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So that was a good couple of days... Got my Foundation Coach done (thanks to Garland Mountaineering and some very patient students who hung around for me to make it to Exeter), then got to spend a chill evening with a friend (Mark), followed by a comfy...

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  • Question about carabiner orientation

    General Climbing climbing
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    frankpodmore@slrpnk.netF
    I was belaying the other day with a BD GridLock Carabiner (see PDF if you're unfamiliar - it's labelled 'D') and a GriGri. Had an issue that the GriGri worked its way around the carabiner and was pushing against the gate, essentially trying to open it. Now, obviously I did my pre-climbing checks and so the gate was screwed shut, but I was a little concerned anyway. So, I checked out the manual for the GridLock (see PDF) and it says you're meant to put a GriGri the other way around than when using an ATC. So, firstly, just FYI - this is the way Black Diamond say to do it, with the GriGri in the narrow end of the carabiner. Okay, so far so good. But then I noticed that the same image suggests that you put the GridLock so that the gate is on the same side as a the dead rope (right when belaying if you're right handed). I've always done it the other way around, so I was now additionally confused. But wait! It gets weirder! Black Diamond's manual also suggests that with a standard screwgate biner, the gate should also be on the dead rope side. Now, this can't possibly be right, surely? Because the rope could potentially roll the gate open. Now I'm baffled. I've always had the screwgate on the left, away from the rope, because it seems natural to do it that way, and having the screwgate on the right (rope side) seems potentially dangerous, but apparently that's how BD, at least, think it should be done! I'd kinda like an answer to this, given that I'm trusting my climbing buddies' lives to these things. What are /c/climbing's thoughts on this?
  • George Eddy Sending Punks in the Gym 5.14a

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    This was the first-ever sport climb given a 5.14 grade - it's set to be closed this year The post George Eddy Sending Punks in the Gym 5.14a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/george-eddy-sending-punks-in-the-gym-5-14a/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
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    GrippedG
    The wildly dynamic problem features one of the single hardest starting moves in the world The post Olympian Colin Duffy Sends Defying Gravity V15 in One Session appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/olympian-colin-duffy-sends-defying-gravity-v15-in-one-session/
  • I wish every ad was comedy

    Videos climbing hownot2
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTeoec1_wR0
  • Mary Eden Sending Necronomicon, a 5.14a Roof Crack

    General News climbing
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    1 Posts
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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/mary-eden-sending-necronomicon-a-5-14a-roof-crack/
  • 0 Votes
    1 Posts
    34 Views
    climbingC
    OTG is ideal for boulderers and sport climbers with a performance-oriented mindset, particularly those who have an interest in combining training with nutrition. I was surprised to see numerical gains in my testing after just 4 weeks of training. https://www.climbing.com/skills/review-fultz-off-the-ground-training/
  • Best 4th of July Climbing shoe Deals

    General News climbing
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    climbingC
    Shoes are expensive! But these ones are a bit less so. https://www.climbing.com/gear/best-4th-of-july-climbing-shoe-deals/
  • A Simple Guide to Sport Climbing Harder

    General News climbing
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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/skills/sport-climbing/how-to-train-for-sport-climbing/