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Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher repeat 220m long Seventh Direction (F8c)

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    GrippedG
    The men's Boulder final in Prague showcased a series of four flashy problems The post Coordination Boulders Galore at Men’s World Cup Final appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/coordination-boulders-galore-at-mens-world-cup-final/
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJMJEfkwZYI
  • The Line— Skiing the Tetons Enduro Traverse

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    American Alpine ClubA
    In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure. Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here. You can read an extended story—replete with Adam’s history of Teton link-ups—at the AAJ website. In 1963, John Evans, Richard Long, and Allen Steck completed the Grand Traverse, a summertime traverse of ten Teton Range summits, from Nez Perce to Teewinot (the opposite direction of how this now-classic traverse is usually done today). In the 1965 AAJ, Steck wrote, “Any route or time of day is acceptable, however, only be sure to finish within 24 hours.” For the Enduro ski traverse of the Tetons that I envisioned, sub-24 hours was our sole metric, as Steck had laid it out for us. For some years, I’ve been exploring Teton link-ups on skis with various partners, culminating with a day of skiing the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountain by some of their most technical routes. Sam Hennessey, Brendan O’Neill, and I pulled off this fine adventure in March 2023. To me it seemed logical to bring all of our experiences together in a much longer traverse—to see how far we could go in under 24 hours. In the Alaska Range, I have enjoyed moving under the midnight sun for 24, 30, hell, even 64 hours—why not see how this would work back home? It gets darker in Wyoming in the spring than in Alaska, but we have headlamps. The idea of the Enduro Traverse was to enchain the Teton skyline from Buck Mountain in the south to Teewinot, crossing over Mt. Wister, South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen along the way. At 6 p.m. on April 22, with the day’s heat still in the air, Michael Gardner, Brendan O’Neill, and I started skinning up Death Canyon in wet, sloppy snow. Under an endless sunset, we climbed the east ridge of Buck Mountain (11,938’) and clicked in on top for our first descent at 9:15 p.m. (A full moon allowed us to complete all the climbs sans headlamps, but we did use the lamps for our descents.) We skied down Buck’s hyper-classic east face and used a piece of terrain called the Buckshot to drop into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon. The next climb was the South Headwall of Mt. Wister (11,490’), which flows into the upper east ridge. We reached Wister’s summit at 10:53 p.m. This was the lowest peak in our traverse, yet it packed a punch. The northeast face offered up some proper steep skiing—it felt engaging via headlamp—and deposited the three of us in the North Fork of Avalanche Canyon. Our next ascent took us up the South Teton’s Amora Vida Couloir (much more fun to descend than ascend), and here we encountered our least efficient travel of the day, with heinous breakable crust and soggy snow engulfing our entire legs. From the top of the South Teton (12,514’), the descent by the Northwest Chute was fast and uneventful. Now in Garnet Canyon’s South Fork, we began our climb up the Middle Teton’s Southwest Couloir, where efficient cramponing put us on the summit rather quickly. The descent down the east face into the Middle Teton Glacier route was harrowing on the refrozen undulating snow left by skiers who had descended in the warm days before us. But we were not there for the ski quality, rather the continuous movement. From the North Fork of Garnet Canyon, we made quick work of the Ford-Stettner route, topping out the Grand Teton (13,770’) at 6 a.m., 12 hours into our journey. The sun was beginning to rise above the horizon, and it felt great to embrace its warmth again. With a long block of daylight ahead, the three of us were confident as we descended the Ford-Stettner, with some thoughtful downclimbing in the Chevy Couloir, which is normally rappelled. (To save weight, we did not carry a rope and chose lines that would go without one.) We made our way into the Dike Snowfield an... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/the-enduro-traverse
  • Kai Lightner’s 5.15a Gets a Second Ascent

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    GrippedG
    Tyler Thompson has completed his second 5.15a with another first repeat The post Kai Lightner’s 5.15a Gets a Second Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/kai-lightners-5-15a-gets-a-second-ascent/
  • Mountain Now Has the Same Rights as a Person

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    GrippedG
    New Zealand has given Taranaki Maunga the legal personality name of Te Kāhui Tupua, which the law views as “a living and indivisible whole” The post Mountain Now Has the Same Rights as a Person appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/mountain-now-has-the-same-rights-as-a-person/
  • 1 Votes
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    ischrisI
    It's so satisfying sending a route at the end of a session when I'm ready to go home but decide to give the project one last go. Today I was working a long traversing problem (v5ish) that has a fun mix of heel hooks, throws and fancy footwork while locked off on marginal slopers. Last time I was in the gym (before holiday travel) I finally linked all the sections and today I was consistently getting past the crux but just didn't have the energy for the easy-ish but dynamic move that followed. Was ready to pack it in but decided one more go to to dial in the first 2/3rds of the route wouldn't hurt... And everything clicked. Just floated through all the hard moves and hit the final dynamic move with that satisfying stick that tells you your hand is **not** coming off and then easily reached the top. Maybe resigning myself to waiting a few more days to send freed up enough mental energy to give me that little boost I needed.#bouldering #climbing #climber
  • 0 Votes
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    ClimbingZineC
    I was told it must’ve been awful for a person like me to spend the large majority of days locked down in a cell. Every “awful” thing is an opportunity for the spirit to rise above.   Words and art by Isaac Wright, published in Volume 22, now available   The truth is that nature… https://climbingzine.com/drifter-shoots-a-photo-essay-by-isaac-wright/
  • Giant Drones to Carry Trash off Mount Everest

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/giant-drones-to-carry-trash-off-mount-everest/