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Katie Lamb climbs The Rookery, 8B+

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31 Mar 2025, 19:00

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    It is with great appreciation that the American Alpine Club honors and celebrates the life of Virginia (Ginnie) Boucher—an unsung hero in the Club’s history.  Virginia Boucher was the chair for the AAC Library Committee for a decade, and a driving force in introducing best practices to the AAC Library from the 1990s onward—including online access to the AAC’s library catalog, expansion of library staff, and implementing interlibrary loans in this highly niche space of mountaineering libraries and literature. Boucher was also instrumental in the physical move of the AAC Library from the AAC’s original Clubhouse in New York to its current location among the mountains of Golden, Colorado.  Boucher received the 2005 Angelo Heilprin Citation from the AAC for exemplary service to the Club, thanks to her transformational leadership at the AAC Library. Not only did her leadership bring the full force of library science to bear on this now world-renowned library and archive, but she also helped steward the acquisition of many pieces of the John M. Boyle Himalayan Collection and the Nicholas B. Clinch Collection, two keystone collections in the AAC’s current holdings.  In the notes announcing her award of the Heilprin Citation, the Award Committee shares some tidbits that suggest that Boucher wasn’t just the bookish type—she also had a flair for adventure. The committee notes that she and her husband, Stanley Boucher–a lifetime member of the AAC—were known for their unplanned night descents, and had a hilarious story about fighting off porcupines in the San Juans. She climbed the Grand Teton, Rainier, and many of Colorado’s mountains, and in her early years started off her climbing at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs.  Boucher’s extensive impact as a volunteer for the AAC’s Library Committee was fueled by her love for the mountains and her calling as a librarian. But by the time she was serving on the committee, she had left climbing behind her. In her autobiography, she writes of this part of herself: “I know a number of those who have ‘summited’ Mount Everest…those who are addicted to boulders, and a few such as myself who climb [only] in our memories.” But even so, climbing was a part of her history and identity, and after shepherding the AAC Library into the world-class institution it is today, she recalls how her volunteer involvement with the AAC Library brought her full-circle in her career: “I have drawn upon my special library experience…to give the best advice I can to this emerging and unique library… And finally, I have returned to my beginnings; I shelve books once again.” https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/5/13/a-tribute-to-virginia-boucher
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    Babsi Zangerl is one of the world's most accomplished climbers, with 5.14+ trad, an El Capitan flash and now a 5.15 sport route The post Babsi Zangerl Climbs Her First 5.15a appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/babsi-zangerl-climbs-her-first-5-15a/
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    This big new line was climbed over several days at the end of April. It ends on a rarely visited summit The post New 1,000-Metre Alaska Alpine Mixed Route appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-1000-metre-alaska-alpine-mixed-route/
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    New footage of the accomplished German climber on a hard new project has been released The post Alex Megos Projecting Possible 5.15+ in U.S.A. appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/alex-megos-projecting-possible-5-15-in-u-s-a/
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    https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/climber-stewards-roll-into-sending-season-at-iconic-locations
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zSHzFr_UDc
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    Okay, I did a thing. Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage. After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result. [image: 1724386660906-pxl_20240822_143020828-resized.jpg] [image: 1724386655118-pxl_20240822_194756349-resized.jpg] [image: 1724386621597-pxl_20240822_204026195.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1724387298601-pxl_20240823_021253567-resized.jpg] Some notes The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush. There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect! I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once! I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches. Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars): Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece) Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece) 1" spade bit ($8.98) 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece) 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece) Free/on-hand items: Scrap wood (2x4) Power drill and drill bits Adjustable wrench and socket wrench Deck screws Total: $32.96 CAD
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    Janja Garnbret, Sorato Anraku, and Jakob Schubert are clear crowd favorites. But there are plenty of others who could snag gold. https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/underdogs-sport-climbing-paris-olympics/