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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • Babsi Zangerl on Send of 220-Metre 5.14b

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    GrippedG
    Along with her partner Jacopo Larcher, they made the first repeats of a stout new route The post Babsi Zangerl on Send of 220-Metre 5.14b appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/babsi-zangerl-on-send-of-220-metre-5-14b/
  • New Rock Climb up Bugaboo’s North Howser

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    GrippedG
    Rat Race is the newest route up one of the most famous granite walls in western Canada The post New Rock Climb up Bugaboo’s North Howser appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-rock-climb-up-bugaboos-north-howser/
  • Black Diamond’s New Ice Tool Hits Market

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    GrippedG
    The Hydra is one of the best axes that we've ever used on steep ice, burly mixed and long moderates The post Black Diamond’s New Ice Tool Hits Market appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/black-diamonds-new-ice-tool-hits-market/
  • Weekend Whipper: Climber Skips a Clip and Goes for the Ride!

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    climbingC
    The inspiration you need going into this weekend’s projects. https://www.climbing.com/videos/big-sport-climbing-fall-mexico/
  • Historic Yosemite National Park Hotel Closing

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    GrippedG
    The Wawona Hotel is one of the oldest mountain resort hotels in the U.S.A. The post Historic Yosemite National Park Hotel Closing appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/historic-yosemite-national-park-hotel-closing/
  • Ainhize Belar Is the First Spanish Woman to Climb 5.15a

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    GrippedG
    She made history in sending her long-term project, Iñi Ameriketan 5.15a The post Ainhize Belar Is the First Spanish Woman to Climb 5.15a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/ainhize-belar-is-the-first-spanish-woman-to-climb-5-15a/
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    Access FundA
    Access Fund is pleased to announce $30,000 in climbing conservation grants to eight awardees to advance new projects in human waste solutions, erosion control, climber education, land acquisitions, data collection, and an economic impact study. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/access-fund-announces-eight-fall-2024-climbing-conservation-grantees
  • Interview Rachel Pearce climbs Olwen, E9 6c

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    UK ClimbingU
    Rachel Pearce has made the sixth ascent, and third female ascent, of Olwen, E9 6c, at Painted Wall, Rhoscolyn, Wales. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774705
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    UK ClimbingU
    The shortlist for the 2024 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature has been announced. In the competition's forty-first year, there were 32 entries by authors from Great Britain, Ireland, USA, Australia, Canada, India, Pakistan, B... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774701
  • Lara Neumeier Repeats Seven Pitch 5.13-

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    GrippedG
    This is the second ascent of the 140-metre route since it was opened in 2022 The post Lara Neumeier Repeats Seven Pitch 5.13- appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/lara-neumeier-repeats-seven-pitch-5-13/
  • Shawn Raboutou Repeating a V16 in Japan

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    GrippedG
    Watch as one of the world's best climbers makes the second ascent of a V16 established in 2019 The post Shawn Raboutou Repeating a V16 in Japan appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/shawn-raboutou-repeating-a-v16-in-japan/
  • Boardman Tasker Book Award 2024 Shortlist

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    GrippedG
    The winner of this year's competition will be announced this fall The post Boardman Tasker Book Award 2024 Shortlist appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/boardman-tasker-book-award-2024-shortlist/
  • Advocate Spotlight: Sandy Dunlap

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    Access FundA
    Sandy is a reminder that all of us—whether we’re responding to a policy action alert, picking up trash, building a trail, or making a donation—have a role to play in protecting America’s climbing. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/advocate-spotlight-sandy-dunlap
  • Protecting Our Common Ground

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    climbingC
    Outdoor enthusiasts, conservationists, and cattle ranchers all want the same thing: a healthy planet for future generations https://www.climbing.com/people/protecting-our-common-ground/
  • New Kelowna Bouldering Digital Guidebook

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    GrippedG
    The Okanagan Bouldering Society has partnered with KAYA to bring the Okanagan Boulderfields online The post New Kelowna Bouldering Digital Guidebook appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-kelowna-bouldering-digital-guidebook/
  • The Prescription—September

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    American Alpine ClubA
    The following report describes an accident at Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. This is a longer form report than what will be published in the 2024 Accidents in North American Climbing. If you are a Partner Level Member or above, the Accidents book will arrive in your mailbox any day. The book is filled with examples of good luck and bad—mainly the latter. This tragic accident occurred on the third pitch of a popular route at Seneca Rocks when a climber with three years of experience took an intentional leader fall. The rope was not running over an edge, his gear was in perfect working order, and his belayer made no mistakes. He expected a safe, albeit long fall. Instead, the rope was severed and he tragically fell to his death. Arthur Kearns, local guide and owner of The Gendarme Climbing Shop and the Seneca Rocks Climbing School, submitted the following report: On August 5, a party of two started up Simple J Malarkey (3 pitches, 5.7). The top of the second pitch ends in a corner alcove with overhanging rock above. At the start of the third pitch, the leader, Danny Gerhart (24), placed a 0.75 Camalot just above the belay, before attempting to climb up and left. Gerhart encountered a wasp’s nest and stepped back down to the belay. He then stepped down and to the right on the ramp that ends the second pitch. This was the sequence most used by other climbers. Gerhart was now about five feet away from the belay. He placed a second 0.75 Camalot before moving up and left to a second alcove, about eight feet above and to the right of the belay. Here, Gerhart placed a #3 Camalot in a shallow, slightly flaring pocket. (This piece was found with both extended and non-extended alpine draws attached.) At this point, he removed the second 0.75 Camalot to prevent excessive rope drag.  Gerhart attempted to move up and right from this stance, which is the most used sequence. This crux section requires the leader to move over a roof on a four-foot-high plaque of rock. Though protection is available, the leader cannot see it until they have committed to the crux, and even then, the placement is behind the climber and at waist level. The handholds here could be described as less than inspiring, as water drains onto them from above, adding a polished feel to the rock. Having found no gear, Gerhart stepped back down to the previous stance and discussed options with the belayer. By then, the sun was peeking over the top, making route-finding more difficult. The climbing team discussed options before Gerhart decided to move up and left. Climbing above the last piece and not finding additional protection, Gerhart called down to the belayer, informing them that he was going to take a deliberate fall (acknowledging it was “going to be a big one”). He then let go and fell around 12 feet before loading the rope. The belayer reported having enough time to take in two to four feet of slack before hearing a very loud “gunshot” as the rope exploded. The belayer never felt the falling climber load the belay, and Gerhart fell approximately 130 feet to the ground.  While numerous climbing parties immediately responded to give aid, the fallen climber passed at the scene.  Evidence points to the rope being cut by the rope-end carabiner (a Petzl Spirit) on the extended alpine draw attached to the #3 Camalot. The carabiner remained attached to the fully extended alpine draw and was situated on a slabby portion of rock just below the Camalot. Fuzzy remains from the rope sheath were found inside the carabiner. No rope sheath material was found on any nearby rock edges or the slabby rock face. Photos from the accident scene show about seven feet of rope extending from the tie-in on Gerhart’s harness. Three to four feet of core was exposed where the rope cut. The individual core bundles were all severed at the same length; this indicates a definitive “cut” versus extended shredding over an edge. Kearns wrote the following analysis: How the carabiner cut the rope is difficult to visualize. But here is my attempt to explain it. The rope leaving the belayer moved up through the first piece and past the slightly overhanging rock above. The overhang included a six-to-eight-inch-wide V-slot that likely inhibited the belay strand from moving laterally to the right. At the time of impact, the belay strand of the rope ... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/9/11/the-prescriptionseptember
  • Thompson-Smith and MacDougall crowned 2024 British Lead Champions

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    climber-magazineC
    Molly Thompson-Smith and Jack MacDougall were crowned 2024 British Lead Champions at the Edinburgh British Lead and Para Climbing Championship last weekend. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/thompson-smith-and-macdougall-crowned-2024-british-lead-champions/
  • Three Ondra 5.14d’s in Two Weeks for Stefano Ghisolfi

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    GrippedG
    He made quick work of the routes in Flatanger and Hell, Norway The post Three Ondra 5.14d’s in Two Weeks for Stefano Ghisolfi appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/three-ondra-5-14ds-in-two-weeks-for-stefano-ghisolfi/
  • American Mountaineering Center Update

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Since 1993, the AAC's office, library, and museum have been located in the American Mountaineering Center (AMC) in Golden, CO. Over the past few years, the AAC and Colorado Mountain Club have evaluated the AMC's future, including the option to sell the building that we have owned, managed, and occupied together. We are pleased to share that we sold the AMC building today, September 10, 2024. The AAC will continue to occupy the building while we work to envision a future location that will help us deliver on our mission and continue to serve our members and donors. The AAC library and museum will close on September 20, 2024, to allow for cataloging and inventorying. During this transitionary period, the library will cease new scanning requests, new research requests, and book sales. We remain committed to an inspiring future for the AAC library and mountaineering museum that honors the contributions of past donors and members and modernizes these critical resources for future generations. We are proud to have partnered with the Colorado Mountain Club to steward this historic building in the heart of Golden for the past 30 years, and we firmly believe the new owner will continue to care for this important building in its next phase. Lastly, we are grateful to the board of directors, led by Glenn Porzak, who dreamed of bringing the organization to Golden decades ago, and the members and donors who helped make that dream a reality. Your contributions, vision, and foresight brought us to this moment, which presents exciting future possibilities for the Club. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/9/11/american-mountaineering-center-update
  • British Lead, Speed and Paraclimbing Championships 2024

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    UK ClimbingU
    The British Lead, Speed and Paraclimbing Championships took place at EICA: Ratho, Edinburgh last weekend. A busy schedule meant plenty of action and the Paraclimbing competition in particular attracted record participation, showing the growth of the sport ahead of its Paralympic debut in LA 2028. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=774676