Originally published in Guidebook XIII
Jessica Anaruk and Micah Tedeschi spent the short summer season of Alaska on separate drift boats for sockeye salmon. Their days were long and filled with hours of manual labor, setting the net on the ocean and picking fish. It was not uncommon for Anaruk to work 16 hours and get around three to four hours of sleep most nightsâher captain was an aggressive fisher. But at the end of their season, they were trading in their XTRATUF boots for climbing shoes and, powered by the AACâs Catalyst Grant, heading to the big walls of the Mendenhall Towers, seven granite towers that rise high above the surrounding Mendenhall Glacier in southeast Alaska.
Anaruk and Tedeschi met while living in Durango, Colorado. A 24-hour car ride to El Potrero Chico, Mexico, with mutual friends solidified their friendship. After a week and a half of climbing on limestone in the desert, the origins of this expedition were born. Tedeschi was intrigued by Anarukâs experience of commercial fishing in Alaska. Their conversations poured like concrete, solidifying when spoken. They would spend the upcoming summer fishing and then go on a climbing trip afterward. A unique pairing of sea and land.
âMy goal throughout my life is to get to know different parts of Alaska, and [in] this season in my life, the mountains of Southeast Alaska are drawing me in. I intend to create a relationship with this part of Alaska that I admire deeply,â wrote Jessica Anaruk in her grant application.
A few summers ago, Anaruk was interning in southeast Alaska. She spent a lot of time on the water gazing at the surrounding mountains, dreaming of climbing on the tall peaks. Her passion for Alaskaâs fierce oceans and grand mountains is a deep fire that runs through her.
âI think itâs fun to go to all these different places and to see the vast difference of the mountains ... and just to get to know it more and connect to the land,â said Anaruk.
They embarked on a training trip to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in May of 2024. Since they would encounter unfamiliar terrain in Alaska, they chose The Scenic Cruise (1,700â, 13 pitches, 5.10d), a route that was longer and more challenging than the routes they planned to climb on the Mendenhall Towers.
After that, their summer at sea began, and there was no climbing in sight.
Growing up in Akiachak and Anchorage, Alaska, as well as in Oregon, Jessica Anaruk was always on the water. Jessica is Yupâik from the Akiachak community. Every summer, she and her family returned to their fish camp on a slough of the Kuskokwim River to subsistence fish for salmon, fishing for personal, family, and community consumption.
âReturning to commercial fish[ing] is a way Iâm able to express this part of myself while also making an income. I learn something new about the land, the work itself, as well as myself every time I return,â said Anaruk.
In contrast, sometimes climbing feels like being alone at sea. âBeing an Indigenous woman in climbing is definitely not something I see very often,â reflected Anaruk.
They fished almost every tide, twice a day. Bristol Bay is home to six major pristine water systems and 31 federally recognized tribes, including the Central Yupâik, Alutiiq/ Sugpiaq, and Denaâina. The bay is divided into five management districts; each opens and closes to fishing for periods of time. This allows salmon to lay eggs upriver, repopulat- ing and continuing to thrive so fishing remains sustainable. The district Tedeschi was fishing in would open for 12 hours and then close for another 12 hours, allowing more time to rest and relax.
In contrast, Anarukâs captain and district allowed for more aggressive fishing. It wasnât uncommon for Anaruk to work 16-hour days picking and setting the net. Despite the exhausting labor, the early-morning sunrises, the two-hour-long sunsets, and seeing bears roaming the beach keep Anaruk coming back.
âWhat sustains me is how it continually connects me to my culture, the land, salmon, and people,â said Anaruk.
Physically, commercial fishing doesnât translate much into climbing beyond picking fish out of the net, which requires hand strength. But the mental aspect prepares you for long, arduou...
https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/2/4/guidebook-xiiigrant-spotlight
