)! But then the fun is in the movement and unlocking the puzzle, not the grade and it was a great trip with a fun bunch; Alesia Sidliarevich (with the excellent catches), Helen Finn, Carole Dawson, and Roy. #climbing #ClimbingIsMyPassion #SportClimbing #LimestoneClimbing #Nice #LaTurbie
  • Guidebook XII—Grant Spotlight

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Usually, when Balin Miller encounters spindrift ice climbing, he puts his head down, waits for 10 to 20 seconds, and continues climbing. Halfway up the face of the Andromeda Strain, a line on the northeast face of Mount Andromeda in Alberta, Canada, Miller and his climbing partner Adrien Costa encountered an intense spindrift funnel. Thirty seconds passed, then one minute, two. After five minutes, he thought, f*** this, and downclimbed. Miller was persistent, but the spindrift was relentless. They wasted a couple of hours try- ing to go around. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/11/25/grant-spotlight
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    GrippedG
    Over a rainy day in the Sierra foothills, Söderlund shares what drives her to climb hard The post Matilda Söderlund: Her Journey from World Cups to Questing up Yosemite Big Walls appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/matilda-soderlund-her-journey-from-world-cups-to-questing-up-yosemite-big-walls/
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
  • Climbers Traverse 9 Famous Dolomite Peaks

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    This is the first time this climb has been recorded and likely the first time it's been climbed in a push The post Climbers Traverse 9 Famous Dolomite Peaks appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/climbers-traverse-9-famous-dolomite-peaks/