Skip to content

Alpinist’s New Speed Record and a Controversy

General News
1 1 72 1

Suggested topics


  • Free-Solo Climber Survives 60-Foot Fall

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    67 Views
    GrippedG
    Thankfully there were other people nearby who came to the rescue The post Free-Solo Climber Survives 60-Foot Fall appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/free-solo-climber-survives-60-foot-fall/
  • Too many people pulling?

    Videos climbing hownot2
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    124 Views
    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDonlkEP3Cw
  • 4.20.99 to Infinity by Luke Mehall

    General News climbing climbingzine
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    97 Views
    ClimbingZineC
    It’s rare to be told by an editor that you can write whatever you want, but that’s how this essay got started.  Since the seed was planted, the publication with said editor didn’t come to fruition, but I wrote out this piece, and I want to share it.  by Luke Mehall, publisher of The Climbing… https://climbingzine.com/4-20-99-to-infinity-by-luke-mehall/
  • 1 Votes
    1 Posts
    110 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    It has been a momentous week for climbing policy, and we want to thank all of you who shared your voices with your legislators on these matters. The EXPLORE Act, which the AAC and its partners have been working on in some form or another for nearly 10 years, passed with unanimous consent, and is awaiting a presidential signature as we speak. Secondly, the National Park Service announced late Wednesday afternoon (December 18th) that they were discontinuing the development of their proposed fixed anchor guidance. What does this mean for climbers? The EXPLORE Act: The EXPLORE Act, introduced by Rep Bruce Westerman (R-AR) and Rep Raul Grijalva (D-AZ), is a historic recreation package that has had widespread bipartisan support and support from outdoor recreationists of all stripes—including climbers, mountain bikers, hunters, anglers, and more.  The most important elements of the EXPLORE Act for climbers are two-fold.  First, EXPLORE includes the Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act, introduced by Rep. Joe Neguse (D-CO) and Rep John Curtis (R-UT). The PARC Act is intended to ensure safe and sustainable access to rock climbing in designated Wilderness areas. It requires federal agencies to recognize recreational climbing as an appropriate activity in accordance with the Wilderness Act of 1964, as well as recognizing that the placement, use, and maintenance of fixed anchors is appropriate. The act also ensures that a public comment period is made available prior to any final climbing management guidance being issued. Essentially, the PARC Act officially recognizes that the use of fixed anchors for climbing (and Search and Rescue operations) continues to be appropriate in Wilderness areas, provided it does not diminish the wilderness character of the area. Second, EXPLORE includes the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation Act (SOAR Act), which will increase accessibility to the outdoors by improving recreational permitting for outfitters and guides. How? By: Additional elements of the EXPLORE Act include improving access to parks and public lands for veterans and people with disabilities by building additional accessible trails; the BOLT Act, which will create more long-distance biking trails; and the codification of FICOR and the Outdoor Recreation Legacy Partnership, which funds local parks and green spaces, and provides direct access to funding for tribes for developing green spaces. AAC Executive Director Ben Gabriel synthesized this win, saying: “It has been such a privilege to work with all the outdoor recreation organizations, and legislators from both chambers and parties, to see the EXPLORE Act through. This historic recreation package will broadly serve the public, protect recreation resources, and provide for our gateway communities.” As you might imagine, the AAC is thrilled with what this all means for public lands and accessibility to climbing across the United States! This win would not be possible without the combined efforts of our incredible partners, especially Outdoor Alliance, Access Fund, AMGA, and The Mountaineers. Fixed Anchor Policy: The National Park Service announced on December 18th that they were discontinuing the development of their proposed fixed anchor guidance. The update said that, "Park leaders will continue to manage climbing activities in Wilderness on a park-by-park basis consistent with applicable law and policy, including the Wilderness Act." This announcement comes nearly a year after Park officials sought public comment on proposed regulations which suggested a new interpretation of installations as defined in the Wilderness Act. This new interpretation, which could have prohibited fixed anchors in Wilderness, was met with significant concern from climbers, climbing organizations, and other recreation enthusiasts, as well as search and rescue professionals, throughout the country.   The AAC thanks the NPS for sensing the need to reevaluate the proposed regulations and looks forward to collaborating with them in the future on fixed anchor guidance. The AAC, Access Fund, Mountaineers, and many other organizations, worked tirelessly to educate lawmakers on the potential impacts of prohibiting fixed anchors, which resulted in 14 Senators reaching out to the Secretaries of the Department of I... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/12/19/xqb6m95tn7yzrj9c0gjad322vzx4zx
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    168 Views
    JaromírC
    Anyone up for a climbing session in Chiang Mai? 🧗‍️ Indoors or outdoors#ChiangMai #thailand #climbing
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    99 Views
    climbingC
    Janja Garnbret, Sorato Anraku, and Jakob Schubert are clear crowd favorites. But there are plenty of others who could snag gold. https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/underdogs-sport-climbing-paris-olympics/
  • Remembering John Middendorf

    General News climbing
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    177 Views
    American Alpine ClubA
    We are deeply saddened by the loss of the incredible climber, mountaineer, inventor, writer, and historian of climbing gear John Middendorf. John (nicknamed the "Deuce") was a true friend to the American Alpine Club, and his insatiable curiosity and kindness made an impression on everyone he met.  Although his contributions to climbing are many, some in particular changed the sport forever. John’s ascent of the East Face of Great Trango Tower in 1992 with Xaver Bongard epitomized his elite climbing skill—The Grand Voyage was a performance of a lifetime on one of the biggest and remotest big walls in the world, and was one of the first Grade VII climbs. John also put up new Grade VI routes on Half Dome and El Cap, along with many first ascents in Zion National Park. He was otherwise a prolific contributor to the American Alpine Journal with exploratory climbs all across the world. John, an engineer and inventor, started a hardware company, A5 Adventures, in 1986. His innovations in portaledge design, as well as Birdbeak pitons, aiders, haul bags, and other gear, unequivocally changed the big-wall game. He sold A5 to The North Face in 1997. His 1994 book Big Walls, co-authored with John Long, was the crucial reference for many wall-climbing novices. But besides being a great man in climbing, he also was a dear friend of the AAC. We deeply appreciate the generosity and knowledge he shared with the Club, his support of the AAC Library, and his contributions to the Legacy Series and the 2023 Cutting Edge Grant.  The AAC’s Library Director, Katie Sauter, reflected: “[John’s] insatiable curiosity led him to research so many avenues of climbing, often sending me questions about the most obscure references. He was very knowledgeable and wrote blog posts about a wide variety of topics pertaining to climbing history and the evolution of gear. He was generous with his time, and when he was visiting, he'd identify historic climbing gear for our collections. His enthusiasm was infectious. He was so interested in how gear was made that he even wanted to test the composition of some of our historic pitons to see what kind of metal was used.” The AAC will truly miss John Middendorf, and our thoughts are with his wife, Jeni, his children, and his other family and friends as they grieve and celebrate him. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/25/remembering-john-middendorf
  • Neck vs Lanyard #climbinggear #breaktest

    Videos climbing hownot2
    1
    0 Votes
    1 Posts
    109 Views
    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSrwB7eCc68