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A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. (Warning: anchor nerds only.)
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Is a small anchor angle better? Maybe not — Alpinesavvy

A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. (Warning: anchor nerds only.)

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

In most rappels, getting the rope down is pretty straightforward: give each strand a toss and hope for the best. However, challenging terrain and conditions may require some specialized techniques. Here are a few.
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Rappel tips for tricky terrain — Alpinesavvy

In most rappels, getting the rope down is pretty straightforward: give each strand a toss and hope for the best. However, challenging terrain and conditions may require some specialized techniques. Here are a few.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Tool tethers prevent the gigantic problem of dropping an ice tool on a long alpine route. The commercial ones work fine; however they can be a bit expensive. Here's a way to make your own.
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DIY - Ice tool tethers — Alpinesavvy

Tool tethers prevent the gigantic problem of dropping an ice tool on a long alpine route. The commercial ones work fine; however they can be a bit expensive. Here's a way to make your own.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Want to boost the strength of your rigging? Simply doubling the strands into a basket hitch can dramatically increase the strength, which could be helpful in some situations. See the test results here.

Need a stronger anchor? Try a basket hitch — Alpinesavvy

Want to boost the strength of your rigging? Simply doubling the strands into a basket hitch can dramatically increase the strength, which could be helpful in some situations. See the test results here.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.)
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Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 2) — Alpinesavvy

A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.)

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.)
Premium Article available

Off route! — Alpinesavvy

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it.
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What are the “Screaming Barfies”? — Alpinesavvy

Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

As ice climbing season winds down, it becomes more important to consider environmental conditions as potential hazards. Here are five of them. Guest post from IFMGA Guide Kel Rossiter.

Ice climbing - environmental “red flags” — Alpinesavvy

As ice climbing season winds down, it becomes more important to consider environmental conditions as potential hazards. Here are five of them. Guest post from IFMGA Guide Kel Rossiter.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. See examples of strong and simple rigging here.
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Alpine retreat anchors - Part 2 — Alpinesavvy

Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. See examples of strong and simple rigging here.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig so you can do it under potential stress. Learn the principles here.
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Alpine retreat anchors - Part 1 — Alpinesavvy

Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see examples here.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Hooks are crucial gear for aid climbing, but they are a bit unusual: most require you to add a sling. Here are a few tricks and best practices for slinging your hooks.
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Off route! — Alpinesavvy

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.)

Do This, Not That (Part 1) — Alpinesavvy

A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This articles covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.)

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

The normal way of cutting and melting a rope doesn't work too well with a rope with an aramid core, because it’s fireproof! Here's a simple and unconventional way to get a perfectly sealed cut on an aramid rope.

How to cut an Aramid core rope — Alpinesavvy

The normal way of cutting and melting a rope doesn't work too well with a rope with an aramid core, because it’s fireproof! Here's a simple and unconventional way to get a perfectly sealed cut on an aramid rope.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Have you seen another climber doing something that could be potentially lethal? How did you handle it? It's a tough call, and there are no right answers. Here's one approach.
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How do you offer safety advice when climbing? — Alpinesavvy

Have you seen another climber doing something that could be potentially lethal? How did you handle it? It's a tough call, and there are no right answers. Here's one approach.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem.
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Two ways to avoid edge loading carabiners — Alpinesavvy

Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app.
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How to add a GPX file to your phone — Alpinesavvy

Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look.
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Snapgate or locking carabiners on anchors? — Alpinesavvy

When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope.
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Protect your fixed rope from edge abrasion with a sling — Alpinesavvy

If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff; another option is the self-lower. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here.
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Descend by self-lowering — Alpinesavvy

Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff. One other option is the self-lower. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm.
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Will Gadd: Keeping your hands and feet warm, Part 3 — Alpinesavvy

The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm.

Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)