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21 Aug 2024, 19:29

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    Wild as it may seem, every year we publish at least one report of a climber getting their knee stuck in an offwidth crack. Sound crazy? It happened to Martin Boysen on Trango Tower and more recently Jason Kruk on Boogie Till You Puke.  On January 8, Climber 1 (female, 25) got her knee stuck in a wide crack on the Regular Route (3 pitches, 5.7) on Queen Victoria Spire in Sedona. Climber 1 was following four friends on her first outdoor climb when she attempted an ā€œalpine kneeā€ while pulling onto a ledge on the second pitch. An ā€œalpine kneeā€ is when you place that joint on top of a high hold and use it for progress, instead of a foot. Rather than helping her onto the ledge, Climber 1ā€™s knee slipped into a four-inch-wide crack, where it wedged and became stuck. Others in her party tried pouring water over her knee in an attempt to free it but were unsuccessful.  At 5:15 p.m., the Coconino County Sheriffā€™s department was contacted to perform a rescue. By 8 p.m., the SAR team had arrived. It took over an hour to free the climber from the crack, and by then the climber was exhibiting signs of mild hypothermia (they had started climbing at 12:30 p.m.). The climbing party was airlifted off the spire. The stuck climber was not injured and refused treatment. The climbers in this scenario did ā€œeverything right,ā€ according to the SAR team. They tried to free their partner, and failing that, they initiated a rescue. Many relatively easy routes have awkward sections or styles of climbing that may seem above the technical grade when first encountered outdoors. Care should be taken when making a move where a slip or fall could result in injury or entrapment. It took about four hours to free this climber, and temperatures at the crag dropped to around 30Ā°F. Consider worst-case scenarios when preparing for a climb, as unexpected events could result in prolonged exposure to the elements. (Source: Dan Apodaca.)  If getting your knee stuck in an offwidth is so common, what do we do if it happens? In the video analysis, ANAC editor Pete Takeda provides some tips on how to prepare for this kind of worst-case scenario when rock climbing. Credits: Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and Hannah Provost, Content Director; Producer: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney @fosterdoodle_; Editor: Sierra McGivney @Sierra_McGivney; Location: Cob Rock, Boulder Canyon, CO https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/3/12/prescriptionknee
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    Award-winning writer Katie Ives talks about finding a voice through climbing and writing The post Strange Places, a Story by Author Katie Ives appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/uncategorized/strange-places-a-story-by-author-katie-ives/
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    America's National Parks employees keep people safe and the environment clean, and there was already an understaffing crisis The post National Park Seasonal Employees Lose Jobs appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/national-park-seasonal-employees-lose-jobs/
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    Conrad Anker, Jon Krakauer, Melissa Arnot Reid, and other prominent climbers and guides share their thoughts on the president's decision to rename North America's highest mountain https://www.climbing.com/news/trump-renames-denali/
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    Luke Mehall reads ā€œThe Dirtbags Arenā€™t Dead, Theyā€™re Just In Mexicoā€ published in the new issue of The Climbing Zine, Volume 25, now available. Photo by Ivan Ioza https://shop.climbingzine.com/ Our sponsors for Season 6:  Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email holds@kiltergrips.com for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Mountain Project / OnX: https://www.mountainproject.com/ Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Black Diamond: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/ https://climbingzine.com/the-dirtbags-arent-dead-theyre-just-in-mexico/
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    Rappelling isnā€™t the only way to get down a cliff; another option is the self-lower. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ā€˜em here. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/descend-by-self-lowering
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    This week's Friday Night Video followsAngus Kille as he tries to make an E9 first ascent in the last few days before his daughter is born. Bringing this route to life parallels his journey of becoming a father: patresence. Follow his journey with the route, how to train for bold climbs, his thoughts on being in the waiting room of fa... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=776062
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rbBaczlajo