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A 65-day Climbing Expedition to Greenland

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7 Dec 2024, 19:00

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    Silent SundayRelaxing after a morning climbing on the sea cliffs in Faroe#SilentSunday #Climbing #Faroe #Vágar
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    A 5.14d redpoint and 5.14b onsight are highlights of her recent short trip to Oliana The post More Big Sends for Laura Rogora appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/more-big-sends-for-laura-rogora/
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    Adam Ondra has made the fourth ascent of Simon Lorenzi's 9A boulder The Big Island (assis)/Soudain Seul, in Fontainebleau, France. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=778693
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    Cheers to soft, careful catches! https://www.climbing.com/videos/big-fall-off-5-12-trad-second-ascent/
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    Michael Gardner 1991-2024 We are deeply saddened by the death of Michael Gardner: a great alpinist and a vibrant life.  Michael was on an expedition funded by the AAC’s Cutting Edge Grant, attempting the unclimbed north face of Jannu East in Nepal with his long time climbing partner Sam Hennessey, when he fell to his death on October 7th, 2024. We are grateful that Hennessey is safe after the incident.  There have been so many tributes to Mike in the last few days that attest to his incredible empathy, enthusiasm, dedication to the craft of climbing, pure motivations and lack of ego. Indeed, his quiet pursuit of the mountains on his own terms means his legacy is not flashy, but found in traces and in the background—he was climbing and skiing for the sake of the craft, not for recognition. Yet he was repeatedly the preferred partner for Cutting Edge Grant recipients like Hennessey, and his name appeared again and again in the American Alpine Journal over the last few years, for his new routes, fast ascents of iconic faces, and creative ski alpinism. Rather than listing his great ascents here, and reducing him to a list of accomplishments, we encourage all who knew him, all who were inspired by him, to dive into the AAJ stories that feature him—as a way to walk, for a brief moment, alongside him in the memories of some of his greatest life experiences in the mountains. The mountains called him back again and again, whether it was to put up a new rock route on Mt. Owens, Renny Take the Wheel (1,500’, 8 pitches, IV 5.11), or envision the first ascent of Hot Cars and Fast Women (850m, M6+) with Hennessey on Denali’s Ridge of No Return. Mike and Sam were also simply fast. Their second ascent of Light Traveler (M7) on the southwest face of Denali in 2018 was not only the fastest for this route at the time, but for any of the four routes generally considered to be most difficult on Denali’s south and southwest faces: the Denali Diamond, McCartney-Roberts, Light Traveler, and Slovak Direct. In 2022, they upped the ante when they joined up with Rob Smith to climb the Slovak Direct in 17 hours and 10 min. In next year’s 2025 AAJ, his more recent mountain adventures will live on, testifying to the kind of life he shaped for himself, including a new route on Mt. Hunter, a massive ski link-up in the Tetons, and a new route on the Grand Teton.  Reading through these stories, you can see the creativity and quiet passion he brought to his climbing, and to his life.  Describing his conflicted relationship to the mountains in an article for Alpinist in 2022, Mike writes how, when he climbs: “An indescribable awareness of place and peace takes hold. On the other hand, there are consequences to devoting yourself to the mountains. I know them intimately, and yet year after year, death after death, I continue to climb.” We can’t know if Mike would have thought it was all worth it. All we can do is honor the incredible void his death has left behind.  Our thoughts are with Michael’s family and climbing partners. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/10/18/a-tribute-to-michael-gardner
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    Important information about the dos and don'ts on THE most important knot in #climbing and some myth busting.And here I thought it was all tested and proven about the humble figure eight.I've never used that yosemite finish, and I don't think I'll ever will. The stopper knot in the tail is enough and it doesn't really bother me particularly.I actually do like tails but that a whole different conversation https://youtu.be/nUCR_W-xCqY?si=3-A-1FABJ_4LWmht
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mndsMotVWQ
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    Some rivalries are just as career-defining as the actual accolades athletes earn on the wall. https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/7-greatest-comp-climbing-rivalries-ever/