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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • Coach Reviews: Why Steve Bechtel’s Training Team Blew Us Away

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    climbingC
    “I basically had a personal trainer!” our reviewer raved. “I don’t know what else I could’ve even asked for.” https://www.climbing.com/skills/training/review-climbing-strong-training-plan/
  • All Aspects

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    American Alpine ClubA
    The AAC DC Chapter hosts a New Ice Climber Weekend in the Adirondacks with Escala Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing By: Sierra McGivney The sun peeked over the Pitchoff Quarry crag, hitting the ice and creating an enchanting aura. The cool February air was saturated with people laughing and ice tools scraping against the ice. If you listened closely, you'd notice that the conversations were a beautiful mix of English and Spanish.  The New Ice Climber Weekend (NICW), hosted by the AAC DC Chapter, has become an annual event. Piotr Andrzejczak, the AAC DC chapter chair and organizer of the New Ice Climber Weekend, believes mentorship is paramount in climbing. The weekend aims to provide participants with an opportunity to try ice climbing, find ice climbing partners, and have a starting point for more significant objectives. Above all, it aims to minimize the barrier to entry for ice climbing.  Last year, Andrzejczak approached Melissa Rojas, the co-founder of Escala and volunteer with the DC Chapter, about partnering to do a New Ice Climber Weekend with Escala. Escala is part of the American Alpine Club's Affiliate Support Network, which provides emerging affinity groups with resources in order to minimize barriers in their operations and serving their community. Escala “creates accessibility, expands representation, and increases visibility in climbing for Hispanic and Latine individuals by building community, sharing culture, and mentoring one another.” Climbing can be a challenging sport to get into. It can require shoes, a harness, a gym membership, and climbing partners. Ice climbing requires all that plus more: ice tools, crampons, and winter clothing.  "There's a lot more complexity to ice climbing," said Rojas. Ice climbing can be limited not only in quantity but also in quality. Due to climate change, the ice in the Adirondacks loses its quality faster than previous decades and the climbs are only of good quality for a limited amount of time. DC climbers are at least seven hours from the Adirondacks, plus traffic and stops, so ice climbing for them has unforeseen logistical challenges. During the NICW, participants can focus more on the basics of learning to ice climb and less on logistics. Rojas and Andrzejczak hosted a pre-meetup/virtual session so that participants could get to know each other and ask questions ahead of time. "We wanted to give folks an opportunity to ice climb in a supportive environment where they felt like they were in a community and were being supported throughout the whole process, from the planning stage to the actual trip," said Rojas. Another focus of the weekend was creating a film. Colt Bradley attended the New Ice Climber Weekend in 2023 as a videographer and as a participant. Bradley volunteers with the AAC Baltimore Chapter and is also Andrzejczak's climbing partner. Last year, he created four Instagram videos that captured the excitement of ice climbing for the first time. When asked to film the Escala x NICW this year, he wanted to do something longer and more story-focused. Bradley and Rojas talked beforehand about focusing the film on the Escala community and highlighting the bond made possible through its existence.  Rojas has worked hard to build up this blended community of Spanish-speaking climbers. Spanish has many flavors, as it is spoken in many different countries with different cultures—all unique in their own way. The film focused on reflecting and representing the vibrant community of Escala.  Soon, they all found themselves at Pitchoff Quarry in the Adirondacks. While the participants learned how to swing their ice tools and kick their crampons into the ice, Bradley sought out community moments. He wanted to put viewers in the moment as participants climbed, so he mi... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/18/all-aspects
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    GrippedG
    Raboutou won gold at the Olympic Qualifier Series in Budapest, earning her Olympic ticket The post The USA Olympic Team Is Complete – Brooke Raboutou Is Going to Paris appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/the-usa-olympic-team-is-complete-brooke-raboutou-is-going-to-paris/
  • CONTEST: Win a Mountaineering Backpack Worth $330!

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    GrippedG
    3 secondary prizes also up for grabs! The post CONTEST: Win a Mountaineering Backpack Worth $330! appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/contest/contest-win-a-mountaineering-backpack-worth-330/
  • Big Wall Climber John Middendorf has Died

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    GrippedG
    From establishing one of the world's hardest routes to designing famous portaledges, Middendorf had a monumental impact on big wall climbing The post Big Wall Climber John Middendorf has Died appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/big-wall-climber-john-middendorf-has-died/
  • Lucas Uchida Sends Sword in the Stone V14 in Squamish

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    GrippedG
    The Ethan Salvo problem features a series of strength-zapping moves before a giant lunge to the lip The post Lucas Uchida Sends Sword in the Stone V14 in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/lucas-uchida-sends-sword-in-the-stone-v14-in-squamish/
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    UK ClimbingU
    https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772166
  • Miho Nonaka’s Road to the Paris Olympics

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    GrippedG
    She has one last chance to make the Summer Games – this weekend's Olympic Qualifier Series in Budapest The post Miho Nonaka’s Road to the Paris Olympics appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/miho-nonakas-road-to-the-paris-olympics/
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    ClimbingZineC
    “Life can be rugged and cold, or smooth and exciting. The climb these two have just performed today symbolizes life and all of its trials and excitements,” read our officiant. “…All love is enclosed in our love: / all thirst ends in our embrace,” I read, starting an excerpt from “Ode and Burgeonings” by Pablo… https://climbingzine.com/long-life-endures-climber-wedding-sara-aranda/
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    ClimbingZineC
    We are psyched to announce that our next “Zine Thing” will be at Wild Iris Mountain Sports in Lander, Wyoming on Thursday, June 27th. The event is FREE. Luke Mehall will tell stories from The Zine, and we’ll also include stories from the audience. Have a story you’d like to tell? Please contact Luke at… https://climbingzine.com/zine-thing-in-lander-on-july-27th-at-wild-iris-mountain-sports/
  • Anak Verhoeven on Sending 5.15b—Twice!

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    climbingC
    The Belgian shared her experience on recent project La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) and what it’s like to be one of only four women to send the grade. https://www.climbing.com/news/female-ascent-5-15-anak-verhoeven/
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    climbingC
    A fourth of July ascent, to see the fireworks from up high, went a bit haywire. https://www.climbing.com/videos/big-fall-on-classic-north-carolina-climb/
  • Fri Night Vid Miho Nonaka: Japan's Iconic Olympic Climber

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    UK ClimbingU
    Miho Nonaka, one of the top female competition climbers in the world, is set on competing in the 2024 Olympic Games. The Japanese-born athlete is no stranger to the high-level world of competitive climbing. In 2021 at the Tokyo Games, Nonaka won Olympic Silver. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772138
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    climbingC
    The 46-year-old was a beloved community leader in his local New Hampshire. https://www.climbing.com/people/new-hampshire-climber-dies-in-climbing-gym-accident/
  • Climbers Hang “Stop the Genocide” Banner from El Capitan

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    climbingC
    A group of activists, “Climbers with Palestine,” unfurled the 25-foot banner from El Cap Tower on Monday. https://www.climbing.com/news/stop-the-genocide-banner-from-el-capitan/
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    climbingC
    A family illness seemed to dash Harrison’s Olympic prospects. But in November 2023, he fought for a second chance. https://www.climbing.com/people/olympic-climber-campbell-harrison/
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    climbingC
    The new HBO film "Here to Climb" offers an analytical and surprisingly candid exploration of Sasha DiGiulian's journey from solitary sport climber to team player. The film debuts Tuesday, June 18 at 9pm ET/PT on HBO. https://www.climbing.com/people/here-to-climb/
  • Olympic Qualifier Series Budapest: Watch Live

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    UK ClimbingU
    The second and final round of the multi-sport Olympic Qualifier Series takes place in Budapest, Hungary this week, starting from tomorrow (20 June). The first round was completed in Shanghai, China last month.The event is the final opportunity for athletes across four sports - Breaking, BMX Freestyle, Skateboarding and Sport Climbing... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772067
  • Fuck the System, 8C+, receives fourth ascent

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    UK ClimbingU
    Pietro Vidi has made the fourth ascent of Shawn Raboutou's 8C+ boulder Fuck the System, in Fionnay, Val de Bagnes, Switzerland. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772060
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    Access FundA
    “We work on multiple fronts to protect climbing areas, with acquisitions a key component of that strategy,” Thorne says. “We buy land because sometimes that’s what we have to do to save America’s climbing.” https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/sometimes-buying-a-threatened-crag-is-the-only-way-to-save-it