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Product test: Which one is GP1? The answer may surprise you.

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  • American Alpine ClubA

    The Prescription—Anchor Failure

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    This month we feature an accident that occurred in 2024 on Yosemite’s Manure Pile Buttress when a climber mistied a knot. You can reference this accident in this years Accidents in North American Climbing (page 46). The knot involved was bulky and involved multiple strands of webbing, brought together to tie a single anchor loop. The average climber only needs to know several simple knots but sometimes, even experts can get it wrong. This climber was lucky and escaped with minor injuries. On June 24, 2024 during the American Alpine Club’s United in Yosemite Climbing Festival, a climber led the first pitch of After Six (5.7). At the belay tree, they set up a lowering anchor using a knot on a quad-length sling with two locking carabiners. The climber weighted the rope and lowered. He cleaned the top piece of gear (a camming device). Below, a second cam proved too tight to remove so he unclipped it. The climber continued to lower. At the third piece from the top, the anchor knot failed. The climber fell 80 feet before the belayer caught his fall, when the climber was about five feet above the ground. The climber was lowered and SAR was called. His injuries included a sprained ankle, lacerations on the face, a broken nose, and rope burns on the hands and fingers.  A slipknot looks deceptively like other knots you'd use in a climbing anchor, but when you actually load it, it's not going to hold much at all. Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and IFMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin, are back to explain how a slipknot can have serious consequences when used in climbing anchors. Credits: Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing; IFMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin; Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney; Editor: Sierra McGivney; Location: Accessibility Crag, Clear Creek, CO. The climber was fortunate that he had high protection that stopped him from hitting the ground when the anchor failed and lots of slack was introduced into the belay system. The anchor sling was found with an intact overhand knot. The belayer, who wishes to remain anonymous, wrote to ANAC: “We believe it was an attempted overhand knot but it was actually a slipknot.” The still-locked masterpoint carabiners were found clipped to the rope by the fallen climber.  *Editor’s Note: After analysis, it was determined that the climber had attempted to tie an overhand knot but failed to pull the two end strands completely through the knot. He then clipped the two locking carabiners through the unsecured loops. Since there were so many strands of webbing in the mix, it was hard to tell the difference between a fixed loop and a slip loop. When weighted, the slip loops had sufficient friction and compression to hold, if only momentarily, while the ends gradually crept toward release. (Sources: Anonymous and ANAC Canada Editor Robert Chisnall.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/11/12/the-prescription
  • American Alpine ClubA

    Softening to Grief, with Therapist Ash Langholz

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    For this episode of the AAC podcast, we’re having a conversation with therapist Ashlee Langholz about grief, traumatic grief, and how the Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) can support climbers and other mountain athletes who are experiencing loss. While we’ve had a few CGF grant recipients on the podcast in recent years to reflect on their personal journeys with grief, this episode is more about demystifying grief therapy and what Ash has learned throughout the years of professionally supporting people in their grief journey. Plus, our host delves into some of her own personal experiences with the topic. Do you need mental health services as you grapple with loss and injury related to the mountains and mountain sports? Apply to the Climbing Grief Fund today at americanalpineclub.org/grieffund. Learn More About Climbing Grief Fund View the CGF Directory of Therapists Learn More About Ash Langholz and her services https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/8/28/softening-to-grief
  • HowNOT2H

    Big Hangers

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpPOYnnW6iE
  • GrippedG

    Five Tips to Start Trad Climbing This Summer

    General News climbing
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    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    121 Views
    GrippedG
    Trad climbing can open up a world of opportunities at crags and on peaks around North America The post Five Tips to Start Trad Climbing This Summer appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/five-tips-to-start-trad-climbing-this-summer/
  • ClimbingZineC

    The Art of The Belaytionship with Andy Vo

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    1 Posts
    204 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    Our premiere for Season 7: a conversation with Andy Vo. Our sponsors for Season 6:  Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email holds@kiltergrips.com for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ https://climbingzine.com/the-art-of-the-belaytionship-with-andy-vo/
  • GrippedG

    National Park Seasonal Employees Lose Jobs

    General News climbing
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    1 Posts
    133 Views
    GrippedG
    America's National Parks employees keep people safe and the environment clean, and there was already an understaffing crisis The post National Park Seasonal Employees Lose Jobs appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/national-park-seasonal-employees-lose-jobs/
  • AlpineSavvyA

    Head scratcher: can you solve this rappel problem?

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    1 Posts
    138 Views
    AlpineSavvyA
    Think you're good at solving climbing problems on the fly? See if you can figure out this one! https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/head-scratcher-can-you-solve-this-rappel-problem
  • ClimbingZineC

    The Mom Crux with Mallory Logan (co-hosted by Shaun Matusewicz)

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    1 Posts
    173 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    We finally get to sit down with Mallory Logan, the Art Director for The Climbing Zine, to have a conversation about the history of The Zine and Dirtbag State of Mind. Plus the crux of being a Mom. Co-hosted by Shaun Matusewicz, our Publisher Emeritus. Zine links: Support our podcast on Patreon KEEP THE ZINE… https://climbingzine.com/the-mom-crux-with-mallory-logan-co-hosted-by-shaun-matusewicz/