OpenBeta Forums

Snapgate or locking carabiners on anchors? — Alpinesavvy

When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look.

Protect your fixed rope from edge abrasion with a sling — Alpinesavvy

If you have a fixed rope (either for a rappel or anchor) and it's loaded over an edge, you risk damaging it. Here's one method to easily move the load onto a sling and away from your rope.

Descend by self-lowering — Alpinesavvy

Rappelling isn’t the only way to get down a cliff. One other option is the self-lower. There are a few considerations, pros and cons, learn ‘em here.

Will Gadd: Keeping your hands and feet warm, Part 3 — Alpinesavvy

The last of a three part series: battle tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm.

Protect a fixed rope with a rebelay — Alpinesavvy

If a fixed rope is loaded over an edge, it might get damaged. Here's a simple technique to save your rope: the rebelay.

Three ways to equalize crevasse rescue anchors — Alpinesavvy

In crevasse rescue, you often build one anchor and transfer the load to it. Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2. Here are three methods to dial in this equalization.

How do you rappel past a damaged section of rope? — Alpinesavvy

You’re rappelling, and unexpectedly came to a damaged section of rope that you didn't notice from above. How would you get past it? Here’s one method.

Will Gadd: Keeping your hands warm, Part 2 — Alpinesavvy — Alpinesavvy

Here are some winter-tested tips from Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part two of a series of three articles.

Will Gadd - Keeping your hands warm, part 1 — Alpinesavvy

Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd shares some of his top tips for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part one of a series of three articles.

Load transfer - the stirrup hoist — Alpinesavvy

Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method but it's quick and simple.

Off route! — Alpinesavvy

The Swiss cheese model of risk mitigation — Alpinesavvy

The “Swiss cheese” model is a metaphor for how risk can be reduced through overlapping and redundant safety systems.

Off route! — Alpinesavvy

Head scratcher - can you solve this rappel problem? — Alpinesavvy

Think you're good at solving climbing problems on the fly? See if you can figure out this one!

How to safely shorten your tether — Alpinesavvy

Need to shorten your connection to the anchor when using a tether? It's common to unclip and reclip your locking carabiner, but this can increase the chances of clipping it incorrectly. Here's a simple and more secure method.

Worldwide climbing accident reports — Alpinesavvy

Starting in 1948, the American Alpine Club has published an annual report of climbing related accidents in the US and Canada. What other countries do the same? Here is a summary. If you can add to it, let me know!

How to rappel on marginal anchors — Alpinesavvy

Someday, you'll find yourself at a rappel anchor that is Less Than Ideal. Here are some tips to hopefully get you and your partner down in one piece.

The frugal climber's stick slip — Alpinesavvy

Do you enjoy ankle breaking ground fall potential with the crux just before the first bolt? (Smith Rock Oregon, I'm looking at you!)  Cool, neither do I. Enter the frugal climber’s DIY stick clip. All you need is a stick, some tape, and a rock.

Can (or should) you resling cams yourself? — Alpinesavvy

The webbing on your cam slings has a lifespan of about 10 years. What do you do then? Ideally, send it to the manufacturer for replacement, but that's not always possible. Here are some DIY options, and a list of all known places you can get replacement cam slings.