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    GrippedG
    Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama and Yasushi Okada's historic Mount Logan climb included an alpine whipper, technical mixed and deep snow. They graded I-TO at ED+ WI5 M6 The post The Epic First Ascent of a 2,500-Metre Alpine Wall on Canada’s Tallest Mountain appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-epic-first-ascent-of-a-2500-metre-alpine-wall-on-canadas-tallest-mountain/
  • The Line: A Climb for Kei Taniguchi

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In 2009, Kei Taniguchi from Japan became the first woman to win a Piolet d’Or (along with climbing partner Kazyua Hiraide) for a new route up 7,756-meter Kamet in India. Tragically, neither Taniguchi nor Hiraide are still with us. In AAJ 2025, we’re publishing a story by Akihiro Oishi, Taniguchi’s biographer, who set out to complete a route she had attempted years earlier in Nepal. We’re sharing part of Oishi’s story here. “Mr. Hagiwara, what mountain is this?” The question was asked by Kei Taniguchi as she looked at a picture taken by Hiroshi Hagiwara, editor of Rock and Snow, in 2013. The photo showed the unclimbed northeast face of Pandra (6,673 meters) in eastern Nepal. In 2016, Taniguchi attempted Pandra with Junji Wada, retreating from two-thirds height (AAJ 2017). On return to Japan she wrote, “I’ve opened Pandora’s Box. I will definitely go back to check what’s inside.” Tragically, a month later, she fell to her death from Mt. Kurodake in Japan. I interviewed many people to compile a book about Kei’s life, called A Piece of the Sun. In the final chapter, I hoped to incorporate a scene in which some of us, including Wada, climbed Pandra. However, Wada was seriously injured just before our team was due to leave Japan, and the expedition was postponed. Finally, in 2024, eight years after Kei’s accident, I went to Pandra with Suguru Takayanagi and Hiroki Suzuki to complete Kei’s route. Wada had become a family man, starting a new life. We arrived at our 5,100-meter base camp on October 12. The approach to advanced base and the face itself had changed significantly in eight years due to global warming: The northeast face looked far drier than in pictures taken by the French team that completed the first route up the face. [In October 2017, one year after the attempt by Taniguchi and Wada, French climbers Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, and Benjamin Védrines completed Peine Plancher (1,200m, WI6 M6; see AAJ 2018).] After acclimatization, we left advanced base for Pandra at 7 a.m. on October 25. It took three hours to reach the foot of the wall, after which we climbed to a bivouac site at 5,500 meters, where we pitched the tent using a snow hammock. The climbing to this point, following the line taken by Taniguchi and Wada, had involved crumbling rock and brittle ice. On day two, we climbed three pitches of excellent, steep alpine ice, dubbed the Pandra Great Icicle. Above, a couloir with poor protection and belays cut through the center of the face, and at 5,800 meters we made our second bivouac. On the 27th, we headed directly toward the summit. [From around this point or below, in 2016, Taniguchi and Wada traversed to the north spur; the 2024 team continued direct and joined the line of the 2017 French route, which came in from the left.] At around 6,000 meters, the French party had found a pitch of M6. Takayanagi, who is about ten years younger than us, onsighted that pitch easily—he should achieve great things in the Himalaya. At 6,200 meters, we found a bivouac site beneath a rock outcrop. The next morning, we left our bivouac gear and headed for the top. Takayanagi climbed an overhang that was much more difficult than the M6 the day before. We then climbed ice and difficult sugar snow, with little meaningful protection, to reach a snow cave at around 6,500 meters after dark. We shivered through the night in just the clothes we were wearing. With Suzuki in the lead, it took only 30 minutes to reach the top the next morning. Suzuki shouted, “Whoa, we did it!” I’ve been climbing with him for 20 years, but this was the first time I’d heard a serious roar. By 4 p.m. we had returned to our snow cave, and the following day we rappelled to the base. We named our route A Piece of the Sun. It will continue to burn in our hearts and guide us toward greater mountains.                   —Akihiro Oishi, Japan, with help from Kaoru Wada, Hiroshi Hagiwara, and Rodolphe Popier 2004 Taniguchi and Kazuya Hiraide complete a https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/8/12/the-line
  • Skier Missing on Denali, Search Underway

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    A press release from the National Park Service said bad weather has delayed the search and rescue operation The post Skier Missing on Denali, Search Underway appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/skier-missing-on-denali-search-underway/
  • Over $40,000 in Cash Up for Grabs for Climbers

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Apply by the end of January to get support for your 2025 objective The post Over $40,000 in Cash Up for Grabs for Climbers appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/over-40000-in-cash-up-for-grabs-for-climbers/
  • New Patagonia Granite Splitter Alpine Routes

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Good weather windows are resulting in several new routes throughout the region The post New Patagonia Granite Splitter Alpine Routes appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-patagonia-granite-splitter-alpine-routes/
  • A 65-day Climbing Expedition to Greenland

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Watch Sea to Summit, a film that features a multi-month adventure in the Arctic to establish new big wall routes The post A 65-day Climbing Expedition to Greenland appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/a-65-day-climbing-expedition-to-greenland/
  • 0 Votes
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euM23FI3xho
  • 0 Votes
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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/skills/sport-climbing/topropers/