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AlpineSavvyA

AlpineSavvy

@AlpineSavvy
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Recent Best Controversial

  • How to add a GPX file to your phone
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app.
    Premium Article available


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    How to add a GPX file to your phone — Alpinesavvy

    Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Start your anchor with a quickdraw
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Arriving at an bolt anchor with a small stance? Clip a quick draw to the bolt, and then either clip or clove hitch yourself to the draw. This secures you while you build the rest of the anchor. Use the top carabiner of the quick draw as part of the anchor. See a step-by-step and photo sequence for both multi pitch and top rope.
    Premium Article available


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    Start your anchor with a quickdraw — Alpinesavvy

    Arriving at a bolt anchor with a small stance? Clip a quick draw to the bolt, and then either clip or clove hitch yourself to the draw. This secures you while you build the rest of the anchor. Use the top carabiner of the quick draw as part of the anchor. See a step-by-step and photo sequence for both multi pitch and top rope.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Trees for climbing anchors: Part 1, Overview
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Want to learn some #CraftyRopeTricks for using trees as climbing anchors? The deep dive series on tree anchors covers general principles, and rigging systems for rappel, top rope, and multi pitch climbing. 
    Premium Article available


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    Trees for climbing anchors: Part 1, Overview — Alpinesavvy

    Want to learn some #CraftyRopeTricks for using trees as climbing anchors? This deep-dive series on tree anchors covers general principles, and rigging systems for rappel, top rope, and multi pitch climbing.

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    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • How to (safely) clean an overhanging route
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    When lowering off and cleaning an overhanging route, you may have a problem at the bottom quick draw. If you unclip that and let go, you're probably gonna take a big swing, which may be into something dangerous. Here are two techniques to solve this problem.
    Premium Article available


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    How to (safely) clean an overhanging route — Alpinesavvy

    When lowering off and cleaning an overhanging route, you may have a problem at the bottom quick draw. If you unclip that and let go, you're probably gonna take a big swing, which may be into something dangerous. Here are two techniques to solve this problem.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Find free camping on public lands with these mapping tools
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Being able to see in real time on your phone if you’re on public lands or not is helpful for all kinds of things, especially finding free dispersed camping spots. Here’s how to use some modern mapping tools like Caltopo and Gaia GPS to do this.


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    Find free camping on public lands with these mapping tools — Alpinesavvy

    Being able to see in real time on your phone if you’re on public lands or not is helpful for all kinds of things, especially finding free dispersed camping spots. Here’s how to use some modern mapping tools like Caltopo and Gaia GPS to do this.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 5)
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Five more quick tips on best practices. This post covers: 1) When to untie your rappel stopper knot, 2) the proper direction for a Grigri when belaying from the anchor, 3) how not to carry your satcom device, 4) how to shorten a sewn loop daisy chain, and 5) why to keep your anchor low on a tree.
    Premium Article available


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    Off route! | Explore Climbing Skills Today — Alpinesavvy

    Discover expert climbing tips, route maps, gear advice, and navigation techniques to enhance your backcountry adventures and mountaineering skills.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Stirrups for rope ascending
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Aid climbing requires lots of fixed rope ascending. The traditional way to do this is using your ”lead” ladders. However, an adjustable, comfortable and lightweight stirrup is a superior tool.
    Premium Article available


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    Stirrups for rope ascending — Alpinesavvy

    Aid climbing requires lots of fixed rope ascending. The traditional way to do this is using your ”lead” ladders. However, an adjustable, comfortable and lightweight stirrup is a superior tool.

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    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Rappel tips for tricky terrain
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    In most rappels, getting the rope down is pretty straightforward: give each strand a toss and hope for the best. However, challenging terrain and conditions may require some specialized techniques. Here are a few.
    Premium Article available


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    Rappel tips for tricky terrain — Alpinesavvy

    In most rappels, getting the rope down is pretty straightforward: give each strand a toss and hope for the best. However, challenging terrain and conditions may require some specialized techniques. Here are a few.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • DIY - Ice tool tethers
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Tool tethers prevent the gigantic problem of dropping an ice tool on a long alpine route. The commercial ones work fine; however they can be a bit expensive. Here's a way to make your own.
    Premium Article available


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    DIY - Ice tool tethers — Alpinesavvy

    Tool tethers prevent the gigantic problem of dropping an ice tool on a long alpine route. The commercial ones work fine; however they can be a bit expensive. Here's a way to make your own.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 2)
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.)
    Premium Article available


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    Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 2) — Alpinesavvy

    A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em.)

    favicon

    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • What are the “Screaming Barfies”?
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it.
    Premium Article available


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    What are the “Screaming Barfies”? — Alpinesavvy

    Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Ice climbing - environmental “red flags”
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    As ice climbing season winds down, it becomes more important to consider environmental conditions as potential hazards. Here are five of them. Guest post from IFMGA Guide Kel Rossiter.


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    Ice climbing - environmental “red flags” — Alpinesavvy

    As ice climbing season winds down, it becomes more important to consider environmental conditions as potential hazards. Here are five of them. Guest post from IFMGA Guide Kel Rossiter.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Alpine retreat anchors - Part 2
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. See examples of strong and simple rigging here.
    Premium Article available


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    Alpine retreat anchors - Part 2 — Alpinesavvy

    Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. But when you need to, there are some specific requirements. See examples of strong and simple rigging here.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • How to sling hooks
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Hooks are crucial gear for aid climbing, but they are a bit unusual: most require you to add a sling. Here are a few tricks and best practices for slinging your hooks.
    Premium Article available


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    Off route! | Explore Climbing Skills Today — Alpinesavvy

    Discover expert climbing tips, route maps, gear advice, and navigation techniques to enhance your backcountry adventures and mountaineering skills.

    favicon

    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Protect a fixed rope with a rebelay
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    If a fixed rope is loaded over an edge, it might get damaged. Here's a simple technique to save your rope: the rebelay.


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    Protect a fixed rope with a rebelay — Alpinesavvy

    If a fixed rope is loaded over an edge, it might get damaged. Here's a simple technique to save your rope: the rebelay.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Will Gadd: Keeping your hands warm, Part 1
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd shares some of his top tips for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part one of a series of three articles.


    Link Preview Image
    Will Gadd - Keeping your hands warm, part 1 — Alpinesavvy

    Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd shares some of his top tips for keeping your hands (and feet) warm. This is part one of a series of three articles.

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • How to safely shorten your tether
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Need to shorten your connection to the anchor when using a tether? It's common to unclip and reclip your locking carabiner, but this can increase the chances of clipping it incorrectly. Here's a simple and more secure method.


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    How to safely shorten your tether — Alpinesavvy

    Need to shorten your connection to the anchor when using a tether? It's common to unclip and reclip your locking carabiner, but this can increase the chances of clipping it incorrectly. Here's a simple and more secure method.

    favicon

    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy

  • Worldwide climbing accident reports
    AlpineSavvyA AlpineSavvy

    Starting in 1948, the American Alpine Club has published an annual report of climbing related accidents in the US and Canada. What other countries do the same? Here is a summary. If you can add to it, let me know!


    Link Preview Image
    Worldwide climbing accident reports — Alpinesavvy

    Starting in 1948, the American Alpine Club has published an annual report of climbing related accidents in the US and Canada. What other countries do the same? Here is a summary. If you can add to it, let me know!

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    Alpinesavvy (www.alpinesavvy.com)

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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