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Staša Gejo Climbs an Austrian V13

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8 Jul 2024, 06:00

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    More than a year after making the ascent, Andy Lamb has announced the first ascent of Event Horizon (f8C+), at Grand Wall Boulders, in Squamish. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=783051
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    How would you describe the scope of the work that goes into making the American Alpine Journal (AAJ)? Dougald MacDonald: Producing the AA J is a year-round effort that involves literally hundreds of people. The actual “staff” of the AAJ (who are all part-timers and volunteers) includes more than 15 people, and each year we work with roughly 300 individual climbers and photographers to share their stories. The book goes to press in late April, so the peak of the cycle is in March and April. But the work on the following year’s edition starts immediately, plus we prepare and upload online stories all year round. AND we produce The Cutting Edge podcast and the monthly Line newsletter. What’s the history of the AAJ? How has it changed over the years? DM: The AAJ is coming up on its 100th birthday, and unsurprisingly it has changed quite a lot over the years. It started out as much more of a Club publication, telling the stories of AAC members’ adventures. In the 1950s, with the rise of Himalayan climbing, the book started to become much more international. But it was really Ad Carter—who edited the AAJ for 35 years, starting in the 1960s—who created the wide-ranging, international publication it is today. We no longer focus mostly on the activities of AAC members—though we’re very happy to tell those stories when we can—but instead try to document all significant long routes and mountain exploration anywhere in the world, by climbers from every country. For both the AAJ and Accidents in North American Climbing (ANAC), the most significant changes of the last 10 to 15 years have been 1) the introduction of color photography throughout both books and 2) the launch of the searchable online database of every AAJ and ANAC article ever published. What’s an example of a unique challenge the editors have to deal with when making the AAJ? DM: One challenge is that we come out so long after many of the climbs actually happened. So, readers may have seen something about any given climb several times, in news reports and social media posts and even video productions. But the AAJ has never been in the breaking news business. Instead, we aim to provide perspective and context. Perspective in that we don’t have any vested interest that might slant a story one way or another, and context on the history and geography that helps readers really understand the significance of a climb, how it relates to what’s been done before, and what other opportunities might be out there. Another big challenge is language barriers, since we work with people from all over the world. We’re fortunate to work in English, which so many people around the world use these days. We also use skilled translators for some stories, and online translation tools have improved dramatically in recent years. But there’s still a lot of back-and-forth with authors to ensure we’re getting everything just right. What’s an example report that was really exciting for you to edit from the last few years? DM: For me, personally, the coolest stories are the ones that teach me about an area of the world—or a moment in climbing history—that I knew nothing about before starting to work on a story. In the upcoming book, for example, we have stories about winter climbing in Greece (who knew?) and a mountain range in Venezuela that’s gorgeous and has peaks over 16,000 feet. Unfortunately, that range is rapidly losing its snow cover and its small glaciers. AAJ senior editor Lindsay Griffin, who is editing the story, did some cool climbs in the range in 1985, and the difference between his photos and those from today is shocking. Are there any big differences in process between making the AAJ and ANAC? DM: The biggest differences are just the scale and scope of the two books: The AAJ is a nearly 400-page book that tries to cover the entir... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/19/guidebook-xivan-interview-with-dougald-macdonald
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    His book Pushing the Limits published in the year 2000 is one of the most important pieces of climbing writing ever produced in North America The post Chic Scott Receives the Order of Canada appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/chic-scott-receives-the-order-of-canada/
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    For experienced ice climbers looking for a challenge, here's a list of routes that will push your limits in the Canadian Rockies The post Five WI6+ Ice Climbs That Will Test Your Skills appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/five-wi6-ice-climbs-that-will-test-your-skills/
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    He's now climbed most of the most difficult gear routes in England and Scotland The post Steve McClure Climbs 5.14R Trad in the U.K. appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/steve-mcclure-climbs-5-14r-trad-in-the-u-k/
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    On this episode of the Undercover Crusher series, we have Connie Shang on the podcast to talk about her recent send of Spyfiction, a 5.14c in Mt. Charleston, Nevada. We discuss her projecting process, how she’s leveled up over the years, how she got so strong without training, what counts as a crusher in today’s climbing world and especially for women’s climbing, and plateaus on the moonboard. She also talks about her unique perspective on climbing-work balance, that perhaps more of us should consider utilizing! Love to hear about hard climbing, but want to hear from someone who’s a little more relatable than the pros? The Undercover Crushers series is here for your inspiration! Dive in! Learn More about Connie Shang Other Undercover Crusher Episodes https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/10/18/climb-undercover-crusher-connie-shang
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    Take advantage of some of the year's best camping weather with these fall picks The post The Best Fall Camping Gear Essentials appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/gear/buyers-guide/the-best-fall-camping-gear-essentials/
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_G6_vCvB5A