It's so satisfying sending a route at the end of a session when I'm ready to go home but decide to give the project one last go. Today I was working a long traversing problem (v5ish) that has a fun mix of heel hooks, throws and fancy footwork while locked off on marginal slopers. Last time I was in the gym (before holiday travel) I finally linked all the sections and today I was consistently getting past the crux but just didn't have the energy for the easy-ish but dynamic move that followed. Was ready to pack it in but decided one more go to to dial in the first 2/3rds of the route wouldn't hurt... And everything clicked. Just floated through all the hard moves and hit the final dynamic move with that satisfying stick that tells you your hand is **not** coming off and then easily reached the top. Maybe resigning myself to waiting a few more days to send freed up enough mental energy to give me that little boost I needed.#bouldering #climbing #climber
A new favourite in the area, Bottle Glass has got some nice unpolished moderates away from the crowds at the main wall.
All you have to put up with is a floor covered in glass shards from the practices of local drunks, hence the name.
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Short videos from the past 20 years of just some of the redpoints of the iconic line
The post Eight Climbers Sending Dreamcatcher 5.14d appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/video/eight-climbers-sending-dreamcatcher-5-14d/
After decades of friendship, a British duo just nabbed a first ascent of Yawash Sar, a stunning 6,000-meter peak in Pakistan.
https://www.climbing.com/news/british-alpinists-summit-unclimbed-peak-pakistan/
When working on limit projects, it’s too easy for “failure” to feel “safe.” To maximize his performance, Brian Stevens decided to try adding stakes.
https://www.climbing.com/skills/sport-climbing/quitting-projecting-motivation/
Vadim Druelle has smashed FKT up Nanga Parbat
The post New Fastest Time Up Himalayan Peak appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
https://gripped.com/news/new-fastest-time-up-himalayan-peak/
