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Is 10 minutes enough time to recover between hard flash attenpts?

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  • Lara Neumeier repeats Psychogramm, 8b+ (Trad)

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    German climber Lara Neumeier has made the fourth ascent, and first female ascent, of Psychogramm, 8b+ (Trad) at Brser Platte, Austria. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=779911
  • 0 Votes
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    kodrausK
    I was happy to get through this slab in the end after dedicating a session to falling off it. The "fifth position" foot sequence was the trick.#climbinghttps://vimeo.com/1051000251
  • 1 Votes
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Ice is a fickle medium that is hard to assess. This month we’re highlighting an accident report from ANAC 2023 involving a leader fall that was compounded by pulled protection. Though the climber was very experienced, this accident underlines that even as more people climb ice than ever before, it takes years of experience to accurately gauge conditions. Also, climate change is increasing the hazards of rockfall, avalanches, ice collapse, and generally warmer ice. Utah County Sheriff’s Search and Rescue was dispatched at 11:09 a.m. on December 26 to aid an ice climber who had fallen from the first pitch of Finger of Fate (3 pitches, WI4+) in Provo Canyon. The climber, Tim Thompson (29), was nearing the end of the first pitch when ice sheared from under his left foot. He wrote to ANAC that he was “pushed forward into my ice tools and my relaxed grip caused me to fall.” Thompson’s uppermost screw pulled out of the ice, causing him to fall a total of 50 feet. Utah County team members arrived and, with the help of the climbers already on scene, evaluated the ice conditions, established an equalized anchor with six screws at the base of the climb, and developed a plan to move the patient horizontally about 100 feet over steep, slippery terrain to a five-by-ten-foot ledge that was out of the rockfall and icefall area. Conditions were deteriorating, the ice was becoming less cohesive as temperatures rose, and rocks were starting to fall. A Department of Public Safety (DPS) helicopter crew did a reconnaissance of the ledge and determined that it would be a suitable place for a hoist operation. The patient was then short-hauled from the ledge to a nearby parking lot, where an ambulance was waiting. He was airlifted to a hospital and assessed to have two broken vertebrae, a broken elbow, torn ligaments in an elbow, and a badly broken left wrist. Warm conditions make ice climbing hazardous. Recalls Thompson: “The weather was warm the day before. Temps overnight were about 28°F for almost 10 or 12 hours and were hovering around 31°F or 32°F while climbing. We felt confident that the ice had had enough time to heal, and that as long as we climbed quickly, we were in no danger.” Running water, heat retained by the underlying rock, and even indirect solar radiation can prevent ice from refreezing. The warm temperatures also affected the quality of Thompson’s protection. He wrote to ANAC, “When I put in the last ice screw, the ice was really soft. Up until the last quarter of the route, the ice [had been] really healthy and the screw placements were really good. I got several really solid screws lower on the route, and the second-to-last one (the one that caught me) was in really bomber ice.” Thompson did well to place extra gear that he might have dismissed as unnecessary. Before the final section of the pitch, he says, “I remember pulling onto the ice after a ledge rest and deciding to step back down and place a high screw. I knew that would be a lot of protection, as the last screw was just below my feet. But if I had not placed this screw, I would have hit the deck from almost 100 feet up. Things could have been a lot worse.” Sources: Salt Lake County Sheriff’s Search and Rescue and Tim Thompson. Warm conditions make ice climbing hazardous. Pete Takeda, editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and IMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin are back to explain the hazards ice climbers face in warm conditions, such as protection pulling, poor tool placements, and shearing crampons. Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney; Editor: Sierra McGivney Location: Silver Plume Falls, Silver Plume, CO Over time an ice climber learns to gauge conditions and most importantly, when to go for it and when to back off. This is a long and experience-based learning curve. The biggest lesson is: If it doesn’t feel right, don’t do it. Whether a novice or an experienced ice climber, don’t factor luck into your decision-making. Utah guide Derek DeBruin’s flowchart is a handy tool to assess ice climbing decision-making on any given day: This flowchart can assist in managing hazards by helping determine the stability of the ice, the effectiveness of ice screw... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/12/16/theprescription-december2024
  • The 10 Hardest V17 Boulders in the World

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Sean Bailey has added another V17 to the growing list of hard problems. There are also two V16/17 boulders The post The 10 Hardest V17 Boulders in the World appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-10-hardest-v17-boulders-in-the-world/
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Climbing 5.14d in Hell

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    He sent Purgatory 5.14d in between his Silence 5.15d projecting sessions The post Stefano Ghisolfi Climbing 5.14d in Hell appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/stefano-ghisolfi-climbing-5-14d-in-hell/
  • 0 Votes
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    JCMcHammyJ
    Back from a trip to the Lake District. On the negative side, I didn't get three days climbing... On the super-positive side, I did get two days of Mountain Training Development Coach training with the ever-excellent John Kettle PLUS a day of climbing at Trowbarrow Quarry. As a bonus, also a nice stay at Lyndhurst Guest House in Kendal and a play at KendalWall on their long autobelays.#MountainTraining #Climbing #TradClimbing #Coaching #ClimbingIsMyPassion #Kendal #LakeDistrict #LimestoneClimbing
  • Load transfer: The stirrup hoist

    General News climbing alpinesavvy
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    AlpineSavvyA
    Do you have a big load that you need to move a short distance? Here's one crafty way to do it: the stirrup hoist. This may not be the most efficient method, but it's quick and simple. https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/load-transfer-the-stirrup-hoist
  • Fun #climbing in Dave yesterday.

    Pics and trips climbing
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    IvesI
    Fun #climbing in Dave yesterday. A crag called Rochers de Néviaux. Another old limestone crag bordering the river Meuse. Lots of pockets and overhangs, which I’m not very good at. But fun nevertheless. (not me in the pictures)