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Part of a continuing series of looking at strength of anchors, gear, and knots. How strong is a belay loop? How about a rope after you stomp on it with a crampon? Can I trust that rappel anchor made with old, sun bleached webbing? Learn the answers to these and more. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-strong-is-it-gear-part-1

The 2:1 haul is a fundamental system in rope rescue. If you use a progress capture pulley, there are two places you can put it: on the load, and on the anchor. There are pros and cons to each; learn ‘em here.  Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//two-ways-to-rig-a-21-c-haul

When lowering off and cleaning an overhanging route, you may have a problem at the bottom quick draw. If you unclip that and let go, you're probably gonna take a big swing, which may be into something dangerous. Here are two techniques to solve this problem. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-safely-clean-an-overhanging-route

Hauling isn't just for big walls; pulling up your pack on a small diameter cord can be a lot nicer than having it on your back. Here's a great way to set up an ergonomic hauling system that's simple, fast, and lets you lift with your legs, not your arms. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/foot-haul-your-pack-on-a-multi-pitch

Hauling isn't just for big walls; pulling up your pack on a small diameter cord can be a lot nicer than having it on your back. Here's a great way to set up an ergonomic hauling system that's simple, fast, and lets you lift with your legs, not your arms. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/foot-haul-your-pack-on-a-multi-pitch-8lg4j

Being able to see in real time on your phone if you’re on public lands or not is helpful for all kinds of things, especially finding free dispersed camping spots. Here’s how to use some modern mapping tools like Caltopo and Gaia GPS to do this. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/find-free-camping-on-public-lands-with-these-mapping-tools

Being able to see in real time on your phone if you’re on public lands or not is helpful for all kinds of things, especially finding free dispersed camping spots. Here’s how to use some modern mapping tools like Caltopo and Gaia GPS to do this. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-to-find-public-lands-with-map-software/apps1

Do you have a 3:1 hauling system set up, and need a little extra pulling power? Here's a simple way to turn it into a 5:1 with minimal extra gear. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/hauling-systems-boost-your-31-to-a-51

Five bite sized, quick tips of best practices. In this post: 1) “boosting” a low anchor, 2) rope pull tip for a traversing rappel, 3) how a redirect increases anchor loading, 4) why you don't need an overhand knot on a tied loop anchor, and 5) how to set up a lower with a Grigri.  Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-6

Expert American alpinist Colin Haley is known for a few things: an expertise for routes in Patagonia, and a tremendous obsession with climbing gear. Check out this great video interview where he offers a free ranging commentary on equipment he’s designed, customized, and uses regularly. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/whats-in-my-pack-gear-obsession-by-colin-haley

Expert American alpinist Colin Haley is known for a few things: an expertise for routes in Patagonia, and a tremendous obsession with climbing gear. Check out this great video interview where he offers a free ranging commentary on equipment he’s designed, customized, and uses regularly. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//whats-in-my-pack-gear-obsession-by-colin-haley-part-2

We've all wondered - how strong is it? The Alpinesavvy web gnomes scoured the web to find some break testing for common (and not so common) gear, knots and rigging. Start here for an overview, and then head over to the more detailed articles. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-strong-is-it-overview

We've all wondered - how strong is it? Here's an overview of various flavors of anchor rigging, and links to actual break testing. I'll post part 2 once I get a few more! https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/how-strong-is-it-anchors-part-1x

Five more quick tips on best practices. This post covers: 1) When to untie your rappel stopper knot, 2) the proper direction for a Grigri when belaying from the anchor, 3) how not to carry your satcom device, 4) how to shorten a sewn loop daisy chain, and 5) why to keep your anchor low on a tree. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-5

Five more quick tips on best practices. This post covers: 1) When to untie your rappel stopper knot, 2) the proper direction for a Grigri when belaying from the anchor, 3) how not to carry your satcom device, 4) how to shorten a sewn loop daisy chain, and 5) why to keep your anchor low on a tree. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-4-stp5w

A double loop bowline on a bight is a good starting point for various types of anchors. Here's one application, the “fisheye”. Make a three-piece anchor with a 120 cm sling? Yep! Learn all about it here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-fish-eye-anchor

It's easy to get crosseyed looking at a pulley system and trying to figure out the mechanical advantage. Fortunately, there's an easy way to calculate it, requiring the math skills of a third grader. (Yes, you can do this.) Let’s learn the “T method.” Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//using-the-t-method-to-calculate-mechanical-advantage

At some point, all climbers will have to rappel down an unknown route. Here are some solid tips to hopefully get you down in one piece, without creating too many (epic) stories to tell later. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/rappelling-into-the-unknown

Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/climbing-tips-do-this-not-that-part-4

Aid climbing requires lots of fixed rope ascending. The traditional way to do this is using your ”lead” ladders. However, an adjustable, comfortable and lightweight stirrup is a superior tool. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/stirrups-for-rope-ascending