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Preview of our Sonnie Trotter Conversation (with Cliff Cash poetry)

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    American Alpine ClubA
    I move, therefore I am. I reminded myself of this throughout the journey to and from Arviqtujuq Kangiqtua, formerly known as Eglinton Fjord. Throughout our five-week, multi-sport, primarily human-powered expedition to Baffin Island, in the Canadian Arctic, Kelly Fields, Shira Biner, Natalie Afonina, and I continued to move. We skied over 100 miles across the sea ice in order to get there, and we slogged for another 100 miles over moraine fields, loose talus, sinking meadows, a frozen lake, and a partially frozen river to get out. Movement was our rule, our rhythm. And as a team of three women and a non-binary person, we were motivated to define this movement on our own terms. Kelly, Shira, Natalie, and I met for the first time in person at the Ottawa Airport en route to the Arctic. Only a few of us had tied in together before this trip. Prior to our real-life introduction, we spent months exchanging messages, photos, screenshots, videos, and group calls on WhatsApp. Now, past the logistical chaos of prep for this expedition, we still had a lot of learning to do about each other. I’m lucky in that I know an abundance of female, non-binary, and queer people who are incredible climbing partners. I prefer to rope up with them because of my ongoing struggles with self-confidence and self-trust that I learned in the shadow of my male climbing partners. Here was an opportunity to move toward my goals and the style of climbing that most inspires me, alongside a group of people who uplift one another. When we received our first grant—the McNeill-Nott Award from the American Alpine Club—I started to feel that other people believed in us, which gave me more belief in myself. Representation is important, and the organizations that supported us believed that too. It was coming together all too perfectly. I stared at the vast ice and seascape before me: Circles of white interrupted the piercing blue water that settled up to a foot deep in some places. We were leaving the bay in the small Inuit community of Clyde River. The gray sky let go of gentle snowflakes that melted on my sunglasses, making my surroundings appear as if I were looking out a window on a rainy day. “So...how thick is this ice?” I asked, my voice wavering. The last time I had put skis on was a number of years ago. On snow, on solid ground. However, I was soon submerged within and captivated by the ice’s symphony as we glided, heaved, soared over, walked, and trudged—depending on the conditions of the sea ice—over a hundred miles on a seascape that was constantly changing. Moving through that environment was dictated by the wind, temperature, snow, and our bodies’ needs. One moment, we would be trapped in a cloud, the snow absorbing the sound around us and sticking to our ski skins so thick that we had to take them off. Moments later, after turning a corner, the winds had blown the clouds and snow off the surface, and we found ourselves flying over the best ice conditions we had yet experienced. That landscape spoke to me, telling me that it, too, exists in states of movement and change. I often look to the natural world to find my own sense of belonging. Being a non-binary person often means that I don’t always find a type of belonging that is representative. I struggle in groups of men. In groups of women, I push back on the definitions and create an exclusionary space for myself. Asking for a non-binary category creates the exact thing I don’t want to exist within: a category. One day, I hope I can exist in a way that is outside the confines of man or woman—that I can exist as myself without needing to choose between explaining and educating, or quietly disrespecting myself. The thing about gender, being non-binary specifically, is that it’s simultaneously the most painful and most beautiful experience one can have. There is a deep gratitude in being the truest form of yourself; there is a wholeness in accepting one’s authenticity. It can also often be painful to a core level. My relationship with gender is like the Arctic wind: always present, sometimes gentle and caressing, other times a chaos that threatens to knock me down. I felt the spirits skiing into Arviqtujuq Kangiqtua. Finally, among those great walls, exhausted, hungry, sore, and cold, we debated where to set up our base camp and had a hard time getting anywhere productive with it. I remember feeling confused about how I could be in the greatest place I’ve ever stood, a place that made my soul feel so full, yet in conditions that m... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/11/4/guidebook-xvigrant-spotlight
  • Suicide and Pirates by Andrew Allport

    General News climbing climbingzine
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    ClimbingZineC
    My father taught me how to climb, just as he taught me how to play guitar and ski—badly, I could say. But that isn’t quite right. Perhaps impatiently or unevenly. As a teacher, he managed to combine a sense of high expectations with a stunning lack of actual instruction. I would follow his skin track… https://climbingzine.com/suicide-pirates-andrew-allport/
  • Karakoram’s Eternal Flame Freed by Team

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Four Germans made a team free ascent of the high-altitude 5.13 granite alpine route The post Karakoram’s Eternal Flame Freed by Team appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/eternal-flame-on-trango-tower-fkkarakorams-eternal-flame-freed-by-teamarakorams-eternal-flame-freed-by-team-of-fourreed-by-team-of-four/
  • Fri Night Vid Pretty Strong - Sierra Blair

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    Despite receiving criticism and abuse for the way she looked and engaged with an old-fashioned climbing community on social media, Sierra Blair was making the most of her talent and motivation, breaking stereotypes, and redefining what a modern climber looks like. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=783267
  • The Best Weekend Whippers of 2024

    General News climbing
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    climbingC
    We published 51 new Weekend Whippers in 2024. These three are our favorites. https://www.climbing.com/videos/best-weekend-whippers-2024/
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    GrippedG
    A new series where we look at the complete history of climbing, starting long before it became a sport The post The History of Why We Climb, Part Two: Talismans, Sieges and Gods appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/special-feature/the-history-of-why-we-climb-part-two-talismans-sieges-and-gods/
  • Famous Rock Climbing Film Released Online

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    Udo Neumann is one of the world’s most famous high performance climbers, and he’s been at the centre of climbing […] The post Famous Rock Climbing Film Released Online appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/famous-rock-climbing-film-released-online/
  • New Himalayan Alpine Route Took 7 Days

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/uncategorized/new-himalayan-alpine-route-took-7-days/