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Climbing News from assorted publications

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  • Lee Sungsu sends Burden of Dreams (Font 9A) – twice

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    climber-magazineC
    Korean climber Lee Sungsu recently made an ascent of Burden of Dreams (Font 9A) at Lappnor in Finland, returning to climb it again after a potential 'dab' two days before. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/lee-sungsu-sends-burden-of-dreams-font-9a-twice/
  • In an World Cup with Nearly Five Ties, One Climber Pulled Ahead

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    GrippedG
    The women's Boulder World Cup in Salt Lake City featured two relatively easy problems and two nails-hard ones The post In an World Cup with Nearly Five Ties, One Climber Pulled Ahead appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/in-an-world-cup-with-nearly-five-ties-one-climber-pulled-ahead/
  • Rappelling into the unknown

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    AlpineSavvyA
    At some point, all climbers will have to rappel down an unknown route. Here are some solid tips to hopefully get you down in one piece, without creating too many (epic) stories to tell later. Premium Article available https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/rappelling-into-the-unknown
  • Sarah Ingram and Marcus Scotney Win the 2025 Cape Wrath Ultra

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    UK ClimbingU
    After 8 days and 400 kilometres the 2025 Cape Wrath Ultra has reached its finale in the far North West of Scotland, with Sarah Ingram and Marcus Scotney finishing in first place. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781654
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    ClimbingZineC
    The beauty is in the simplicity. A hunger fed by nature, a modern way of experiencing nature. We were driven out there for different reasons—some of us introduced to rock climbing at a young age, in a responsible manner. For others, including myself, it was trial by fire. note: this is an excerpt from American… https://climbingzine.com/climbing-mount-analogue-an-excerpt-from-american-climber/
  • Adam Ondra’s Move 5.15b/c Gets Fifth Ascent

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    GrippedG
    Two days ago, Domen Škofic repeated one of the hardest routes in Flatanger The post Adam Ondra’s Move 5.15b/c Gets Fifth Ascent appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondras-move-5-15b-c-gets-fifth-ascent/
  • Fri Night Vid Salimor Khola - An Unexplored Valley in the Himalayas

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    UK ClimbingU
    Lured by shadows on Google Earth, Matt Glenn, Hamish Frost, Paul Ramsden, and Tim Miller set out on an expedition to one of the most isolated regions of Nepal. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781592
  • Lee Sungsu climbs Burden of Dreams, 9A, twice

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    UK ClimbingU
    Lee Sungsu has made the fifth ascent of Burden of Dreams (f9A), two days after invalidating his own ascent due to his t-shirt brushing the pads when pulling up for the first move. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781580
  • Carlo Traversi Climbing The Dark Side V16 in Yosemite

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    GrippedG
    The ultra-technical problem was the Valley's first of the grade The post Carlo Traversi Climbing The Dark Side V16 in Yosemite appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/video/carlo-traversi-climbing-the-dark-side-v16-in-yosemite/
  • Holding the Rock Together

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    ClimbingZineC
    I won’t say that I’m afraid of heights, but to be standing on the edge of anything looking down more than 50 feet or so gives me a funny feeling in the abdomen from just below the sternum all the way down to where the feeling translates into a moderate concern about bladder control. It’s… https://climbingzine.com/holding-the-rock-together/
  • Hand Holds: The Many Cruxes of Parenting and Climbing

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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode we have Allyson Gunsallus on the podcast to talk about an under-discussed part of the climbing community—the joys and struggles of parenting and climbing. Allyson recently produced Hand Holds, an educational film series now free to watch on Youtube, which cover a range of topics, from shifting identities, logistical challenges, and new relationships to risk as a parent and climber. After all, a toddler waddling around at the crag isn’t just a cute climbing mascot—they can also be a seismic shift in a new parent’s relationship to climbing. The series features Becca and Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Chris Kalous and Steph Bergner, Kris Hampton, Jess and Jon Glassberg, Majka Burhardt, and Anna and Eddie Taylor. Hand Holds gets into the real (and messy) beta of negotiating life through climbing and parenting, and this episode gets a sneak peak of Allyson’s philosophies and personal experience behind the project. Episode Resources Watch the Hand Holds Series on YouTube Learn More About the Film Project Learn More about Allyson Gunsallus https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/22/hand-holds-the-many-cruxes-of-parenting-and-climbing
  • Sungsu Lee Sends Burden of Dreams V17, Arguably Twice

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    GrippedG
    After dabbing on one ascent, he went back and sent the problem in perfect style the next session The post Sungsu Lee Sends Burden of Dreams V17, Arguably Twice appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/sungsu-lee-sends-burden-of-dreams-v17-arguably-twice/
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    Access FundA
    On May 21st, 2025, the U.S. House of Representatives passed the budget reconciliation bill—without the public land sell-off provision—after Congressman Ryan Zinke and Speaker Mike Johnson introduced a manager’s amendment to strike the language, following overwhelming public opposition from climbers ... https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/breaking-public-land-sell-offs-removed-from-house-budget-bill
  • The Line— Skiing the Tetons Enduro Traverse

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    American Alpine ClubA
    In the evening of April 22, 2024, Teton guides Adam Fabrikant, Michael Gardner, and Brendan O’Neill started skinning up Death Canyon in Wyoming’s Teton Range, aiming for Buck Mountain, near the south end of the range. A little over 20 hours and seven peaks later, they skied off Teewinot Mountain and back to the valley floor to complete the Enduro Traverse—an unprecedented ski mountaineering adventure. Adam’s story about the Enduro will be in AAJ 2025. We’re offering a condensed version here. You can read an extended story—replete with Adam’s history of Teton link-ups—at the AAJ website. In 1963, John Evans, Richard Long, and Allen Steck completed the Grand Traverse, a summertime traverse of ten Teton Range summits, from Nez Perce to Teewinot (the opposite direction of how this now-classic traverse is usually done today). In the 1965 AAJ, Steck wrote, “Any route or time of day is acceptable, however, only be sure to finish within 24 hours.” For the Enduro ski traverse of the Tetons that I envisioned, sub-24 hours was our sole metric, as Steck had laid it out for us. For some years, I’ve been exploring Teton link-ups on skis with various partners, culminating with a day of skiing the Grand Teton, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot Mountain by some of their most technical routes. Sam Hennessey, Brendan O’Neill, and I pulled off this fine adventure in March 2023. To me it seemed logical to bring all of our experiences together in a much longer traverse—to see how far we could go in under 24 hours. In the Alaska Range, I have enjoyed moving under the midnight sun for 24, 30, hell, even 64 hours—why not see how this would work back home? It gets darker in Wyoming in the spring than in Alaska, but we have headlamps. The idea of the Enduro Traverse was to enchain the Teton skyline from Buck Mountain in the south to Teewinot, crossing over Mt. Wister, South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen along the way. At 6 p.m. on April 22, with the day’s heat still in the air, Michael Gardner, Brendan O’Neill, and I started skinning up Death Canyon in wet, sloppy snow. Under an endless sunset, we climbed the east ridge of Buck Mountain (11,938’) and clicked in on top for our first descent at 9:15 p.m. (A full moon allowed us to complete all the climbs sans headlamps, but we did use the lamps for our descents.) We skied down Buck’s hyper-classic east face and used a piece of terrain called the Buckshot to drop into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon. The next climb was the South Headwall of Mt. Wister (11,490’), which flows into the upper east ridge. We reached Wister’s summit at 10:53 p.m. This was the lowest peak in our traverse, yet it packed a punch. The northeast face offered up some proper steep skiing—it felt engaging via headlamp—and deposited the three of us in the North Fork of Avalanche Canyon. Our next ascent took us up the South Teton’s Amora Vida Couloir (much more fun to descend than ascend), and here we encountered our least efficient travel of the day, with heinous breakable crust and soggy snow engulfing our entire legs. From the top of the South Teton (12,514’), the descent by the Northwest Chute was fast and uneventful. Now in Garnet Canyon’s South Fork, we began our climb up the Middle Teton’s Southwest Couloir, where efficient cramponing put us on the summit rather quickly. The descent down the east face into the Middle Teton Glacier route was harrowing on the refrozen undulating snow left by skiers who had descended in the warm days before us. But we were not there for the ski quality, rather the continuous movement. From the North Fork of Garnet Canyon, we made quick work of the Ford-Stettner route, topping out the Grand Teton (13,770’) at 6 a.m., 12 hours into our journey. The sun was beginning to rise above the horizon, and it felt great to embrace its warmth again. With a long block of daylight ahead, the three of us were confident as we descended the Ford-Stettner, with some thoughtful downclimbing in the Chevy Couloir, which is normally rappelled. (To save weight, we did not carry a rope and chose lines that would go without one.) We made our way into the Dike Snowfield an... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/the-enduro-traverse
  • The Metolius Element II Screw Lock Carabiner

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    GrippedG
    An easy-to-use and perfectly sized carabiner for cragging and multi-pitches The post The Metolius Element II Screw Lock Carabiner appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/the-metolius-element-ii-screw-lock-carabiner/
  • Canadian Highliner Dies in Fall Near Squamish

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    GrippedG
    The international slackline community is mourning the death of a 22-year-old who died in an accident over the weekend The post Canadian Highliner Dies in Fall Near Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/canadian-highliner-dies-in-fall-near-squamish/
  • USA Denies Entry to World Cup Climbers

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    GrippedG
    Korean climbers and coaches have been denied entry days before the Salt Lake City World Cup. They had originally been given permission to enter the USA The post USA Denies Entry to World Cup Climbers appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/usa-denies-entry-to-world-cup-climbers/
  • William Moss flashes El Capitan in a day

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    UK ClimbingU
    Six months after Babsi Zangerl made the historic first flash ascent of El Capitan, William Moss has made the second flash ascent of El Capitan, also of Freerider, 5.13a, but this time in just a single day. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781551
  • History Made on Yosemite’s El Capitan

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    GrippedG
    Freerider, Salathe and The Nose all had noteworthy ascents over the past few weeks The post History Made on Yosemite’s El Capitan appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/history-made-on-yosemites-el-capitan/
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    UK ClimbingU
    Pietro Vidi has made the second free ascent of Lurking Fear, 5.13c, El Capitan, twenty-five years after it was first freed by Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden, in 200. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=781533