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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • 0 Votes
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    ClimbingZineC
    The tables are turned on our host, Luke Mehall, as we share this episode of his appearance on The Struggle Climbing Show, hosted by Ryan Devlin. Our sponsors for Season 7:  Kilter: http://settercloset.com (email holds@kiltergrips.com for more information) Scarpa: www.scarpa.com Osprey: https://www.osprey.com/ Subscribe/ score some books/clothes/stickers: https://shop.climbingzine.com/ https://climbingzine.com/life-is-a-beautiful-struggle-ryan-devlin-and-luke-mehall/
  • Is a small anchor angle better? Maybe not!

    climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. (Warning: anchor nerds only.) Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/is-a-small-anchor-angle-better-maybe-not
  • Noah Wheeler Climbing Shaolin V17

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    GrippedG
    Watch newly released send footage of the American's second V17 ascent The post Noah Wheeler Climbing Shaolin V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/noah-wheeler-climbing-shaolin-v17/
  • Don’t Miss the First-Ever World Cup in Bali This Weekend

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    GrippedG
    Here's how and when you can watch the Lead comp on Saturday and Sunday The post Don’t Miss the First-Ever World Cup in Bali This Weekend appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/dont-miss-the-first-ever-world-cup-in-bali-this-weekend/
  • Fri Night Vid Flashed - Babsi Zangerl's Ascent of Freerider

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    UK ClimbingU
    In this week's Friday Night Video, we get front row seats to Babsi Zangerl's historic flash of Freerider on El Capitan.Setting off on a ground-up attempt this past November, Babsi and her partner Jacopo spent three days battling polished slabs, offwidths, and cryptic sequences. In the end, Babsi topped out as the first person to flash El Cap... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=780947
  • A Mountain Climber Was Rescued Twice in One Week

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    GrippedG
    He nearly died, was rescued and then returned for a lost cellphone only to nearly die again The post A Mountain Climber Was Rescued Twice in One Week appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/a-mountain-climber-was-rescued-twice-in-one-week/
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    ClimbingZineC
    Mudstrosity Yes, it wobbled. Three feet high, one foot wide, a foot deep, probably outweighing me, the block sat at arm’s reach above my head. No way to avoid tangling with it—I was standing in aiders, hanging from a piton. I should bolt around it… by Steve “Crusher” Bartlett (Note: this is an excerpt from… https://climbingzine.com/talk-talk-choss-steve-crusher-bartlett/
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    climber-magazineC
    Top American boulder Katie Lamb has taken the top standard of women’s bouldering to Font 8C+ with the fourth ascent of The Dark Side in Yosemite. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/katie-lamb-makes-history-again-repeating-the-dark-side-font-8c-v16/
  • Katie Lamb becomes the first woman to boulder V16/8C+ (again)

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    UK ClimbingU
    Katie Lamb has made the fourth ascent, and first female ascent, ofThe Dark Side (V16), atCamp 4 Boulders, Yosemite, USA. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=780936
  • Approach As Pilgrimage by Tim Rogers

    climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    Journal entry from 10/15/2014 Zion is the word. Despite all of our differences, to so many people the meaning of Zion remains the same: a place of refuge, a utopian ideal of peace, unity, and freedom. We may not be religious pilgrims, but even as travelers, as climbers, as humans, when anyone asks where we’re… https://climbingzine.com/approach-pilgrimage-tim-rogers/
  • Rob Matheson repeats The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6b) at age 74!

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    climber-magazineC
    Rob Matheson has recently repeated The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6b) on Gogarth at the ripe old age of 74! https://www.climber.co.uk/news/rob-matheson-repeats-the-bells-the-bells-e7-6b-at-age-74/
  • Katie Lamb Makes History (Again) with V16 Ascent

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    GrippedG
    She recently topped Carlo Traversi's The Dark Side V16, Yosemite's hardest boulder problem The post Katie Lamb Makes History (Again) with V16 Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/katie-lamb-makes-history-again-with-v16-ascent/
  • Skier Survives Avalanche on Canmore Peak

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    GrippedG
    A good reminder to start early when going for snowy objectives this time of year The post Skier Survives Avalanche on Canmore Peak appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/skier-survives-avalanche-on-canmore-peak/
  • Babsi Zangerl’s Freerider Flash Just Dropped on Film

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    GrippedG
    A motivational climbing film about Babsi Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher and with an appearance by Alex Honnold The post Babsi Zangerl’s Freerider Flash Just Dropped on Film appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/babsi-zangerls-freerider-flash-just-dropped-on-film/
  • V16 First Ascent for Will Bosi

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    GrippedG
    While in in Magic Wood, the Scottish climber also sent a trio of V14s The post V16 First Ascent for Will Bosi appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/v16-first-ascent-for-will-bosi/
  • Rob Matheson repeats The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6b)

    climbing
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    climber-magazineC
    Rob Matheson has recently repeated The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6b) on Gogarth at the ripe old age of 74! https://www.climber.co.uk/news/rob-matheson-repeats-the-bells-the-bells-e7-6b/
  • With the First Two World Cups Done, Sorato Anraku Looks Unstoppable

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    GrippedG
    The 18-year-old has already claimed two World Cup golds, and the season has just begun The post With the First Two World Cups Done, Sorato Anraku Looks Unstoppable appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/with-the-first-two-world-cups-done-sorato-anraku-looks-unstoppable/
  • Gold’s for McNeice, Seo and Anraku in Wujiang

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    climber-magazineC
    In an rare result Erin McNeice and Chaehyun Seo were both awarded Gold in the first IFSC Lead competition of the season in Wujiang over the weekend; Sorato Anruka took Gold in men’s event. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/gold-s-for-mcneice-seo-and-anraku-in-wujiang/
  • Carabiner Breaks and Climber Hits the Ground

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    GrippedG
    It's that time of year when you should look at replacing any old hardware in your climbing kit The post Carabiner Breaks and Climber Hits the Ground appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/carabiner-breaks-and-climber-hits-the-ground/
  • Soline Kentzel Solos The Nose in Yosemite

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    GrippedG
    The French climber used rope-soloing techniques to climb the famous route over several days The post Soline Kentzel Solos The Nose in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/soline-kentzel-solos-the-nose-in-yosemite/