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  • 1 Votes
    1 Posts
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    UK ClimbingU
    NICAS (National Indoor Climbing Award Schemes) is proud to announce a new partnership with Access Sport to create more inclusive climbing opportunities for disabled young people across the UK. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779143
  • 0 Votes
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year, ice climbers flock to the Ouray Ice Festival to test their skills on the human made ice flows in the park. A select few test their skills on the ice climbing competition wall. Routes are created that include ice, rock, and plywood in the Scottish Gullies section of the ice park.  The American Alpine Club sat down with USA ice climbing competitor Keenan Griscom. Griscom was rocking a North Face leopard-print 1996 retro Nuptse puffer and Y2K gray wrap-around sunglasses, as chill as the ice around us. We chatted about growing up competing in ice climbing competitions, his new link up Tommy's X (5.14b) in Clear Creek Canyon's Nomad’s Cave, and his experimental competition headspace. The experiment succeeded clearly, since Griscom took home the gold in the Ouray men's lead finals the next day. AAC: You were the youngest American to win the Ouray Elite Mixed Climbing Competition at age 16. When did you start climbing? How did you get into competitive ice climbing? Keenan Griscom: My dad actually started me ice climbing when I was four or five here in Ouray. So I've had tools for a long time. And then through Marcus Garcia, [I] found the competition scene and got hooked. I was doing rock comps, and the community in the ice climbing comps was just, so, so good and supportive and friendly, so, as someone who's already into competing, starting the ice comps is just like, oh, this is it. This is a cool spot to be in. AAC: What was it like competing at such a young age? KG: I don't know, I've been competing since I was nine. It was somewhat second nature. I've always wanted to give it [my] all in the comps. And Ouray was really special because when I started, there weren't any age categories. It was just the open format, and anyone could sign up. So if you were in, you're competing with everyone. My first two seasons, I didn't place particularly well. But it was so cool to be competing with people like Will Gadd and Ryan Vachon and all these epic mixed-climbers and alpinists who I looked up to. AAC: What drew you to continue doing competition ice climbing while you fell away from competition bouldering and rock climbing? KG: I stopped competing in rock comps mainly because the scene isn't as welcoming. There's a lot more toxic competitive nature there, and a lot of people get really worked up and will take other people down to get a better result. There's not really any of that in the ice climbing crew. Ice climbing comps are really fun. I'm going to stick with that. But I've been rock climbing outside nonstop. AAC: On that note, I noticed you put up an alternative finish to Tommy's Hard Route (5.13d)—Tommy's X (5.14b). What is the relationship between route development and ice climbing? How do those two things relate, if at all for you? KG: They don't relate a ton since I haven't really done much development for ice or mixed. I've gotten a lot of help from mentors like Marcus, who I met through ice climbing, to teach me development ethics. That route, specifically, it's in a cave near my house, and there's a lot of link ups. I didn't put in any new bolts [for Tommy's X] it was just a new line that hadn't been done yet. AAC: And what inspired you to do that? KG: Tommy's Hard Route (5.13d) is an old school natural line in a cave that's almost all manufactured. There is this really, really big dead point crux that I always thought was super, super interesting. Then it's over. You do this really gnarly dead point, and it's jugs to the chains. Which is nice, but more sustained climbing is more my style. There's this other route called Predator X (5.13a/b) that comes in from the left and finishes basically directly above that dead point. And one day, I was wondering if I could link those up, and then it'd be like a perfectly straight line of bolts through the wall. Yeah, it ended up being a really interesting crux sequence after the initial crux. AAC: That's awesome. You also boulder, can you tell me a little bit more about that? KG: Yeah, I grew up almost exclusively sport climbing, and then started to do ... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/1/30/fvxv7num1r05699fupr3gyohwfk4f5
  • 0 Votes
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    UK ClimbingU
    Austrian Babsi Zangerl has made the first-ever flash ascent of a route on Yosemite's El Capitan, climbingFreerider 5.13a via the Boulder Problemin a three-day push with no falls. Her ascent comes just a few weeks after she repeated one of Yosemite's hardest single-pitch trad routes, Magic Line 8c+ at Vernal Falls. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=776691
  • This could save you money

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDHngaObEcw
  • Alex Megos Sends a Flatanger 5.14d on His Second Go

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    It was his first time ever sending a route while wearing two kneepads The post Alex Megos Sends a Flatanger 5.14d on His Second Go appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-sends-a-flatanger-5-14d-on-his-second-go/
  • How Hard Have Paris Olympians Climbed on Rock?

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The group competing in Paris aren't just the best on plastic, they're also some of the best on rock The post How Hard Have Paris Olympians Climbed on Rock? appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/how-hard-have-paris-olympians-climbed-on-rock/
  • Siegrist Climbs Martial Law 5.15a in U.S.A.

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/siegrist-climbs-martial-law-5-15a-in-u-s-a/
  • 0 Votes
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    ClimbingZineC
    https://climbingzine.com/guerreras-by-zach-clanton-an-excerpt-from-volume-24/