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  • Rethinking single pitch anchors

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Can we improve single pitch “clip and lower” anchors? This anchor ticks all the boxes for low cost, simplicity, security, longevity, and more. See all the details, variations, and cost breakdown here. Normally, I publish a complete version of my articles for my Premium Members, and a shortened version of articles on the public part of my website. However, for this article, I'm changing that.  Because I want this to reach the largest possible audience, I'm posting the entire article here on the public part of my website. Inspiration and peer review for this article is from Kevin Maliczak, aka ClimbingTaiwan. Connect on his Instagram @climbingtaiwan and YouTube. Thanks to Evan Wisheropp for peer review of this article. Connect with Evan on Instagram, @evanwisheropp https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/rethinking-single-pitch-anchors
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    UK ClimbingU
    Over the course of one and a half days, Siebe Vanhee has made the first rope solo ascent of the 450 metre Voie Petit (8b) at Mont Blanc du Tacul in the French Alps. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=782755
  • Rock Climbing History Made in Yosemite

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Kate Kelleghan and Laura Pineau have climbed the Yosemite Triple in under 24 hours The post Rock Climbing History Made in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/rock-climbing-history-made-in-yosemite/
  • Adam Ondra to Visit Gyms Around the World

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The La Sportiva World Tour kicks off this week and will continue throughout the summer The post Adam Ondra to Visit Gyms Around the World appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-to-visit-gyms-around-the-world/
  • Austin Purdy Repeats a 25-Move V16

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Drew Ruana's Bookkeeping V16 climbs more like a short route than a boulder The post Austin Purdy Repeats a 25-Move V16 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/austin-purdy-repeats-a-25-move-v16/
  • New SCARPA SHOES + Finger FORCE TESTING

    Videos climbing
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5HsubQFVBA
  • Denver to Host Its First-Ever World Cup

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The World Cup circuit is coming back to Colorado in 2025 The post Denver to Host Its First-Ever World Cup appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/denver-to-host-its-first-ever-world-cup/
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]