Skip to content

Double Spoc; top rope solo

General Climbing
10 4 568 1
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    This post is deleted!
  • This post is deleted!

    This post is deleted!
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    @devnull
    In general, or specific to the devices?

    Note, I only read/watched information on TRS.

    Regarding devices in general, the most crucial things seem to be carabiner cross loading and devices getting unblocked.

    Regarding general aspects it makes sense to analyse all steps that could fail and check for mitigations.
    Like is doing in their Lead Rope Solo risk analysis video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTTDRX6RTWc).
    But I think more details could/should be included.

  • @devnull
    In general, or specific to the devices?

    Note, I only read/watched information on TRS.

    Regarding devices in general, the most crucial things seem to be carabiner cross loading and devices getting unblocked.

    Regarding general aspects it makes sense to analyse all steps that could fail and check for mitigations.
    Like is doing in their Lead Rope Solo risk analysis video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTTDRX6RTWc).
    But I think more details could/should be included.

    @devnull

    For cross loading, you might have seen the latest video by Yann Camus already
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXVF5zmPt_I

    And for other risks to consider, there is also the episodes on Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo.

  • @devnull

    For cross loading, you might have seen the latest video by Yann Camus already
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXVF5zmPt_I

    And for other risks to consider, there is also the episodes on Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo.

    @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de I actually hadn't seen the latest video Yann put out, so that'll be on the list tonight!

    @HowNOT2's video is actually how I got interested in TRS in the first place! Really good and straightforward explanation of the mechanisms and risks involved.

  • This post is deleted!

    @pmonks@sfba.social @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de That's a good list, although your two thoughts ended up being six 😆

    I've thought a bit about the idea of using two different devices. I was about to pull the trigger on a CAMP Lift, but I wasn't convinced of its safety given its tendency to no longer engage when grabbed or tilted (against a rock perhaps?) — additionally most rope soloists who climb with progress capture devices (again, talking North America) seem to go with the double-trax, which also doesn't satisfy the "two different devices" constraint.

    I will have an ascender (a tibloc + PAS) and a descender (Mammut Smart).

    As for rope protection, I was planning on re-fixing often so as to not worry (too much) about edge protection.

    Lastly, will be running all of this on my garage anchor board to get all these new skills (and devices!) tested for real before I get out on rock!

  • @mkroehnert@social.tchncs.de I actually hadn't seen the latest video Yann put out, so that'll be on the list tonight!

    @HowNOT2's video is actually how I got interested in TRS in the first place! Really good and straightforward explanation of the mechanisms and risks involved.

    @devnull
    I forgot, that has a collection of articles regarding Toprope solo.
    Including a non exhaustive list for risk analysis.

    You can find them at the end of the following page, where the first article is called 'To read for self-belaying'
    https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Indoor-and-Outdoor-Climbing

  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    I use microtraction, an old ushba and a homemade neck/elastic loop. Works fine. Ushba is primary, micro traction is secondary. Very smooth. Pay close attention to how your system performs in overhanging terrrain.
  • Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.

    There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.

    By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.

    The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.

    Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:

    1000006397.jpg

    Any potential problems I should be considering?

    This post did not contain any content.

Suggested topics


  • Prime Day deals on climbing gear

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    67 Views
    GrippedG
    Upgrade your rack for less with Prime Day deals The post Prime Day deals on climbing gear appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/buyers-guide/prime-day-deals-on-climbing-gear/
  • Village Buried by Massive Collapsed Glacier

    General News climbing
    1
    1 Votes
    1 Posts
    113 Views
    GrippedG
    Authorities had issued an evacuation order in the Swiss village before the event The post Village Buried by Massive Collapsed Glacier appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/village-buried-by-massive-collapsed-glacier/
  • The Prescription—Fatal Rockfall

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    145 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    Every year we publish several accounts of rockfall. What makes a few of these accidents so scary is the fact that several climbers have experienced this kind of accident just standing at the base of a crag. On July 9, 2022, Anna Laila Leikvold (22) was preparing to climb at the Wizard’s Gate crag, south of Estes Park, when she was struck by a rock falling from above on a route called The Arrival (4 pitches, 5.11). Leikvold, who was wearing a helmet, was at the base of the cliff in a party of three when a football-sized rock dislodged by another climber struck her as she was fleeing from the base of the wall. Bob Siegrist, a developer of this area and first ascensionist of The Arrival, wrote to ANAC, “I think the falling rock came from pitch two, but I did not talk with the climbers who were on the route and caused the rockfall. This speculation is based on talking with other climbers who were at the base and also my inspection of [the] route after the accident. Later, I discovered a spot on pitch two where a stone had broken off, matching the features of the suspect rock that was found at the bottom of the crag below where Anna was struck.” Climbers called 911 and gathered to help Leikvold. Rescuers arrived with a litter, but she passed away before they reached the ambulance. Her evacuation was compounded by the rugged terrain and the lengthy hike to the road (the approach is a steep 30 to 45 minutes). Siegrist returned two weeks later and removed the bolts from the upper three pitches of the climb to prevent such an accident in the future. There are annual instances of rockfall injuries and fatalities suffered by climbers at the base of crags. With the growing popularity of multi-pitch sport routes—often extensions of existing single-pitch climbs—the need grows for caution on the ground and above. According to “Neale D” on Mountainproject.com, “There were over 20 of us climbing at or near Wizard’s Gate [that day], maybe the most some have experienced at this crag. Most importantly, though, probably in an effort to find something open to climb, several parties ventured up multi-pitch routes while others stuck to single-pitching below.” With a shady aspect and an elevation of 10,000 feet, Wizard’s Gate is a popular high-country escape from Colorado’s summer heat. Kim Schwartz, who was at the Wizard’s Gate on the day of the accident, says, “It’s easy to treat an area like this as a sport crag, but it is an alpine environment with all the attendant hazards.” For those climbing or rappelling above others, avoid loose rock, look for white chalk Xs marking unstable rocks, and be aware of how the rope might catch on sketchy blocks. Consider not climbing when others are below. For those below, wear a helmet while leading, belaying, or spectating. However, remember that in this case, a helmet did not save the individual’s life. Adapting an alpinist’s sense of mountain awareness can help prevent such accidents. Watch and listen for falling rock, and choose protected areas while belaying or waiting for your turn to climb. This is especially true if there are climbers above, after heavy rain or snow, and during windstorms. A further lesson extends to route developers or first ascensionists. Pay heed to the numbers and demographics of climbers venturing into alpine and remote areas, many of whom have little experience in the risks inherent in such terrain. Consider the potential for both human-generated or natural rockfall before establishing new routes. This is especially true for multi-pitch routes extending above established climbs. The base of a crag can be a hazardous place. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, gives some tips to avoid causing rockfall while climbing and avoid being hit while at the base of the crag. For climbing at Wizard’s Gate and similar areas, Siegrist has a few safety tips: (Sources: Bob Siegrist, Kim Schwartz, Kelly Cordes, and Mountainproject.com.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/the-prescription
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    125 Views
    pietro87P
    Sunny day at the crag, after a long sequence of shifts #rockclimbing #climbing #climbinglife #bouldering #sportclimbing #freeclimbing
  • Simon Lorenzi Climbs His Fourth V17

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    111 Views
    GrippedG
    He just made the fourth ascent of Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker V17 The post Simon Lorenzi Climbs His Fourth V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/simon-lorenzi-climbs-his-fourth-v17/
  • 5 Knots You NEED to Know for Climbing and Mountaineering

    Videos climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    122 Views
    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyBdmPz4Ma0
  • Should You Retire Dropped Climbing Gear?

    Videos ifsc climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    87 Views
    Hard Is EasyH
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EU90n-d4Txs
  • Mat Wright repeats Rhapsody (E11 7a)

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    124 Views
    climber-magazineC
    https://www.climber.co.uk/news/mat-wright-repeats-rhapsody-e11-7a/