Wonder if it's worth asking for #bouldering or #climbing #beta on Mastodon?
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Wonder if it's worth asking for #bouldering or #climbing #beta on Mastodon? How do I get my toe onto the chip below the sloper? The top hold is sloper on top, a flat crimp/undercling underneath. The chip is the same shape but angled to the right...
Beta please?
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Benjamin Allocco Is Writingreplied to Jeztastic last edited by
It's hard to give beta from the ground, and I can't see where the next holds are, but I would suggest bump right right foot up to the higher foot hold, then mantle off the big sloper to shift your bodyweight more to the right. See if that gets you the leverage to get your left foot on the chip.
It looks like a stretch, either way, though.
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Benjamin Allocco Is Writingreplied to Jeztastic last edited by
Looking again... Yeah, I think you need to rotate your right foot so your toes face left. Body should be facing left, allowing you to get your left foot up. (I think, haha)
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pmonks (330ppm)replied to Benjamin Allocco Is Writing last edited by
@benjaminallocco @jeztastic That was my first thought too - your left foot may end up dangling as you “press out” between your right foot (on the higher hold out right) and your left hand palming down on the larger sloper above the chip.
Obvs. impossible to be sure without being there and feeling it out, but do let us know how you get on - it looks fun!
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pmonks (330ppm)replied to Benjamin Allocco Is Writing last edited by
@benjaminallocco @jeztastic Yeah rotating the left hand so the fingers point to the left will give a few cms more reach too.
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@jeztastic Hard to say indeed. If the other suggestions fail: how about turning your left hip into the wall and putting the left foot "behind" you. I.e.: bend the left knee, put your left foot on with the toe pointing downwards/to the right.
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Wow, great response, thanks everyone. I wonder whether it's worth starting a climbingbeta group? Not sure how one goes about this but I can check it out. Will certainly update with what if anything gets me the send.
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@ives Yes another climber managed it like this.
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@pmonks @benjaminallocco OK this makes sense. Will try this. What doesn't come across though is how much I'm relying on the 2 finger crimp to pull me onto the wall. It's awkwardly placed.
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Benjamin Allocco Is Writingreplied to Jeztastic last edited by
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Jeztasticreplied to Benjamin Allocco Is Writing last edited by
@benjaminallocco @pmonks Oh it's a vert actually, should have said. Camera angle deceptive.
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@jeztastic Looks like a press move. The key is generally to get the arm locked *before* you do the move and rotate into it, so:
1. Make sure you place your toes carefully so you can rotate on the right foot - you'll need to turn into the move towards the end
2. turn your left hand to palm the other way - i.e. fingers facing out so your shoulder is externally rotated
3. Ok, now for the move: Twist your left shoulder in towards the wall, externally rotating it until the elbow is locked out. To acheive this, you will need to bend your right knee and push your upper body forwards over that foot.
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@jeztastic
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4. Once the elbow is locked, engage your core and lift through the hip, pushing the hip upand the knee even more over the right foot, mantaining the tension between locked right arm and pressing right foot. Your left leg will come off the hold and dangle - it can be used for balance.
5. As the hip lifts, rotate your body back towards the left hand (be careful to keep your core tension and your hip as close to the line between hand and foot as possible. The left palm may rotate on the hold, the right foto definitely will. Keep lifting the hips and pushing your core back somewhat towards the foot.
6. If done correctly, you should end up more or less leaning forwards onto your left hand and should be able to bring the left foot up under it to the hold (or even a hand/foot match)
7. If you can't get the foot up high enough, push the hips back further, sliding them along the wall.Hope that helps.
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D devnull moved this topic from Uncategorized
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@jeztastic How about placing your right foot a little further to the right so that you have more room to move with your left foot?
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@jeztastic and maybe you could turn your left hand 180 degrees during the upward movement
