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Hooks are crucial gear for aid climbing, but they are a bit unusual: most require you to add a sling. Here are a few tricks and best practices for slinging your hooks.
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Hooks are crucial gear for aid climbing, but they are a bit unusual: most require you to add a sling. Here are a few tricks and best practices for slinging your hooks.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.)
A series of quick tips on best practices. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. This articles covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. (Last 3 tips are for Premium Members.)
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
The normal way of cutting and melting a rope doesn't work too well with a rope with an aramid core, because it’s fireproof! Here's a simple and unconventional way to get a perfectly sealed cut on an aramid rope.
The normal way of cutting and melting a rope doesn't work too well with a rope with an aramid core, because it’s fireproof! Here's a simple and unconventional way to get a perfectly sealed cut on an aramid rope.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Have you seen another climber doing something that could be potentially lethal? How did you handle it? It's a tough call, and there are no right answers. Here's one approach.
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Have you seen another climber doing something that could be potentially lethal? How did you handle it? It's a tough call, and there are no right answers. Here's one approach.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem.
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Sometimes when anchor building, carabiners can become loaded across the edge of a rock. This makes the carabiner much weaker, not good! Here are two ways to solve this problem.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app.
Premium Article available
Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look.
Premium Article available
When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope.
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If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff; another option is the self-lower. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here.
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Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff. One other option is the self-lower. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm.
Premium Article available
The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
If a fixed rope is loaded over an edge, it might get damaged. Here's a simple technique to save your rope: the rebelay.
If a fixed rope is loaded over an edge, it might get damaged. Here's a simple technique to save your rope: the rebelay.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
In crevasse rescue, you often build one anchor and transfer the load to it. Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2. Here are three methods to dial in this equalization.
In crevasse rescue, you often build one anchor and transfer the load to it. Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2. Here are three methods to dial in this equalization.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. How would you get past it? Here’s one method.
You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. How would you get past it? Here’s one method.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Here are some winter-tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part two of a series of three articles.
Here are some winter-tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part two of a series of three articles.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd shares some of his top tips for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part one of a series of three articles.
Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd shares some of his top tips for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part one of a series of three articles.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method, but it's quick and simple.
Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method but it's quick and simple.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method, but it's quick and simple.
The “Swiss cheese” model is a metaphor for how risk can be reduced through overlapping and redundant safety systems.
The “Swiss cheese” model is a metaphor for how risk can be reduced through overlapping and redundant safety systems.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
Pro climber Brent Barghahn has some impressive free climbing ascents of El Capitan, and definitely knows a thing or two about what to bring on a big wall. Here's a link to his checklist from a helpful blog article he wrote.
Pro climber Brent Barghahn has some impressive free climbing ascents of El Capitan, and definitely knows a thing or two about what to bring on a big wall. Here's a link to his checklist from his helpful blog article he wrote.
Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)
