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Olympic Gold Medalist Sends 5.15a in Spain

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Evan Hau is a pro climber, but most Americans still don’t know his name. He’s the first Canadian to climb 5.15a, and swears his success comes from consistently honing his strengths (and mostly ignoring his weaknesses). In this episode, we chat about how he balances pushing his limits, with his tutoring business, and the process of climbing his first 15a, Sacrifice. We cover the magic of the Bow Valley—the epic limestone crags near Canmore, Alberta—as well as what happens when Adam Ondra comes to town to try to flash your proj. We discuss trying hard on long trips, and his send of Death of Villains last year, his second 15a. Plus, we chat about aging as a climber, with his 40th birthday just around the corner. Learn More About Evan Hau Watch Evan Hau’s Process for Sending Sacrifice https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2026/2/13/not-so-undercover-crusher-evan-hau-on-showing-up-and-trying-hard
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Has His Best Bouldering Day Ever

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The Italian climber sent both a V14 and V15 in a single session The post Stefano Ghisolfi Has His Best Bouldering Day Ever appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/stefano-ghisolfi-has-his-best-bouldering-day-ever/
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    UK ClimbingU
    Work has been carried out by the BMC's Land and Property Trust (LPT) at the BMC-owned site of Horseshoe Quarry to allow access for emergency vehicles and people using wheelchairs and mobility scooters. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779925
  • Hard New 16-Pitch Alpine Route in Alps

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The 500-metre climb took three days with the first ascent team climbing pitches in the M8 range The post Hard New 16-Pitch Alpine Route in Alps appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/hard-new-16-pitch-alpine-route-near-chamonix/
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    GrippedG
    An essay by the late Marv Dean about an adventurous February day in the Canadian Rockies at a time before ice climbing became a mainstream sport The post A Story from 1982 About Ice Climbing Weepinig Wall with Jeff Marshall appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/a-story-from-1982-about-ice-climbing-weepinig-wall-with-jeff-marshall/
  • American Mountaineering Center Update

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Since 1993, the AAC's office, library, and museum have been located in the American Mountaineering Center (AMC) in Golden, CO. Over the past few years, the AAC and Colorado Mountain Club have evaluated the AMC's future, including the option to sell the building that we have owned, managed, and occupied together. We are pleased to share that we sold the AMC building today, September 10, 2024. The AAC will continue to occupy the building while we work to envision a future location that will help us deliver on our mission and continue to serve our members and donors. The AAC library and museum will close on September 20, 2024, to allow for cataloging and inventorying. During this transitionary period, the library will cease new scanning requests, new research requests, and book sales. We remain committed to an inspiring future for the AAC library and mountaineering museum that honors the contributions of past donors and members and modernizes these critical resources for future generations. We are proud to have partnered with the Colorado Mountain Club to steward this historic building in the heart of Golden for the past 30 years, and we firmly believe the new owner will continue to care for this important building in its next phase. Lastly, we are grateful to the board of directors, led by Glenn Porzak, who dreamed of bringing the organization to Golden decades ago, and the members and donors who helped make that dream a reality. Your contributions, vision, and foresight brought us to this moment, which presents exciting future possibilities for the Club. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/9/11/american-mountaineering-center-update
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEKjvtV5DPg
  • Nearly 200 Climbers Set for Savage Mountain

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    GrippedG
    Climbers are preparing to attempt K2, Broad Peak and other famous mountains in the Karakoram The post Nearly 200 Climbers Set for Savage Mountain appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/nearly-200-climbers-set-for-savage-mountain/