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First Ascent of Yma O Hyd E10 7a (8c+) by James McHaffie

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  • Peace by Anna Hazlett (a poem)

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    ClimbingZineC
    Note: this poem is published in Volume 25. Photo of Anna climbing “Peace” in Tuolumne Meadows, California by Mary Eden.  Climbing draws us to these moments. Where flowing water harmonizes with every exhale; Where bare toes find solace in mud And bare skin befriends sunlight’s golden rays. Where our wild hearts stir with blooming friendships… https://climbingzine.com/peace-by-anna-hazlett-a-poem/
  • Connor Herson climbs Magic Line, 8c+ Trad

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    UK ClimbingU
    Connor Herson has made just the fifth ascent of Ron Kauk's iconic Vernal Falls crack climb, Magic Line, 8c+. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775832
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    climbingC
    Ethan Pringle has a close call on this serious and nails-hard pitch. https://www.climbing.com/videos/big-fall-yosemite-climb/
  • Do Not Go Outside To Cry by Kathy Karlo

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    ClimbingZineC
    I see it being used all around me to describe women, often by other women: badass. I have always considered it to have a good connotation, as it implies confidence with a splash of style. Diverse, strong-willed women deserve an empowering word that delivers a heavy compliment—one that says, “She’s got things under control.” The… https://climbingzine.com/do-not-go-outside-to-cry-by-kathy-karlo-2-2/
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    rayko@mastodon.raykoworld.comR
    Looks like there was some drama after the #climbing events in the #olympics that I wasn't aware of. I do agree route setters may have been a bit sketchy, and I did felt bad for Mori being so short, but I guess it was about style, and in the next Olympics, boulder and lead will be sepparated which is great, boulders aren't solved the same way as lead.In conclusion:"You send, or you bend. Over" xDThis won't stop me from complaining though, I'm short too lolhttps://youtu.be/RN5DhAruF3k?si=zaGayg3ekMOGXKwl
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Its another Yosemite episode! And with some of the most in-the-know climbers, pro Amity Warme and Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey, who weigh in on what’s been happening in Yosemite, both climbing wise, and in terms of community discussions about the future of climbing ethics and style there. In this episode, we get to know crusher Amity Warme, and her perspectives on going ground-up on El Cap, how she’s recently been toeing the line between pushing her limits versus being in over her head, and how she views her role in the climbing community. We also chat about her ascent of Book of Hate (a 13d heinous stem corner ) and Pineapple Express (which is the fully free version of El Nino) last fall. We also have Yosemite Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey back on the pod, and chat about what’s been going on in Yosemite recently regarding rising temperatures, recent accidents due to using technology, the origins of the new Yosemite Climber’s Credo, and how a local climbing community came together to agree on shared values and guidelines. Amity also weighs in on the Yosemite Credo, and why she believes in the Credo and wants to help lead the way on the best practices for climbing in this iconic location. Dive in to hear about some crucial conversations happening in one of the hubs of the climbing community. Read the Yosemite Climber’s Credo Watch Amity climb Book of Hate Learn More about Amity Warme https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/8/5/protect-amity-warme-and-a-yosar-climbing-ranger-weigh-in-on-the-yosemite-credo
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    ClimbingZineC
    We just posted a sale to score all of our current back issues in print + three dope stickers for $64.99 Score here: https://shop.climbingzine.com/collections/frontpage https://climbingzine.com/mega-sale-all-back-issues-in-print-bundle-1000-pages-of-reading-for-65/
  • The Line — June 2024

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    American Alpine ClubA
    With Father’s Day just past, we’re sharing a few stories of multi-generational climbing families that are featured in the upcoming 2024 AAJ (plus one from the archives). Joanne and Jorge Urioste are legends of Red Rock Canyon, Nevada, having established many classic routes (Crimson Chrysalis, Epinephrine, Dream of Wild Turkeys, Levitation 29, and on and on). Their son Danny is also a climber, and in recent years he too has been putting up big new routes in the sandstone canyons west of Las Vegas, often in the company of prolific new-router and AAJ contributor Sam Boyce. In December 2023, the two teamed up with Kyle Willis for a new route on the Aeolian Wall: Salami Wand Kenobi (14 pitches, V 5.11- R C2). Coincidentally, the new route incorporated three pitches of Woman of Mountain Dreams That route, Urioste explains in his AAJ 2024 report, “was first climbed in 1997 by my parents, along with Dave Krulesky and Mike Morea, and then freed by my mother and Aitor Uson in 1998.” Danny Urioste and Sam Boyce climbed another route on Aeolian Wall, a long direct start to the classic Resolution Arête, in November 2022. You can read about that climb, the Evolution Arête, at Mountain Project. Watch the AAC Legacy Series interview with Joanne and Jorge Urioste! Dylan Miller has been a frequent AAJ contributor in recent years, with many new routes and winter ascents in the mountains around Juneau, Alaska. He has three reports in the upcoming AAJ, including the story of the first known ascent of Mt. Swineford a few years back, which Dylan completed with his dad, Mike, along with Makaila Olson and Ben Still. Dylan says he owes his love of the mountains to his father: “He has definitely been a big inspiration in my life. He took me on my first adventures, and he has done so many first ascents in the area.” In AAJ 2019, Dylan described a classic Alaska adventure with his dad: the first ascent of Endicott Tower, about 50 miles northwest of the capital city. “From Juneau we flew to Gustavus, jumped on a Glacier Bay tourist catamaran, cruised up the east arm of Glacier Bay, and got dropped off in a sandy cove at the base of Mt. Wright, near Adams Inlet,” Miller wrote. “We inflated our rafts and waited for the incoming tide to suck us into the 14-mile Adams Inlet. We waded and crisscrossed the Goddess River delta, sometimes crossing swift, waist-deep rivers, and made camp for the night. We then hiked a full day…to Endicott Lake, the headwaters for the Endicott River. Here we stashed our water gear and tromped 2,000’ up through the Tongass rainforest to a pristine hanging alpine valley, where we made our base camp.” A few days later, from a higher camp, the two climbed snow, mixed terrain, and rotten rock to complete the first ascent of the 5,805-foot peak. “From the top we looked southeast to Juneau and pointed out our home, which put into perspective how far out there we really were,” Dylan wrote. After a rest at base camp, during which a friend flew in to pick up their mountain gear, they packrafted down the Endicott River, bushwhacked past a deep gorge (climbing another peak along the way), and returned to the river to float out to the sea. “In 1973, an expedition led by Carlo Nembrini climbed Illampu (6,368m) in Bolivia and then moved to Illimani,” begins a report in AAJ 2024. “After climbing that peak, they joined a search for the bodies of Pierre Dedieu (France) and Ernesto “Coco” Sanchez (Bolivia), who had been killed on the mountain. Sanchez had been considered the best alpinist in Bolivia at the time…. The Italians located the body of Sanchez, but tragically, during the evacuation, Nembrini fell to his death.” In 2022, Rosa Morotti, a niece of Nembrini’s, wrote to the guide Daniele Assolari, an Italian who lives and works in Bolivia, “about her dream of opening a new route on Illampu, 50 years after the death of her uncle.” Assolari put together a trip with Morotti and Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez (the first female IFMGA aspirant guide from Bolivia), and in late June of 2023, the trio climbed a new line up the south side... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/20/the-line-june-2024