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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • First Ascent of Yma O Hyd E10 7a (8c+) by James McHaffie

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    UK ClimbingU
    James McHaffie has made the first ascent of an E10/8c+ involving a direct start to Mission Impossible E9 at Gallt Yr Ogof in Gwynedd, North Wales, which he has named Yma O Hyd. The new start follows a thin seam line up to a 'Rose' cross-through move to eventually join Mission Impossible at its cruxes. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774872
  • Free In a Day: Hazelnutt Takes Peace to the Top of Medlicott Dome

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    GrippedG
    “I think it was the hardest day of climbing of my life,” Anna Hazelnutt said The post Free In a Day: Hazelnutt Takes Peace to the Top of Medlicott Dome appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/free-in-a-day-hazelnutt-takes-peace-to-the-top-of-medlicott-dome/
  • Alex Honnold Climbs 5.14+ in the U.S.A.

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    GrippedG
    About the 5.14d he said, "I could even imagine hard 8c [5.14c] the way I did it..." The post Alex Honnold Climbs 5.14+ in the U.S.A. appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-climbs-5-14-in-the-u-s-a/
  • Should Red Chili’s New Clue Be Your Next Gym Slipper?

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    climbingC
    It depends on your foot shape. https://www.climbing.com/gear/review-red-chili-clue-climbing-shoe-2024/
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    climber-magazineC
    James McHaffie has just completed his summer mission in the Ogwen Valley making the first ascent of what he believes is now north Wales’ hardest trad route - Yma O Hyd (E10 7a). https://www.climber.co.uk/news/mchaffie-makes-first-ascent-of-yma-o-hyd-e10-7a-north-wales-hardest-trad-route/
  • Sam Weir climbs Hazel Grace sit, 8C/8C+

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    UK ClimbingU
    Sam Weir has made the fourth ascent of Giuliano Cameroni's Gotthard Pass boulder, Hazel Grace Sit-Start (8C/8C+). https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774835
  • Ii Ameriketan, 9a+, for Ainhize Belar

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    UK ClimbingU
    Ainhize Belar has become the first Spanish woman to climb 9a+, with her ascent of Ii Ameriketan (9a+), at Baltzola, Spain. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774823
  • Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Biographie 5.15a

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    GrippedG
    A new video of the American on the famous limestone route just dropped, watch it below The post Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Biographie 5.15a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jonathan-siegrist-climbing-biographie-5-15a/
  • Chris Sharma Wins Silver at North American Cup Series

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    GrippedG
    He surprised many with his attendance at the NACS lead climbing comp in New Jersey The post Chris Sharma Wins Silver at North American Cup Series appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/chris-sharma-wins-silver-at-north-american-cup-series/
  • Noah Wheeler Sends a Drew Ruana V16

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    GrippedG
    He sent the problem in the nick of time, three days before the area was to be closed for two years The post Noah Wheeler Sends a Drew Ruana V16 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/noah-wheeler-sends-a-drew-ruana-v16/
  • Dani Arnold Gets Prestigious Climbing Award

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    GrippedG
    He's one of the most accomplished alpine soloists ever. This is the 12th year the award has been given out The post Dani Arnold Gets Prestigious Climbing Award appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/dani-arnold-gets-prestigious-climbing-award/
  • Finally: A Featherweight Backcountry Bouldering Pad

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    climbingC
    Black Diamond’s new Erratic is ideal for smaller climbers engaged in large approaches… or for anyone else who likes hiking in comfort. https://www.climbing.com/gear/black-diamond-erratic-crash-pad-review/
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    ClimbingZineC
    There are climbing partners, and there are the climbing partners. The partner you want to climb to the ends of the Earth and back with. The one you’d follow all the way to the moon. The one who eats, drinks, and breathes climbing. The climber who is not only skilled but also a student of… https://climbingzine.com/replacing-the-seamstress-corner-with-dave-marcinowski-by-luke-mehall/
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    climber-magazineC
    Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have made the second and third repeats of the 220m long Seventh Direction (F8c) in Rätikon, Switzerland. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/babsi-zangerl-and-jacopo-larcher-repeat-220m-long-seventh-direction-f8c/
  • Fri Night Vid Ground Up on El Nio, El Capitan

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    UK ClimbingU
    In an era where many climbers are using fixed ropes and sport-climbing tactics to free El Cap, climbers like Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn are choosing to keep adventure alive. Going ground up, Amity and Brent pull off a free ascent of the Pineapple Express variation of El Nio (5.13b/c) over eight days, battling variable... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774735
  • Two 8c multi-pitch repeats for Jacopo Larcher and Babsi Zangerl

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    UK ClimbingU
    Over the past couple of weeks, Jacopo Larcher and Babsi Zangerl have made multiple multi-pitch ascents at 8c in the Rtikon mountain range, in the Central Eastern Alps. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774733
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    UK ClimbingU
    The British Mountaineering Council(BMC) is appealing for feedback on proposed membership price increases ahead of the BMC Board meeting on 18 September. The proposal was announced at theMembers' Open... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774729
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    Access FundA
    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/climber-stewards-roll-into-sending-season-at-iconic-locations
  • “Psychological” New 5.12 on Remote Greenland Big Wall

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    climbingC
    To keep things sporting, the team kayaked 280 miles, fended off polar bears, dangerously large waves, and their own inexperience in such lightweight boats. https://www.climbing.com/news/big-wall-first-ascent-greenland/
  • Babsi Zangerl on Send of 220-Metre 5.14b

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    GrippedG
    Along with her partner Jacopo Larcher, they made the first repeats of a stout new route The post Babsi Zangerl on Send of 220-Metre 5.14b appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/babsi-zangerl-on-send-of-220-metre-5-14b/