Wonder if it's worth asking for #bouldering or #climbing #beta on Mastodon?

[jeztastic@mastodonapp.uk]

@ives Yes another climber managed it like this.

[jeztastic@mastodonapp.uk]

@pmonks @benjaminallocco OK this makes sense. Will try this. What doesn't come across though is how much I'm relying on the 2 finger crimp to pull me onto the wall. It's awkwardly placed.

[benjaminallocco@universeodon.com]

@jeztastic @pmonks

Yeah it looks deceptively overhanging haha

Def let us know how it goes!!

[jeztastic@mastodonapp.uk]

@benjaminallocco @pmonks Oh it's a vert actually, should have said. Camera angle deceptive.

[jcmchammy@mountains.social]

@jeztastic Looks like a press move. The key is generally to get the arm locked *before* you do the move and rotate into it, so:
1. Make sure you place your toes carefully so you can rotate on the right foot - you'll need to turn into the move towards the end
2. turn your left hand to palm the other way - i.e. fingers facing out so your shoulder is externally rotated
3. Ok, now for the move: Twist your left shoulder in towards the wall, externally rotating it until the elbow is locked out. To acheive this, you will need to bend your right knee and push your upper body forwards over that foot.
1/2

[jcmchammy@mountains.social]

@jeztastic
2/2
4. Once the elbow is locked, engage your core and lift through the hip, pushing the hip upand the knee even more over the right foot, mantaining the tension between locked right arm and pressing right foot. Your left leg will come off the hold and dangle - it can be used for balance.
5. As the hip lifts, rotate your body back towards the left hand (be careful to keep your core tension and your hip as close to the line between hand and foot as possible. The left palm may rotate on the hold, the right foto definitely will. Keep lifting the hips and pushing your core back somewhat towards the foot.
6. If done correctly, you should end up more or less leaning forwards onto your left hand and should be able to bring the left foot up under it to the hold (or even a hand/foot match)
7. If you can't get the foot up high enough, push the hips back further, sliding them along the wall.

Hope that helps.

[devnull]

@jeztastic@mastodonapp.uk totally worth asking! The OpenBeta forum is federating, so we're trying to build up a climber community here.

[devnull]

@jeztastic@mastodonapp.uk feel free to mention @general and it will automatically be boosted on the OpenBeta forum

[perry@swiss.social]

@jeztastic How about placing your right foot a little further to the right so that you have more room to move with your left foot?

[perry@swiss.social]

@jeztastic and maybe you could turn your left hand 180 degrees during the upward movement