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Two Brits on the podium at the European Championships

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  • youtube.com/watch?v=Dh_l-L2oC1…

    General Climbing
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    thefifthseason@venera.socialT
    youtube.com/watch?v=Dh_l-L2oC1…Fingerboard Row Pyramids drill description: Choose a pair of comfortable holds to train Perform Fingerboard Rows with supported feet in a Pyramid fashion: 10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1 Shake out between row series but don’t dismount the fingerboard Beginners: start with 10-8-7 and do 1 set/session Advanced: start going up the Pyramid again: 1-2-3-4… and do up to 5 sets/session with 15-minute rests between setsAnyone tried this protocol and have made experience about it?Seem like a good solution to an annoying problem. Getting pumped on crimps is acceptable and expected, it just happen, but all those half-jugs and half-finger grip or pinch holds that seem okay'ish often surprises with how fast they make you feel pumped. I'm gonna try this for a month to see what impact it can have on bouldering/climbing, hopefully it will reduce this aspect that often limit progress.#climbing #bouldering
  • Chris Sharma: What it Took to Climb Black Pearl

    General News
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    GrippedG
    Sharma recounts the adventure and dedication required to establish his hardest DWS yet The post Chris Sharma: What it Took to Climb Black Pearl appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/chris-sharma-what-it-took-to-climb-black-pearl/
  • Toby Roberts on Perfecto Mundo 5.15c

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    GrippedG
    A video just dropped showing the Olympics winner projecting one of the world's hardest climbs The post Toby Roberts on Perfecto Mundo 5.15c appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/toby-roberts-on-perfecto-mundo-5-15c/
  • Boulder finals | Seoul 2024

    Videos
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IA-z3sC4HC0
  • Fri Night Vid Ground Up on El Nio, El Capitan

    General News
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    UK ClimbingU
    In an era where many climbers are using fixed ropes and sport-climbing tactics to free El Cap, climbers like Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn are choosing to keep adventure alive. Going ground up, Amity and Brent pull off a free ascent of the Pineapple Express variation of El Nio (5.13b/c) over eight days, battling variable... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774735
  • Three Climbers Died on the Matterhorn Last Week

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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/news/three-dead-matterhorn/
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Climbers have a meaningful relationship with the landscapes they love, and advocating for public lands is a critical piece of that relationship. Outdoor recreationists have a powerful connection to place, and that connection makes us a powerful force for conservation. Outdoor Alliance is a national coalition of outdoor recreation advocacy groups that American Alpine Club has been a part of for six years, and together, we work to protect public lands and waters and advocate for climbing and other outdoor recreation. The AAC is the largest community of climbers in the country, and is dedicated to advocating for climbing landscapes and resourcing climbers with essential climbing knowledge and rescue coverage. Since Outdoor Alliance started ten years ago, the coalition has helped protect 40 million acres of public land and water, secured $5.1 billion in funding for the outdoors, and has converted hundreds of thousands of outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor advocates. Here are some of important victories that the American Alpine Club (AAC) and Outdoor Alliance (OA) have notched together: The EXPLORE Act is a first-of-its-kind package of outdoor recreation policy that has been a priority for Outdoor Alliance for many years; the package recently passed the House. It includes sections that will directly protect rock climbing experiences on public lands, a big priority for the AAC.  The Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act is a significant piece of the EXPLORE Act, and has been a focus for the AAC, Access Fund, and the wider Outdoor Alliance coalition. The PARC Act is intended to ensure safe and sustainable access to rock climbing in designated Wilderness areas. It requires federal agencies to recognize recreational climbing as an appropriate activity in accordance with the Wilderness Act of 1964, which states that the placement, use, and maintenance of fixed anchors is appropriate, and ensures that a public comment period is made available to stakeholders prior to any final climbing management guidance being issued. The AAC has also educated their members about the SOAR Act, joining the AMGA who is one of the principle long-time supportess of the SOAR Act. This is another piece of the EXPLORE Act which will streamline recreational permitting for outfitters and guides, benefiting other Outdoor Alliance members like The Mountaineers, Mazamas, and Colorado Mountain Club.   Now that The House has voted to pass EXPLORE, the AAC and OA are advocating for the Senate to also get it across the finish line. Learn more and write your lawmakers about it here.  In 2018, the Trump Administration rolled back protections for the Bears Ears National Monument by more than 80% and Grand Staircase-Escalante by nearly half. Since then, the AAC and its partners at Outdoor Alliance have been continuously educating outdoor enthusiasts about the fight to preserve Bears Ears. This included a lawsuit led by Access Fund against the Trump administration, advocating for the monument to be restored, and participating in a public comment on a new management plan for the restored monument. In 2021, the Biden-Harris Administration restored protections for Bears Ears and the Grand Staircase, which honored the voices of Indigenous communities, climbers, and conservationists alike. The coalition work led by Outdoor Alliance was hugely impactful in bringing outdoor recreationists together on this issue. The AAC is committed to keeping their members updated on future management plans and staying active in this ongoing discussion. The AAC will continue advocating for the role of climbing and responsible conservation by sharing their expertise on land management issues pertaining to climbing, and interfacing with land management agencies, the BLM and USFS, as well as other partners and local and national climbing organizations, to continue to refine the Bears Ears National Monument Draft Resource Management Plan and Environmental Impact Statement... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/27/outdoor-alliance-and-american-alpine-club-working-together-to-protect-rock-climbing-landscapesnbsp
  • Remembering John Middendorf

    General News
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    American Alpine ClubA
    We are deeply saddened by the loss of the incredible climber, mountaineer, inventor, writer, and historian of climbing gear John Middendorf. John (nicknamed the "Deuce") was a true friend to the American Alpine Club, and his insatiable curiosity and kindness made an impression on everyone he met.  Although his contributions to climbing are many, some in particular changed the sport forever. John’s ascent of the East Face of Great Trango Tower in 1992 with Xaver Bongard epitomized his elite climbing skill—The Grand Voyage was a performance of a lifetime on one of the biggest and remotest big walls in the world, and was one of the first Grade VII climbs. John also put up new Grade VI routes on Half Dome and El Cap, along with many first ascents in Zion National Park. He was otherwise a prolific contributor to the American Alpine Journal with exploratory climbs all across the world. John, an engineer and inventor, started a hardware company, A5 Adventures, in 1986. His innovations in portaledge design, as well as Birdbeak pitons, aiders, haul bags, and other gear, unequivocally changed the big-wall game. He sold A5 to The North Face in 1997. His 1994 book Big Walls, co-authored with John Long, was the crucial reference for many wall-climbing novices. But besides being a great man in climbing, he also was a dear friend of the AAC. We deeply appreciate the generosity and knowledge he shared with the Club, his support of the AAC Library, and his contributions to the Legacy Series and the 2023 Cutting Edge Grant.  The AAC’s Library Director, Katie Sauter, reflected: “[John’s] insatiable curiosity led him to research so many avenues of climbing, often sending me questions about the most obscure references. He was very knowledgeable and wrote blog posts about a wide variety of topics pertaining to climbing history and the evolution of gear. He was generous with his time, and when he was visiting, he'd identify historic climbing gear for our collections. His enthusiasm was infectious. He was so interested in how gear was made that he even wanted to test the composition of some of our historic pitons to see what kind of metal was used.” The AAC will truly miss John Middendorf, and our thoughts are with his wife, Jeni, his children, and his other family and friends as they grieve and celebrate him. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/25/remembering-john-middendorf