The popular Shawn Raboutou problem is Bailey's first V17 repeat
The post Sean Bailey Does Alphane V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
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News and media
Share or browse articles, videos, and news about climbing from around the web
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Discussion about OpenBeta (and related projects) development
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Sean Bailey Does Alphane V17
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Newsflash Alphane 9A by Sean Bailey
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Adam Ondra is Finally Projecting DNA 5.15d
Climbers have been hoping to see Adam Ondra try DNA since it was first climbed in 2022
The post Adam Ondra is Finally Projecting DNA 5.15d appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/profiles/adam-ondra-is-finally-projecting-dna-5-15d/
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A Pro’s Advice for Short-Term and Long-Haul Projecting
Cameron Hörst highlights two common hiccups in multi-session projecting—and how you can put them to bed.
https://www.climbing.com/skills/training/pros-advice-projecting-climbs/
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Legendary Alpinist and 18-Year-Old to Try Himalayan Peak in Winter
Simone Moro and Nima Rinji Sherpa will try Manaslu in alpine style - a success would be monumental
The post Legendary Alpinist and 18-Year-Old to Try Himalayan Peak in Winter appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/legendary-alpinist-and-18-year-old-to-try-himalayan-peak-in-winter/
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Climber to Attempt Everest in Winter – a Deadly Undertaking
Only one climber ever has summited the world's highest peak in winter without using supplemental oxygen
The post Climber to Attempt Everest in Winter – a Deadly Undertaking appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
Climber Trying Everest Alone This Winter - Gripped Magazine
Only one climber ever has summited the world's highest peak in winter without using supplemental oxygen
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
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Today, the weather was challenging with intermittent rain, but I still managed to climb three nice routes and take some photos.
Today, the weather was challenging with intermittent rain, but I still managed to climb three nice routes and take some photos.
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The Arc’teryx Beta SL Jacket: A Review
Waterproof, windproof, breathable, and durable – you couldn't ask for anything more in a shell
The post The Arc’teryx Beta SL Jacket: A Review appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/gear/the-arcteryx-beta-sl-jacket-a-review/
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#Karstmas day 7
#Karstmas day 7
Sorry for the delay folks, today was quite busy with a callout with the K9 SAR team. Happy ending!
So this prompted me to write a bit about safety in caving today, in particular with vertical caves (pits). This is quite the famous pit in Alabama, it's on like every top 5 list to visit (best views, best hikes, best waterfalls, best cave...every clickbait list this cave is on). What is unique about it, is that there is a horizontal walk-in entrance as well, where you can get to this view. This is both good...and bad.
When I started caving many moons ago, this cave was privately owned. So only cavers knew about it, and got permission by directly asking to go. Now, it is owned by a cave conservancy, and is much more open to visitation, just requiring a permit which is free and easy to fill out online. This is good - it lets lots of people enjoy this amazing view you think you'd have to travel far away to see. This is also bad - despite having to check off many things when you get the permit, no one *actually reads*, and as a result...well.
See that nice round rock middle bottom? We all call that "The Pedestal". You can climb the rock down to it, the slippery wet rock over a 40+ foot drop. You aren't supposed to free-climb here, but *everyone* does for their Instagram photo.
I'll make this simple: Never be closer than 6 feet (2 meters) from an edge without being tied in to a safety line. If the edge is sloped to the drop-off, that edge starts at the *top of the slope* where if you fell, you could keep rolling. Great rule of thumb for any edge, whether cliff or cave.
In this case, once you are on the Pedestal, you're okay on a section of it. But if you are climbing the rock up to the right, or wanting to go further down, you need to be tied in. People also like to stand at the pit entrance and lean over to look - there's a small tree on the steep slope they hold onto to do so. Yikes!
Guess who has personally been on the team, not once, but TWICE, that has bagged & pulled bodies out of this pit? Yeah. Coroners do not rappel into caves, cave rescue takes the body bag in, documents & photographs, and pull it back out. So, be safe please, around edges. Don't turn yourself into chunky jelly.
It's not worth the photo.
Now this place has a bunch of signs, but, people do stupid shit they aren't supposed to anyway. So I don't go anymore. Not because of the bodies - I have medical background and am not phased doing that stuff - but because I don't want to *watch* people be stupid. It gives me too much anxiety, and ruins my day. Shame, as it really is gorgeous and it used to be an annual summer trip.
So. Be smart. Be safe. Pick living to see more wonderful things over a single moment's photo.
#cave #caves #caving #safety #rescue #recovery #geology #karst #cliff #climbing
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Double Spoc; top rope solo
Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.
There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.
By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.
The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.
Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

Any potential problems I should be considering?
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Will Bosi Sends V14 and V15 Japan Classics
His just released footage of his casual top of the classic Decided V14, which he sent in a single session
The post Will Bosi Sends V14 and V15 Japan Classics appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/will-bosi-sends-v14-and-v15-japan-classics/
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Base Jumper Dies Near Apron in Squamish
The identity of the climber has not been released
The post Base Jumper Dies Near Apron in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/base-jumper-dies-near-apron-in-squamish/
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A 65-day Climbing Expedition to Greenland
Watch Sea to Summit, a film that features a multi-month adventure in the Arctic to establish new big wall routes
The post A 65-day Climbing Expedition to Greenland appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/a-65-day-climbing-expedition-to-greenland/
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The Salajeet Collectors by Amanda Forrest
This story starts and ends with a chicken. On a bright morning in a high valley of the Hindu Kush, the doomed bird lay pinned atop a low stone wall that had been built by local goat herders. One sharp birdie eye looked up into the cloudless sky, the heavens a pale blue, the air…
https://climbingzine.com/the-salajeet-collectors-by-amanda-forrest/
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Wonder if it's worth asking for #bouldering or #climbing #beta on Mastodon?
Wonder if it's worth asking for #bouldering or #climbing #beta on Mastodon? How do I get my toe onto the chip below the sloper? The top hold is sloper on top, a flat crimp/undercling underneath. The chip is the same shape but angled to the right...
Beta please?
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Well, yes.
Well, yes. As a young, fixated climber that’s where I met my wife.
Thirty years ago - this is nothing new! Climbers don’t really *do* anything else, do they?
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All in One Place: Cartoonist Tami Knight Publishes Omnibus
Featuring 215 comics, Secret Plans: Vol. III: 40+ Years of Cartoons for Climbers is available now
The post All in One Place: Cartoonist Tami Knight Publishes Omnibus appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
All in One Place: Cartoonist Tami Knight Publishes Omnibus - Gripped Magazine
Featuring 215 comics, Secret Plans: Vol. III: 40+ Years of Cartoons for Climbers is available now
Gripped Magazine (gripped.com)
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Canadian Becca Frangos Announces Comp Climbing Retirement
After 10 years on the World Cup circuit, the climber hailing from Canmore is stepping away from competitions
The post Canadian Becca Frangos Announces Comp Climbing Retirement appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/canadian-becca-frangos-announces-comp-climbing-retirement/
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