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  4. Pietro Vidi makes second free ascent of Lurking Fear, 5.13c, El Capitan

Pietro Vidi makes second free ascent of Lurking Fear, 5.13c, El Capitan

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  • GrippedG

    New Granite Multi-Pitch M9 WI6+ Sent in Italy

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The quality new winter route was revealed after several trees were destroyed by a landslide The post New Granite Multi-Pitch M9 WI6+ Sent in Italy appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-granite-multi-pitch-m9-wi6-sent-in-italy/
  • GrippedG

    Time is a New 24-Pitch 5.10 A2 Opened in B.C.

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    GrippedG
    The new Daniels River Valley route was climbed by Cameron Jackson, Mike Friesen, Taylor Ramljak, and Carson Wright The post Time is a New 24-Pitch 5.10 A2 Opened in B.C. appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/time-is-a-new-24-pitch-5-10-a2-opened-in-b-c/
  • American Alpine ClubA

    The Prescription—Ground Fall

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    It’s Rocktober and across the continent climbers are sending their projects. This month we remind you that mishaps in “safe” genres like sport climbing can have serious consequences. This accident occurred in 2019 and was only reported this year. However, in the newly published 2025 ANAC, we feature several similar groundfall accidents. As you’ll also see below, we’re also featuring a human factors post-accident analysis that reveals some recurrent themes and behavior patterns. These are introduced in an article written by Dr. Valerie Karr. On June 22, 2019 B, a male climber was leading Where Egos Dare (5.12a) as a cool-down after a long session. The four-bolt route was easy enough to run a quick lap and as a result B, “didn't take it seriously and was climbing very arrogantly… without careful consideration of the consequences.” Besides being short and punchy, the route also has several hard clips that put the leader within groundfall range. B was, “…cooling down after a hard day of projecting. At the third bolt I pulled a bunch of slack to clip and my foot popped.” He had placed his foot carelessly on a bad part of the hold when it slipped. He had an arm full of slack and, “…decked straight on my butt.” He suffered lumbar compression fractures and fractured sacrum. “I was mere inches away from a shelf that, that had I impacted with my lumbar spine, I would've undoubtedly been paralyzed.” Though in serious pain, he, “walked out under my own steam. Likely due to adrenaline.” B fell approximately 15 feet. A pit/trough below Where Egos Dare created a ledge that one could hit in a fall. He had stick clipped the first bolt but, “Had I stick clipped the third, this accident wouldn't have happened. Back then I considered it ‘cheating’ to clip more than the first, which in retrospect is silly.” He adds, “Sport climbing is flippin’ dangerous! For all the sketchy gear routes I've done in my life it was a 35' tall 12a sport climb that nearly cost me the ability to walk. Unfortunately, I don't think most sport climbers have a clue about this.” Finally, the fallen climber said, “I’d add that one should climb more carefully. Because this route was well below my redpoint level I didn't take it seriously. Ultimately, I put my foot to the right of the actual foothold and that is what did me in. Luckily, I'm physically 100% now, but it was such a close call that I definitely have residual psychological effects. My wife still has trouble belaying me despite it not being her fault. I think the psychological impacts of such accidents cannot be overstated.” (Source: Anonymous Climber.) This groundfall is a classic case of risk normalization in which repeated exposure to hazards without consequence, lowers the perception of danger. Over time, shortcuts—clipping from poor stances, eschewing procedures like a higher stick clip, and a casual approach to moderate climbing—diminish the perceived hazards of consequential terrain. On the day of his accident, B admitted he was climbing “carelessly,” on a warm-down route that was well within his ability. Other distracting factors contributed to an atmosphere of informality and distractions at the base of the crag that compounded a sense of invulnerability. B’s narrative also reveals how cultural values within climbing can magnify risk through what he called the “purity ethics.”Beyond simple overconfidence, B acknowledged an internalized idea that stick clipping beyond the first bolt was “cheating.” This belief overrode pragmatic risk assessment. Only after his accident did he reframe those values, prioritizing safety over style with an understanding that it’s “all contrived anyway.” (Source: Dr. Valerie Karr.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/10/15/the-prescriptionground-fall
  • ClimbingZineC

    Dirtbag Paradise by Amber Roepke (a poem)

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    It’s your mom’s minivan pimped out And only seats two Because if it wasn’t hard enough to live in a van It’s way harder to hook up in one   This poem is published in The Climbing Zine Book 2, now available. Banner photo by: Kristen Hughes   With a full set of seats in… https://climbingzine.com/dirtbag-paradise-amber-roepke-poem/
  • GrippedG

    A Wildfire is Out of Control in Squamish

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    The town of Squamish has asked motorists to not stop to observe the fire The post A Wildfire is Out of Control in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/a-wildfire-is-out-of-control-in-squamish/
  • EpicTVE

    How to sharpen your ice axe

    Videos climbing
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    EpicTVE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGzQLSXMiYg
  • American Alpine ClubA

    Outdoor Alliance and American Alpine Club Working Together to Protect Rock Climbing Landscapes

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    Climbers have a meaningful relationship with the landscapes they love, and advocating for public lands is a critical piece of that relationship. Outdoor recreationists have a powerful connection to place, and that connection makes us a powerful force for conservation. Outdoor Alliance is a national coalition of outdoor recreation advocacy groups that American Alpine Club has been a part of for six years, and together, we work to protect public lands and waters and advocate for climbing and other outdoor recreation. The AAC is the largest community of climbers in the country, and is dedicated to advocating for climbing landscapes and resourcing climbers with essential climbing knowledge and rescue coverage. Since Outdoor Alliance started ten years ago, the coalition has helped protect 40 million acres of public land and water, secured $5.1 billion in funding for the outdoors, and has converted hundreds of thousands of outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor advocates. Here are some of important victories that the American Alpine Club (AAC) and Outdoor Alliance (OA) have notched together: The EXPLORE Act is a first-of-its-kind package of outdoor recreation policy that has been a priority for Outdoor Alliance for many years; the package recently passed the House. It includes sections that will directly protect rock climbing experiences on public lands, a big priority for the AAC.  The Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) Act is a significant piece of the EXPLORE Act, and has been a focus for the AAC, Access Fund, and the wider Outdoor Alliance coalition. The PARC Act is intended to ensure safe and sustainable access to rock climbing in designated Wilderness areas. It requires federal agencies to recognize recreational climbing as an appropriate activity in accordance with the Wilderness Act of 1964, which states that the placement, use, and maintenance of fixed anchors is appropriate, and ensures that a public comment period is made available to stakeholders prior to any final climbing management guidance being issued. The AAC has also educated their members about the SOAR Act, joining the AMGA who is one of the principle long-time supportess of the SOAR Act. This is another piece of the EXPLORE Act which will streamline recreational permitting for outfitters and guides, benefiting other Outdoor Alliance members like The Mountaineers, Mazamas, and Colorado Mountain Club.   Now that The House has voted to pass EXPLORE, the AAC and OA are advocating for the Senate to also get it across the finish line. Learn more and write your lawmakers about it here.  In 2018, the Trump Administration rolled back protections for the Bears Ears National Monument by more than 80% and Grand Staircase-Escalante by nearly half. Since then, the AAC and its partners at Outdoor Alliance have been continuously educating outdoor enthusiasts about the fight to preserve Bears Ears. This included a lawsuit led by Access Fund against the Trump administration, advocating for the monument to be restored, and participating in a public comment on a new management plan for the restored monument. In 2021, the Biden-Harris Administration restored protections for Bears Ears and the Grand Staircase, which honored the voices of Indigenous communities, climbers, and conservationists alike. The coalition work led by Outdoor Alliance was hugely impactful in bringing outdoor recreationists together on this issue. The AAC is committed to keeping their members updated on future management plans and staying active in this ongoing discussion. The AAC will continue advocating for the role of climbing and responsible conservation by sharing their expertise on land management issues pertaining to climbing, and interfacing with land management agencies, the BLM and USFS, as well as other partners and local and national climbing organizations, to continue to refine the Bears Ears National Monument Draft Resource Management Plan and Environmental Impact Statement... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/6/27/outdoor-alliance-and-american-alpine-club-working-together-to-protect-rock-climbing-landscapesnbsp
  • ClimbingZineC

    To Live and Die in Yosemite by Luke Mehall (an excerpt)

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    Though I’ve been dangling off the cliffs of Yosemite for twenty-plus years now, I couldn’t help but feel overwhelmed with intimidation at the base of the roof crack known as Separate Reality.   Taylor and I had just rappelled in, and it was his lead, which was just fine with me. Taylor is a relatively…<hr /><p><a href="https://climbingzine.com/to-live-and-die-in-yosemite-by-luke-mehall/">https://climbingzine.com/to-live-and-die-in-yosemite-by-luke-mehall/</a>