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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • Interview Smiling Buttress, 8B, receives long-awaited second ascent

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    UK ClimbingU
    'At this stage I would do each move in isolation about once every ten or so attempts in good conditions' -Alex Moore on his ascent of Smiling Buttress, twelve years after Tyler Landman made the first ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777699
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    UK ClimbingU
    22-year-old American climber Noah Wheeler has made the third ascent of Daniel Woods'... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777696
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    climber-magazineC
    Alex Moore has secured a coveted second ascent of Smiling Buttress (Font 8B) in the Peak District over a decade after the first ascent. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/alex-moore-makes-coveted-second-ascent-of-smiling-buttress-font-8b/
  • Celebrating AAC Member Bill Atkinson's 100th Birthday

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Climbing is a powerful force that connects us. Even when climbing takes a backseat in our lives, we are still connected to the people we have partnered with, the places we have climbed, and the impact we have had. Today, we celebrate the 100th birthday of one of our members, Bill Atkinson. Bill started climbing in the Shawangunks in the late 50's and joined the American Alpine Club in 1978. He was the New England Section Chair and was awarded the Angelo Heilprin Citation Award in 2006 for exemplary service to the Club. He is one of our oldest members and has been a member of the American Alpine Club for 47 years. Happiest centennial to you, Bill! Bill, your presence in our climbing world has been productive and prolific—and your life has been the same! Your postings have always been inspiring. Thanks for doing all of those. Some segments should be required before being granted membership in the AAC! We never climbed together – except at the Annual AAC New England Section and some Annual Dinners. That is to say, climbing up to the bar. I'm fifteen years younger, so you were out there ahead of me. But I have you beat on one score! I climbed Mt. Sir Donald via the same route you took, but back in 1962. I was also in the Bugaboos that summer. You'll be getting a lot of these postings, so I'll keep this short. Thanks again for all you've done for our world. Happy Century! Hang around for another 15 so you can help me celebrate mine. –Jed Williamson Happy Birthday, Bill, You are one very special person, a thoughtful, helpful climber with such an important history of climbing in New England. I respect you and your contributions to the AAC and climbing. Hats off to you, young man. I salute you for your many contributions. Thank you, and special wishes every day. Happy Birthday, Bruce Franks Rick Merrit celebrates Bill's Birthday by remembering the times they connected through climbing… Bill was a great section leader as I became more involved in the AAC. He worked hard to recruit and recognize new members through our section's formal dinners. I remember climbing with him on White Horse Ledge in North Conway when he was in his 80s. I also remember hiking with Bill and his friend Dee Molinar when the ABD was at Smith Rock. Warm regards to Bill, Rick Merritt I mainly know Bill through the AAC, specifically the New England chapter, which Bill energetically chaired for many years. We all looked forward to the wonderful black tie annual dinners held in the old Tufts mansion in Weston, MA, that he so carefully organized. I always enjoyed listening to Bill's extraordinary life experiences, like when he served as a radar navigator in a B52 in the Pacific during WWII, or marveling at his many fascinating inventions and creations, like the beautiful chess boards he crafted and, of course, his amazing climbing career. Bill remained extremely active as a climber long after most of his peers retired, and I remember he climbed the Black Dike when he was 80, I think! That may have been the oldest ascent ever! I've always appreciated Bill's kind, soft-spoken character and the interest he always showed in others. Bill is a true Renaissance man, and I feel fortunate to know him. Happy 100th birthday, Bill! What a milestone! –Mark Richey https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/1/13/celebrating-aac-member-bill-atkinsons-100th-birthday
  • New M5 5.9 Alpine Mixed Route in Caribbean

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    GrippedG
    It follows a long ridge to the top of one of the highest peaks in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta The post New M5 5.9 Alpine Mixed Route in Caribbean appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-m5-5-9-alpine-mixed-route-in-caribbean/
  • Old School Zine Bundle Just Posted (Volumes 12 – 17)

    climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    600 pages of The Climbing Zine, including two rare zines (Volume 12 and 13) Score one while you can! Old School Bundle Sale Volumes 12 – 17 + Sticker https://climbingzine.com/old-school-zine-bundle-just-posted-volumes-12-17/
  • Silent Partners by Luke Mehall

    climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    I know he knows. Adam Lawton is proud. In every group of adventurers, there is a leader, and every great leader must be a visionary. Adam dreamed the dreams for the entire crew. He found excitement in little breakthroughs, like the time I got a job dishwashing at Crossroads Cafe in Joshua Tree—he couldn’t have… https://climbingzine.com/silent-partners-luke-mehall/
  • Gone Viral: Boulder Problem Speed Record

    climbing
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    GrippedG
    Alex Waterhouse shared a clip of himself climbing Plumber's Crack and it's awesome The post Gone Viral: Boulder Problem Speed Record appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/gone-viral-boulder-problem-speed-record/
  • Pro Tips for Avoiding Climbing Communication Breakdowns

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    climbingC
    Do’s and don’ts to deploy with your partners https://www.climbing.com/skills/pro-tips-for-avoiding-climbing-communication-breakdowns/
  • New 800-Metre M5 Alpine Route in Swiss Alps

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    GrippedG
    The aesthetic line heads up a steep granite face, the FA team said it should "not to be underestimated" The post New 800-Metre M5 Alpine Route in Swiss Alps appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-800-metre-m5-alpine-route-in-swiss-alps/
  • Kai Whaley Tops A Little Life, a V14 Buttermilks Highball

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    GrippedG
    His second ascent of the Keenan Takahashi problem is his toughest highball yet The post Kai Whaley Tops A Little Life, a V14 Buttermilks Highball appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/kai-whaley-tops-a-little-life-a-v14-buttermilks-highball/
  • New 1,000-metre Alpine Big Wall on Petit Dru

    climbing
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    GrippedG
    The new aid/free route took seven days to climb, it rises where the Bonatti Pillar once stood The post New 1,000-metre Alpine Big Wall on Petit Dru appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-1000-metre-alpine-big-wall-on-petit-dru/
  • Famous Red River Gorge Crag Now CLOSED

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    GrippedG
    The local access group has shared the news that the Zoo is closed indefinitely The post Famous Red River Gorge Crag Now CLOSED appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/famous-red-river-gorge-crag-now-closed/
  • V16 Climber Sends First 5.14+ Trad Route

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    GrippedG
    Pietro Vidi has repeated Tribe, one of Europe's hardest all-gear pitches The post V16 Climber Sends First 5.14+ Trad Route appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/v16-climber-sends-first-5-14-trad-route/
  • Weekend Whipper: Brutal Fall Off Tall V10

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    climbingC
    That's gotta hurt. https://www.climbing.com/videos/weekend-whipper-brutal-fall-v10/
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    UK ClimbingU
    In our first Friday Night Video of 2025, we follow Nathaniel Coleman as he takes on the long-standing project that is the low start to Daniel Woods' Defying Gravity, V15/8C. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777559
  • Adam Ondra Tops a V14/15 in Austria

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    GrippedG
    Childhood Dreams was his final hard boulder problem of 2024 The post Adam Ondra Tops a V14/15 in Austria appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-tops-a-v14-15-in-austria/
  • 4.20.99 to Infinity by Luke Mehall

    climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    It’s rare to be told by an editor that you can write whatever you want, but that’s how this essay got started.  Since the seed was planted, the publication with said editor didn’t come to fruition, but I wrote out this piece, and I want to share it.  by Luke Mehall, publisher of The Climbing… https://climbingzine.com/4-20-99-to-infinity-by-luke-mehall/
  • Gogarth Bolting Drama on BBC Radio 4

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    UK ClimbingU
    A drama exploring traditional climbing ethics on the sea cliffs of Gogarth, North Wales aired on BBC Radio 4 yesterday. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=777546
  • Protect your fixed rope from abrasion with a sling

    climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/protect-your-fixed-rope-from-edge-abrasion