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Weekend Whipper: Massive Upside-Down Whipper on Gunks 5.12 Trad

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  • Sean Bailey Does Alphane V17

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    GrippedG
    The popular Shawn Raboutou problem is Bailey's first V17 repeat The post Sean Bailey Does Alphane V17 appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/sean-bailey-does-alphane-v17/
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    Access FundA
    Some of our most iconic climbing areas are located on private land. And while climbers may gaze at these spots in wonder, they could have ended up as pedestals for trophy homes instead of beloved crags without intentional community action. https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/nine-iconic-sport-crags-purchased-and-protected-by-climbers
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hA0Il3az9Q
  • BMC Announces Membership Fee Increase for 2025

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    UK ClimbingU
    The British Mountaineering Council has announced a membership fee increase for 2025. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775144
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    devnullD
    Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste. We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself? I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection! This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought. All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case. [image: 1726449887485-pxl_20240916_011132217-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449891860-pxl_20240916_011143499-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449898882-pxl_20240916_011243263.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1726449903000-pxl_20240916_011433464_exported_1433.jpg]
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m42yrw1AjGk
  • Comin’ In From The Top by Chris Schulte

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    ClimbingZineC
    Way back when, which seems like not so long ago, your guidebooks tended to be a few pages of the barest drab info. Stapled, folded, printed in black and white, with a poor font and a quick-to-mellow yellowish cover of a slightly higher poundage of press that, nevertheless, tended to feature a look like they… https://climbingzine.com/comin-in-from-the-top-by-chris-schulte/
  • Be honest… what was your first pair of #climbing shoes?

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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsZYqTHIL9g