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Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 4)

General News
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  • Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up.


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  • 2025 American Alpine Club Gala Awards

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Discover their incredible stories, then join us for the 2025 American Alpine Club Gala to hear more! Brooke Raboutou grew up in Boulder, CO, where she began climbing at age two. At 11, Raboutou sent Welcome to Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain, becoming the youngest person to climb the route. From 2020 to 2022, Raboutou pushed bouldering grades, sending Muscle Car (V14), The Atomator (V13), The Shining (V12/13), The Wheel of Chaos (V13), Doppelgänger Poltergeist (V13), Jade (V14), Euro Trash (V12/8a+), Low Low (V13/8b) Trieste (V14), Heritage (V13), La Proue (V13), Lur (V14), Evil Backwards (V13). Raboutou was the first American to qualify for the Olympics, and during the Tokyo Olympics in 2021, she finished 5th.  In October 2023, Raboutou sent Box Therapy in Rocky Mountain National Park and promptly downgraded it from V16 to V15. In 2024, Raboutou won silver in the combined bouldering and lead competition at the Paris Olympics, becoming the first American woman to win an Olympic medal in climbing. In April 2025, Raboutou sent Excalibur (5.15c), becoming the first woman to send the grade.  Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of national advocacy organizations that includes American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, the Mountaineers, the American Alpine Club, the Mazamas, the Colorado Mountain Club, and the Surfrider Foundation. For more than ten years, Outdoor Alliance has united the human-powered outdoor recreation community to achieve lasting conservation victories. Its work has helped to permanently protect 40 million acres of public land, secure $5.1 billion in funding for the outdoors, and convert more than 100,000 outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor advocates. Adam Cramer will be accepting the award on behalf of Outdoor Alliance. He is the founding Executive Director and present CEO of Outdoor Alliance. During his time as CEO, Adam has brought new sensibilities to conservation work that have resulted in hundreds of thousands more acres of protected landscapes, improved management for outdoor recreation, and thousands of outdoor enthusiasts awakened to conservation and advocacy work. He is an avid whitewater kayaker and mountain biker, but is always on the lookout for a good skatepark.  For 52 years, Jack Tackle has focused on alpine climbing, particularly first ascents, in the Himalayas, South America, and Alaska. Jack Tackle is best known for his climbing in Alaska. He has done 35 separate trips, combining both attempts and successes since 1976, and completed 17 significant first ascents in Alaska’s various ranges. Tackle is a past Board member of the AAC (nine years) and served as Treasurer of the AAC from 2009-2012. He has been a member of the AAC since 1978. He presently serves on the Pinnacle and Grand Teton Climber Ranch committees and is the chairman of the AAC Cutting Edge Grant committee. For 30 years, Tackle was an independent sales rep for outdoor brands, including Patagonia, Black Diamond Equipment, and Vasque Footwear. In addition, Tackle guided for Exum Mountain Guides in the Tetons for 40 years, from 1982 to 2022. Michael Wejchert began climbing as a scared ten-year-old in a swami belt. Now a scared thirty-nine-year-old, rock and ice climbing remain his overriding passion. He began writing about climbing in high school and hasn't stopped. In 2013, he won the Waterman Fund Essay Contest for a piece called Epigoni, Revisited, about a failed attempt to climb Mount Deborah in the Hayes Range of Alaska. His first book, Hidden Mountains, won a National Outdoor Book Award in 2023. His essays and features have appeared in virtually every North American climbing magazine and major media outlets: Alpinist, Ascent, Rock & Ice, Appalachia, and the New York Times, to name a few. He is a proud contributing editor at the new Summit Journal. He lives just down the road from Cathedral Ledge, New England's finest trad cliff. As an undersized kid who wanted to be a cowboy, Kelly Cordes never dreamed that climbing would define his life. But he stumbled upon an obsession that took him to places of unimaginable beauty and infused his world with meaning. He established challenging alpine routes in Alaska, Peru, Patagonia, and Pakista... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/7/9/2025-american-alpine-club-gala-awards
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    ClimbingZineC
    The beauty is in the simplicity. A hunger fed by nature, a modern way of experiencing nature. We were driven out there for different reasons—some of us introduced to rock climbing at a young age, in a responsible manner. For others, including myself, it was trial by fire. note: this is an excerpt from American… https://climbingzine.com/climbing-mount-analogue-an-excerpt-from-american-climber/
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    JRD3DUJ
    My good friend before the first bolt in #smithrock, the birthplace of North American #sportclimbing. #2009 #throwback #nofilter #climbinglife #rockclimb #climberlicious . . . . #climbing #neverstopexploring #rockedup #mountainhardwear #outdoorclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion #liveclimbrepeat #rockclimbingshoes #livetravelchannel #TravelStoke #justgoshoot #theculturetrip #perspective #lessismoreoutdoors #onthelighterside #oregon #canon
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    GrippedG
    Legendary climbers Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler make remote first ascent over seven days The post Alpinists, 74 and 68 Years Old, Climb Matterhorn-Like Karakoram Peak appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alpinists-74-and-68-years-old-climb-matterhorn-like-karakoram-peak/
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    UK ClimbingU
    Celebrating 50 years of inspiring adventures worldwide, Osprey, the renowned pack specialist, is marking this milestone with the launch of an epic competition, offering the chance to win up to 7500 towards an unforgettable adventure. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774961
  • Alex Megos climbs Change, 9b+

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    UK ClimbingU
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774102
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    UK ClimbingU
    Miho Nonaka, one of the top female competition climbers in the world, is set on competing in the 2024 Olympic Games. The Japanese-born athlete is no stranger to the high-level world of competitive climbing. In 2021 at the Tokyo Games, Nonaka won Olympic Silver. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772138
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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/profiles/visiting-squamish-in-2024-heres-which-guidebook-you-should-get/